Trip Report
Nantina Point FA Darkness Falls
Tuesday November 29, 2011 12:33pm
Here's another one Kevin Ditzler and I did in Febuary of last year.

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This was our second attempt on the North Face. We skied in and started climbing a few hours later.

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After third classing as far as we could we got the ropes out.

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After a few pitches we called it a day and chopped out a ledge for a few hours of sleep. The next day several steep pitches of mixed and ice took us to a large rock roof that went at A2/A3.

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We bivied just below the aid section.

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Here's a shot of the aid pitch that seemed to take forever. All we had was three bird beaks and three copper heads. I had to back clean a few times. After the aid pitch things eased up a little and it got dark again.

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Late in the evening we finally made it to the ridge crest. We were able to unrope there and third class to the summit. We decended to the col between Nantina and Kiliak and the back down to the dishwater drainage.

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Darkness Falls took us forever, around 68 hours round trip and goes at WI6 M6 A2/3.


  Trip Report Views: 1,974
johnkelley
About the Author
johnkelley is a climber from Anchorage Alaska.

Comments
jahil

Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
  Nov 29, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
Nice - that looks awesome ! Thanks for posting.

steve
Murzerker

climber
Away from Walhalla
  Nov 29, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
Looks like an awesome time. I'm getting cold just lookin' at those pics.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Nov 29, 2011 - 02:04pm PT
Nantina Point, Beneign Peak, and Mt. Yukla are all in the Chugach State Park right outside of Anchorage AK. I know the Chugach is better know for skiing but it's an alpine climbing paradise.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 29, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
You guys are some sick puppies. Thank you for posting more alpine routes on here! Love it!
bergbryce

climber
East Bay, CA
  Nov 29, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
These are all very impressive.
These peaks are within spitting distance of Cook Inlet (sea level) and soar to 7,000'+. Eagle River and Eklutna River valleys, within an hour of Anchorage. Dude is killin' it.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  Nov 29, 2011 - 06:23pm PT
I thought that the stairwell scene in the movie was memorable.

Is the route just right of center in the first photo?
Prod

Trad climber
  Nov 29, 2011 - 06:47pm PT
Sweet.

Prod.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Nov 29, 2011 - 07:49pm PT
Holy Mark Twight Batman! You two are in full Kiss or Kill mode up there. Please stop the lame understatement of your trip reports and give us the horrid, gory alpine details! We want to hear about your suffering, your emotional catharsis and your alpine sanctification. You boys are in some serious terrain up there. Way to get after it. Thanks!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 29, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
Niiiiice Iiiiiiice!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Nov 29, 2011 - 09:00pm PT
hey there say, nice trip share...

can't see the pics, yet, so i can't comment, but i sure appreaciate the share...
:)
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 29, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
Badd AZZ you burlmeister!
Thanks for the cold freeze!
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