North Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock recon TR 6/1/08

Scott (nutjob) and I decided to give this route a try. We could only go on a Sunday and both having to work Monday morning we decided in a fit of rationality that we would not have an epic. The climb is rated 10a in the Reid guide but a friend had told me the first 5.9 section is at least 10b and probably the technical crux. Mr. Baba also said in a thread a while ago that the route was 10b/c. We started climbing at 5:50.

Here’s a picture of the first pitch.
I lead this short pitch. The idea was if it was very easy I would just keep going and we’d simul-climb the first three pitches. P2 and P3 are both rated class 4. However, it was just interesting enough that I set up a quick belay on a tree. Scott soon took off on the P2 and 3, which we did simul.

Here’s a pic somewhere on this part.

Lower Cathedral Rock

Here’s a picture looking up P4. This was a fun and varied 5.7.

There is some beautiful golden rock in this area.

Here’s a picture of P5. there is a long class two ledge that turns upward into some scrappy but fun 5.6. It ends on top of a large pedestal that is large enough for many people could camp on.

We hadn’t been pushing very hard but still we finished the first five pitches in two and a half hours. The next pitch was reported to have the crux lieback. It starts with a small traverse with exposure as you leave the pedestal. At the end of the traverse you climb up to the crux. I didn’t get a picture of this section but the climbing before and after is pretty cool. I aided the lieback section by stepping up in sling a couple of times.
Here’s a picture looking down at Scott on the traverse.

Here’s a picture looking up from the P6 belay.
There are a few 5.9 moves right off the belay that will land you on the belayer if you pop. This definitely makes it more interesting for both climbers. The Roper guide breaks this pitch into two and we found out why. After the 5.9 you are soon swimming in an oak bush for about fifteen or twenty feet and then climb what Roper calls an easy chimney. This “easy” chimney will catch your attention. It also kind of winds around and we got the rope stuck. Scott anchored the rope and I self belayed for a time while he rapped down and cleaned a bunch of pieces. By the time he ascended back up, put me on belay and I cleaned the pitch it was 12:00. We decided to have a leisurely lunch and think things over. We were on huge Tree Ledge.

Here’s a picture of Scott on tree ledge.

We decided to climb one more pitch and then rap. The next pitch goes up and right on some easy flakes to 5.7 lieback. This lieback is steeper and more sustained than the 5.7 liebacks on West Country and P4 of EB of MC. I had a little bit of consternation when I kicked a badly placed piece out and was briefly looking at a 30 foot fall. A better placement was available a little higher, thank God!

Here’s a picture looking up toward the P8 belay.

Partners in climb!

Here’s me rapping this pitch.

The rapping went uneventfully. I had the 7 mil in the pack but the 65 meter single rope rappels worked fine. There are rap station galore. We backed most of them up with new slings. Mr. El Capitan kept his eye on us to make sure we were OK.

Here’s a picture of me about to come back across the traverse to the pedestal.
There is a bolt with a sling you can see above and in front of me on the corner. It’s not needed on the climb up and so was a bit of a mystery but it’s nice to grab on the rappel. Mystery solved. We got back to the car with plenty of daylight. Green enchiladas at El Agave rounded out the day.
See you on the rock.
Zander