Trip Report
Mt St Helena, Far Side -fixer upper/f.a.'r!

by drunkenmaster
Sunday March 14, 2010 10:28pm
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Jerry, Ken, Harrison and Moji at the Far Side.
Jerry, Ken, Harrison and Moji at the Far Side.
Credit: drunkenmaster
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Jerry, Harrison and Ken fixing the old anchor on top of Shute-Mills.
Jerry, Harrison and Ken fixing the old anchor on top of Shute-Mills.
Credit: drunkenmaster
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Eric does second lead ascent of Cereal Killer (5.9)!
Eric does second lead ascent of Cereal Killer (5.9)!
Credit: drunkenmaster
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Chris Summit fixing the smashed lead bolts/hangers on Feelin Your Oats...
Chris Summit fixing the smashed lead bolts/hangers on Feelin Your Oats.
Credit: drunkenmaster
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Jerry is pissed off that no one else showed up to help. and he's also ...
Jerry is pissed off that no one else showed up to help. and he's also doing some trail work (its a mighty nice trail now i must admit)
Credit: drunkenmaster
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Drunkenmaster does first lead ascent of Synchronicity (5.11)!
Drunkenmaster does first lead ascent of Synchronicity (5.11)!
Credit: drunkenmaster
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Far Side View
Far Side View
Credit: drunkenmaster
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check out some more pics and vids on my blog;

http://summitorplummet.blogspot.com/

Huge thanks and great job to Jerry for organizing this and a special thanks to Greg Barnes and the ASCA for all the help with hardware. And of course many thanks to Ken, Harrison, Moji and Eric for helping out as well - Great Job!!!!

  Trip Report Views: 5,221
drunkenmaster 		About the Author
drunkenmaster is a social climber from santa rosa.

Comments
Weaselface

Sport climber
Calistoga, CA
  Mar 14, 2010 - 12:11pm PT
Nice work, I love chief I will have to try the new routes. Thanks for fixing the bolts, I love all the routes out there and looking forward to all the new ones.
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Author's Reply  Mar 14, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
thanks. hope to see you out there sometime!
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
  Mar 15, 2010 - 01:39am PT
It was warmer in the desert ha ha, but good on ya for making it a better place!
Wagon Wheel is rad, I hope you make it out there, or maybe you have?
Another trip in April... you free?
Cool TR holmes,

5.11 FA on the new leg... wonderful!
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
  Mar 16, 2010 - 01:25am PT
Thanks you guys,
Sorry I missed it.
Jerry,
I'm a feared..........
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
  Mar 16, 2010 - 01:50am PT
Great work guys. How is the climbing out there on the Far Side?
So, when is the updated guidebook going to come out?

Keep up the excellent work.
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Author's Reply  Mar 16, 2010 - 03:05pm PT
thanks! Jerry deserves most of the credit for instigating it and getting the hardware from the ASCA. our new routes are fun as hell!

the most up to date guidebook is;
California Roadtrip A Climbers Guide Northern California
by Tom Slater and I.
http://summitorplummet.blogspot.com/2009/09/california-roadtrip-climbers-guide.html

or in fall 2010 the new guide to Bay Area Climbing will be coming out from Supertopo and I.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
  Mar 26, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
Have to bump this... right on guys...
Jerry Dodrill

climber
@dodrillphoto
  Mar 26, 2010 - 06:43pm PT
Ha, wow. Didn't see this before. I do look like a cereal killer. I should note the ASCA did not supply hardware for the new routes, just fixing up the old ones.

re-post from the other thread:
Here is an old bolt that was placed about ten years ago above Feelin' Your Oats. Somebody went crazy with a crowbar and seriously messed it up, then smashed all the lead bolts flat too.

And the ASCA 1/2" stainless replacement anchor we put in:

All routes along the lower tier now have similar anchors.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Mar 26, 2010 - 07:37pm PT
Climbing in wine country I take it?
St. Helena, I think they get good fogs for Pinot Noir.

That rock looks grippy, a little sharp maybe?
Thanks for the link to the guidebook!
(I won't tell anybody)
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