Trip Report
My Battle of Midway
Wednesday August 18, 2010 2:28pm
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The healing process has been a slow one for me, or seemingly slow. Shasta tells me that I have been healing quickly but when your the one healing it never seems fast enough. I had been to the doctor several times and the news never really got better although thankfully all the injuries cropping up were not life threatening. Still, hearing I had a torn supraspinatus and a ball of muscle pressing on the nerves in my neck on top of a bit of a compressed vertebrae was beginning to get demoralizing. My vocal cord is still paralyzed and my thyroid just does what it wants.
The time for moping around has however past and dwelling on injures doesn't make them go away! So a trip to Washington for my brothers wedding is my own specific style of Rehab. We first started with a whitewater rafting trip down the White Salmon River. Our guide was funny and went in the water more then anyone else. Also she said things like "Before the dam the fish used to pollute the river with their dead bodies".
My arm felt surprisingly good and I was excited for what the next few days would bring. We had arranged a climbing trip to Leavenworth. I was nervous as I still had pain in my neck, back, and shoulder and I wasn't sure if I could even hold myself up. Exciting!
Our friend decided at Castle Rock as it had some easier routes and I didn't think that climbing on a 5.10 would be really a good idea! And it was decided that Midway Direct an old Beckey Route from 1948 would be the test. We didn't anticipate it being 100 degrees and in the sun.
Ryan C. tied up and lead the first pitch as his brother chatted happily. We were all glad to be out. He quickly got to the first pitch and I went next nervously trying to place my feet seemingly above my head so that I wouldn't have to use my arms just my legs but I had a backpack on with my camera so I couldn't lean against the wall behind and ended up doing some pullups through that section. Hurt a bit but not to much, encouraging information. Halfway up I remembered how to climb and it begin to feel good, moving slowly and carefully. My confidence grew quickly and I could feel what I have been missing this last month and a half. Tyler followed after as Ryan and I baked away in the sun.
Tyler C. following the first pitch of Midway.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
The river teased us as we didn't bring near enough water. We expected to just do the first pitch and then toprope some others as I didn't know what I was ready for but we were all excited to do the full route so we just continued on without even discussing it.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
The two happy Cronk brothers.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
We continued on and finished the upper pitches quickly before our skin turned to leather under the mean red goddess. The river all the while teased our thirst buds.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Shasta was the last to come up and she brought a surprise with her.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Can anyone spot what shouldn't be?
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
We were all smiles!
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
After the climb we were all happy for another great day. Although the sun had burned the climb right out of us and the river was winning. What were we to do other then jump in! So we went down to the car ran across the road and jumped in the Wanatchee.
Overall my injures didn't hurt to bad. A few times I noticed it more then others but mostly I just noticed how weak I was. My wrists didn't seem to even want to hold together! I am glad to be back. It was an easy route but sometimes the biggest battles are fought on easy ground.
Thanks to everyone for their well wishes!
Shasta took lots of great photos as well as many others from our trip to Washington (which is only half over) and can be seen here! (Will be up soon):
http://shasterblaster.smugmug.com/United-States/Washington/Leavenworth-August-2010/
Trip link photo:
Prezwoodz
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About the Author Prezwoodz is a climber of all types from Alaska |
Comments
Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Aug 18, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
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Nice! way to get out there despite it all. Midway is a good route.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 18, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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Prezwoodz!
Glad to hear you're on the mend. I hope the voice
thing gets better for you--will you need surgery?
Thanks for sharing!!!!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Aug 18, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
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Right on, Prez. Glad you're on the mend.
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Paulina
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 18, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
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Way to go for it! Midway is super-high on my list. In fact, I was going to go there yesterday, but given the forecast opted for Index and some shade instead. So just missed you. Sounds like you had fun despite the heat. Cheers!
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Author's Reply
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Aug 18, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
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Thanks for replying! It is great to be healing and I am super glad to be back on some rock. Now once I get back to Alaska I hope I can get back on writing the guide!
Kelsey
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Aug 18, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
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Prez! Glad to see you are back enjoying the rock again. Healing can take a surprisingly long time, but it helps to "push it" when you can.
Best Wishes!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Aug 18, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
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Good to see you back out there and keep on healing !
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Aug 18, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
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Nice. Isn't it true how when you are the one healing, it goes REALLY slowly?
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 18, 2010 - 11:05pm PT
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Good work! I'm glad that I wasn't the only one fighting injury. hang tough and keep going strong. We're all with you, wishing you the best for a complete recovery.
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Zander
climber
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Aug 18, 2010 - 11:50pm PT
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Allright Prezwoodz,
Way to hang in there. Injuries can be such sweet sorrow!
Looks like a classic route!
Zander
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Aug 19, 2010 - 12:22am PT
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Way to go and good luck with the Guide Book.
let us know when its done.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Aug 19, 2010 - 02:09am PT
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Very cool! I'm planning on being back on Midway on Monday morning. So far, it's been great with a 7:30 or 8:00am start. Are y'all gonna be up there around then? I think my Link-Cam is still at the 2nd pitch belay ledge for the regular Midway route.
P.S.--What's with the knot near Shasta's end of the rope? ;-)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Aug 19, 2010 - 11:21am PT
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Good job Prez!
Leavenworth is pretty hard to beat eh?
So glad to hear that you're on the road to the heights, which I can relate to. My mangled finger is no joke, but it pales next to your story.
I wish you all the luck and happy climbing in the world!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Aug 19, 2010 - 11:53am PT
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Thanks for that update on your situation and for recalling memories I have of doing that route with my wife shortly after moving to Seattle 30(!) years ago. Especially the part about being up high hot and thirsty and hearing, or imagining hearing the shouts of happy bathers in the waters below. For that particular river it would probably be screams of shock at the cold but there have been other climbs and other swimmers far below which your TR has brought to mind and so on into memory metropolis. Not just a lane.
You are really good with the TR and the camera and thanks for agreeing to let me put some of your Alaska images on my screensaver a while back.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 19, 2010 - 12:27pm PT
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Just for the curiousity of theose unfamiliar with the area, what's the YDS grade on that route? I'm now looking for moderate climbs while rehabbing, myself!
Rodger
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Author's Reply
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Aug 19, 2010 - 01:52pm PT
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Heya everyone!
Feel free to use my images for a screensaver anytime MH2. Its great to know some of my images might be looked at later!
Brokedownclimber - The difficulty is 5.6 and the first pitch is the hardest so its really not bad at all. If its sandbagged I'd say you could make it 5.8 or so if you decided not to stem at all. Perfect for some rehab!
mooser - Thats really funny about your cam! I tried for about 12 minutes to fenagle it gently out of the crack with a knife since I didn't have a nut tool. I didn't want to destroy it in the attempt though so I gave up and moved on. Was still there when we went! Won't be climbing anymore this trip though because of the wedding.
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TripCheq
Mountain climber
Pennsylvania
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Aug 19, 2010 - 02:41pm PT
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Glad you're back on the rock. I think Shasta is smiling because you weren't trying to catch boulders!
Nice TR.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Aug 19, 2010 - 03:20pm PT
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Prezwood: I tried for longer than that with a nut-tool, and no go. It's like it was taunting me!
Brokedown: Are you in the area and in need of a partner up there?
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Meridian
Trad climber
Seattle, wa
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Aug 20, 2010 - 10:35pm PT
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Hey chief!
I had a blast myself, even if it was a bit hot. And by a bit hot, I mean I drank a gallon of water and a liter of Gatorade before I could pee... I think the river was the best part of the day.
It's always fun climbing with you guys. Any time you're in the area, just give me a ring. I can always be convinced to go climbing!
Next time your in town and feeling better, we can step it up a notch and I'll take you out to Index.
Hopefully catch you and Shasta in Anchorage for some ice climbing this winter. :)
Best Regards,
Ryan
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Nov 18, 2010 - 08:14pm PT
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Thanks!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nov 18, 2010 - 10:09pm PT
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Nice Prez!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Nov 18, 2010 - 11:21pm PT
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MH2: DAng, you got that right. Thirty years ago for me, too. Jeez. What a great little crag, however. So, really, I WAS 18 once?
BAd
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 19, 2010 - 01:26am PT
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hey there say, prezwoodz.... i missed this... though i was able to share some encouragement on one of your other threads/posts...
thanks for sharing your adventure here, as you press onward and upward...
god bless...
:)
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freerider
climber
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Nov 19, 2010 - 09:30am PT
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super nice!
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