Trip Report
Mt Emerson, SE Face
Saturday July 7, 2012 1:35am
I hiked in planning on climbing Emerson and Humphries. When I was getting my permit, the young ranger said "you can probably hike in tonight if you hurry".
I grabbed some food at the Mobil Mart and drove down 395 to Bishop and up 168 to North Lake.

I got out of the car in shorts and tshirt and was immediately devoured by mosquitos. I jumped back in and changed to long pants and long sleeves. I hiked quickly, no reason to dawdle with the ravenous hordes. The light was fading when I got to a campsite at the base of Emerson.

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Light fades on the peaks across from Mt. Emerson and the Piute Crags.
Light fades on the peaks across from Mt. Emerson and the Piute Crags.
Credit: spyork
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In the morning I made Oatmeal with Mosquitos. I looked at the beta from MountainProject and decided I was camped right below the approach up the scree.

The lower face was supposed to be the start of the chimney, but I couldnt tell from down below.

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Credit: spyork
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As I got closer, the two cracks became obvious. My goal was the left crack on the lower face.

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Left hand crack is the route.
Left hand crack is the route.
Credit: spyork
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The crux was supposed to be the 5.4 moves at the beginning of the chimney. Everything was dry at the bottom, apparently the route can be slippery after a wet winter.

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Credit: spyork
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Credit: spyork
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Credit: spyork
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Here is the water crux, this is often wet based on other reports I read.
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Dry as a bone!
Dry as a bone!
Credit: spyork
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Looking over at the Piute Crags.
Looking over at the Piute Crags.
Credit: spyork
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Credit: spyork
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I think this is Lamarck Col off in the distance.
I think this is Lamarck Col off in the distance.
Credit: spyork
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The rock in the next picture is actually pretty sound. It looks like loose plates in this shot.
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Credit: spyork
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Getting close to the ridgeline now. Looking back down.
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Credit: spyork
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There are some really wild formations up there.
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Credit: spyork
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Credit: spyork
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You can see down past Piute Crags all the way to North Lake
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Credit: spyork
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Looking up at the peak and along the ridge. The beta from MtnProject said to go around the Gendarmes, and I wasted time trying right and left, and sometimes just went over the top.
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Credit: spyork
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Looking up canyon to where I was hoping to camp, Piute Lake.
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Looking up canyon at Emerson Lake and Piute Lake
Looking up canyon at Emerson Lake and Piute Lake
Credit: spyork
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I found the descent, went down and packed up my camp and hiked up to Piute Lake. I was hoping to cross Piute Pass and camp in Humphries basin, but I was tired when I got to Piute Lake, so I stopped, setup camp and made dinner.

Moonrise over a nearby peak:
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Credit: spyork
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Sunset shot, trying to get the moon and Alpenglow on a nearby peak.
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Credit: spyork
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  Trip Report Views: 2,695
spyork
About the Author
spyork is a social climber from A prison of my own creation.

Comments
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jul 7, 2012 - 01:38am PT
rock hopping in the Sierra,
a wonderful way to travel!

thanks for the dispatch!
Zander

climber
  Jul 7, 2012 - 04:18am PT
I've always wanted to do that route. Woo Hoo!
spyork

Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
Author's Reply  Jul 7, 2012 - 10:34am PT
I got to the base of Humphries the next morning and the magic was gone. So I just shot some more pics and stumbled around. Glad you liked it!

Steve
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 8, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
Nice steve, looks like a great ramble!!!!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 8, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
Very nice! I've always wanted to climb that route.

Thanks for the TR.

John
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Jul 8, 2012 - 07:08pm PT
Who knew there were chossaholics in the Sierras? As a recovering one
I approve of this thread.

ps
Riley, you would be well advised to follow Croft's advice.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 9, 2012 - 11:13am PT
Very nice Steve. I gotta get out rambling.
snakefoot

climber
Nor Cal
  Jul 9, 2012 - 11:38am PT
bump for the sierras...
Fletcher

Boulder climber
Institute of Better Bouldering-DirtbagDad Division
  Jul 9, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
Nice… I hope to get on that route later this summer. Tried in October a few years back and weird weather turned us back once we got tot he start. It started snowing. When we got back to the car, the sun was out. Went to the Happies instead and did the beanie thing. Remained stormy looking throughout the day, so we made the right decision. One of these days, I have some good shots of weather moving in over time above Piute Pass. One of these days…

Thanks for the share!
Eric
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 9, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
Oh hell yeah!

Love those moon shots!
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Jul 9, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
This looks like fun ! Have been putting it off for far too long.
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