Got out yesterday to Bald Rock Dome in the Feather River Canyon. Climbed Moroccan Roll, a 5 pitch 5.7 (though really a 4 pitch 5.6 R in my opinion). Must say I can't believe this place is not more popular. It is absolutely beautiful, the granite is very positive with awesome dikes all over it. I guess it used to have some access issues, but it was actually easy to find, only 45 minutes from Oroville to the trail and then a 20 minute hike to the top. The only downside is the majority of the climbs are R rated, which is really too bad because there are a handful of 5.10's out there I would love to get on but can't because falling is not an option (and I suck so I fall on 5.10). But oh well, enough complaining, here is the report. And the pictures really don't do it justice.

Moroccan Roll is pretty much entirely a face climb with just a couple of cracks/seams and the occasional glorious dike. Paul led the first pitch. A few face moves lead to a short crack with some decent cam placements. Then a 20 foot face to the last piece of pro before a 30 foot run out to the anchor. Weren't sure what kind of anchors we would find but all the bolts on the climb have been replaced and are bomber.



I think the dome is about 600 feet? But the base of the dome is hundreds of feet above the canyon floor so it gives it a great view of the canyon and river below.


Pitch 2 starts with a seam with barley a nut placement, followed by some of the cleanest and funnest face climbing I have ever done. The first and only bolt is roughly 50 feet off the anchor, with another 40-50 feet to go. Thankfully the rock is so featured and the climbing easy, so falling wasn't even a thought. The pitch wanders to the right of Paul in the picture below and comes back left up the obvious dike. So fun.


Pitch 3 is a cool pitch with a few cam placements behind a fairly positive flake near the beginning and a short but sweet arching crack towards the end with another awesome dike in between (yes, I like adjectives). No bolts on the pitch, natural anchor.


Pitch 4 is a wandering pitch and nearly takes a whole 60 meter rope. It traverses up and right to the start of a dike that runs up and left for the majority of the pitch. This dike is the mother of them all. You can pretty much walk up it, which is good considering the run out after the only bolt near the beginning of the dike is easily 100 feet with huge pendulum potential. Probably 5.3/5.4, but got a little nervous towards the end as I heard Paul yell up "about 20 feet of rope left" and the anchor was still nowhere in sight. Decided to just keep following the dike and was relieved to find a bolt that was on the route Right of the Groove with the anchor hiding itself behind an outcropping not far above. Quick tangent: This bolted anchor has rap rings, as do all the anchors for Right of the Groove, which is by far the best way to the bottom. We hiked down a 3rd/4th class gully, which sucked, especially since Paul is 2 months removed from an ACL repair and had to move slowly.



Before topping out we decided to rap down one pitch of Right of the Groove and climb it just for kicks.


Paul led the 5.9 pitch, and considering it had more bolts on it than the entirety of Moroccan Roll (including anchors!) it was definitely still our speed. Started in a corner with no hands smearing and finished with railroad track dikes. Loved it!



The 5th and final pitch is nothing really, 5.1/5.2, 1 bolt run up to the last anchor (which is the start of the rap route). This anchor would be kinda hard to find from the top without knowing where it is because there is still a little slab hiking after it.



In summary: The majority of the climb is 5.4/5.5, especially the long run outs. So while there is huge fall potential, the climbing is fun and easy. Just don't fall. The dome is simply incredible.


Cheers!

Mike