Trip Report
Nature learns to prance
Monday March 19, 2012 12:10pm
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As you may know, Nature has moved to Denver. As such, it was time to introduce him to Eldorado Canyon. And what better route for an intro to prancing than the classic Bastille Crack? (officially 5.7, 5 pitches)
We started climbing at the Boulder appropriate hour of 11am. It's north-facing after all. We planned to do it in two long pitches, combining 1-3 and 4-5 as is generally recommended; tho none of us had done the route before, so all we could do was hope it worked out. As there was inexplicably nobody on the most popular route in Eldo, Nature got right into things:
The official crux of the route is right off the ground. Getting from the right flake to the left.
Nature made quick work of that and continued up the crack.
He blew past the chains at the top of the first pitch, enjoying the 5.7 fun
I took a step across the road so I could get a nice all inclusive shot
The fun just never stopped
And soon he was almost at the top of the official 3rd pitch (a bit higher than this photo.) The ends of the ropes just touched the ground so we could tie in.
I led up from here through easy, but sort of awkward blocks and a nice chimney. Getting to the top rewarded us with some welcome sun.
There was some exposure on the descent
The three of us did a leisurely ~ 2:45 car to car and booked it on back to Southern Sun for some good food and beer.
Welcome to Colorado, Nature!
Forest
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About the Author Forest is a trad climber from Lafayette, CO. |
Comments
Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 12:54pm PT
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It's a good route, eh? I recall that I found the first 20' a little thought provoking, with no pro and the only less than perfect rock on the route. I admit though, I'm disproportionately whimpy on the first moves of almost any climb.
Pigeons in the crack?
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 19, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
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I hate climbers.
Especially the ones that are,....well....climbing.
Or prancing as it may be.
Me jealous.
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
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Great pics -- they really communicate the vibe.
Never been there before, these shots make me want to go prancin' too!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
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Good times on a classic climb! Thanks!
Careful Nature, prancing may seem innocent, but it has been known to lead to full blown Greenie-hood! Also be careful around the sirens; Morrison and flagstaff mtn....
And check out boulder canyon, the Umphslot is moaning your name...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
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You should have sent him up Outer Space for dessert!
Boy likes gettin' all blow'd out on the pumpage.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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Did he try to get you to stop at a lot of roadside espresso stands on your way to and from?
When we took him climbing up in the PNW he seemed to be more interested in naked baristas than in the actual climbing. Of course we made him bust his ass on hard climbs in 95-degree heat and 100% humidity, so maybe being more interested in the baristas wasn't unreasonable. No prancing up 5.7s like you guys allowed him to do.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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sweet!
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Bowser
Social climber
Durango CO
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
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Great route and great pics! Good job guys!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 19, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
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What, you mean he didn't do the Northcutt start????
hee hee hee. . .
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Mill Valley, Ca
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Mar 19, 2012 - 02:36pm PT
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He blew past the chains at the top of the first pitch, enjoying the 5.7 fun
Such a savage!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Mar 19, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
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Prancer!!
Good for you Doug. But you're still an Eldo Prancer.
Blame it on Russ. He has me hating.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Mar 19, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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good. good.
though prancing is not always so graceful.
the grace has it's place
upon plywood stages.
bloody them knuckles now.
scuff the knees.
scab the ankles.
that rock is too bald.
giveth some of your scalp.
i don't know dance.
i stand nekind all the time,
save for a bandaid upon my middle finger,
of which i issue to all the world,
both concrete and sandstone.
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cowpoke
climber
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
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always evokes a mix of pleasure and jealousy seeing pics of that beautiful eldo rock. really looking forward to some front range time this summer. thanks for the tr!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Mar 19, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
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Nice work.
Prod.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Mar 19, 2012 - 07:21pm PT
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I need to do this route again; after all, it's only been 32 years since I did my only ascent of the Bastille Crack.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
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Broke, I've got you by a few - first and last '74. I'd never done such
a greasefest. I felt like it was a warmup for a greased pig wrasslin'
contest. Were the locals smearing Crisco in that crack to try and scare
away the touroids? Well, I guess it worked in my case.
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Zander
climber
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Mar 19, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
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That be some nice prancin'.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Mar 19, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
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Hey Broken,
Gdt your ass down here. I have not been on it since 89, and Christa has never done it.
Prod.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 19, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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'77 or '78 for me.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 19, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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I was headed in to do it in the late 90s when my partner said "Can you look out the door and see if anyone's coming beside us?" (her passenger-side mirror was missing). So I opened the door, looked out, said "Nope, you're clear", then broke the little toe on my right foot when I closed the door. Yeah. I was wearing sandals and the door on her truck weighed about 9,000 pounds.
We soloed some 5.2s that I could get up in my sandals, but that was it. My one and only climbing trip to eldo ended before it even started. But then, I'm not much for prancing anyway.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 19, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
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Nice!!! You have to get on the classics! Got on it in late June '92 and then went back a few days (pic below of my friend Tim) later to partner up for it with a friend who happened to be in town at the same time (after we'd done a lap on the Petit Grepon and then gotten rained out for Lumpy). Finally did it again a few years back with the two pitch option. Can easily do it in one pitch and just simulclimb as well. Always fun!
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KitKat
Trad climber
Strawberry
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Mar 20, 2012 - 05:28am PT
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Well Douggie... I'm sure you still like espresso and Tool, but 5.7 prancin'? C'mon now... You can do way better!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Mar 20, 2012 - 09:07am PT
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but 5.7 prancin'? C'mon now... You can do way better!
I didn't say it first....
Prod.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 20, 2012 - 09:49am PT
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Love that route, rock, and canyon. BC was one of my first multi-pitch climbs and was my first roped-solo back in 75. It was a real treat a couple of years ago be able to fly in to Denver, drive straight up there and rope solo it again after decades of being away. It was like going back in a time machine to my very long gone youth. Other than the new guard station, bathrooms, bridge, and all the shacks on the way in doubling in size, the place was eerily unchanged by time right down to the sunlight through the dust from the road. I bet Ivy Baldwin and old man Fowler's ghosts still roam the place as well.
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philo
climber
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Mar 24, 2012 - 01:27pm PT
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Mar 24, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
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What a way to get introduced to Prancin'.
Anyone up for Prancin' today?
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philo
climber
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Mar 24, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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Today is beautiful I wish i could but I have to make shine while the hay suns.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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went prancing two weekends in a row and two days in a row.
PapaJoto visited this weekend from Santa Fe. Nothing stellar to report. Did the best 5.6 pitch ever (Kari cruised it :-) and finished on an 11b that has incredible moves. Dandi-Line is a good route.
my toes are twinkling....
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