Trip Report
Moonlight Buttress and Zion
Sunday November 2, 2014 3:14pm
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Prepping fer the mighty Moonlight, note the designated PEE bottle unde...
Prepping fer the mighty Moonlight, note the designated PEE bottle under the dogs tail. Being of advanced age it's nice to have a pee bottle handy at night so as not to rock the portaledge and wake my partner. Getting old is son of a gun.
Credit: Batrock
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Our objective, Moonlight Buttress.   Earlier in the year we got pushed...
Our objective, Moonlight Buttress. Earlier in the year we got pushed off the route by Andy Kirkpatrick and an army of BBC riggers, this time we started up with nobody on the wall, that didn't last long, damn Germans!!
Credit: Batrock
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Fording the mighty Virgin River.
Fording the mighty Virgin River.
Credit: Batrock
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Cleaning the second pitch, I think, they all look the same to me.
Cleaning the second pitch, I think, they all look the same to me.
Credit: Batrock
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My partner Curt Lyons leads the third pitch up to the Rocker Block whe...
My partner Curt Lyons leads the third pitch up to the Rocker Block where we would bivy for the night. We got a late start.
Credit: Batrock
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Curt eating one of three cans of Ravioli we brought for the entire cli...
Curt eating one of three cans of Ravioli we brought for the entire climb. Due to some misunderstanding we left our food back at the car. So for the entire climb we had the ravioli and a handful of Jolly Ranchers. Oh, and coffee, I never forget the co
Credit: Batrock
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Curt wondering what that stench is and where is it coming from?   It t...
Curt wondering what that stench is and where is it coming from? It turns out that early that morning two teams of Germans had gotten an early start and were hot on our heals. Since we were taking our time waking up we let one team pass, they were free
Credit: Batrock
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Looking down the awesome Grand Dihedral pitch.   Endless orange and ye...
Looking down the awesome Grand Dihedral pitch. Endless orange and yellow mastercams.
Credit: Batrock
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Curt leading out of the dihedral into the ugly squeeze chimney.
Curt leading out of the dihedral into the ugly squeeze chimney.
Credit: Batrock
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More great climbing and easy hauling.
More great climbing and easy hauling.
Credit: Batrock
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Credit: Batrock
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Because we waited and let the Germans pass we ended up getting stuck a...
Because we waited and let the Germans pass we ended up getting stuck another night on the wall which was pretty cool and worth the views.
Credit: Batrock
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The next morning we had just one more long pitch combining the last tw...
The next morning we had just one more long pitch combining the last two pitches into one 200 footer. My favorite pitch of the entire route.
Credit: Batrock
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On top and enjoying the view.
On top and enjoying the view.
Credit: Batrock
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Curt and I had not seen or heard from each other in over 20 years. We used to climb together at Mount Williamson and did many first ascents together there back in the early 90's. A little over a year ago we got in contact with each other through the magic of the interwebs and hatched a plan to climb a big wall. We tried El Cap but due to a family death had to bail from halfway up the Triple Direct. A few months later we got stuck behind a slow party on Spaceshot and bailed after running out of water. This time we were not going down, we had plenty of water and plenty of time. It has been great getting to know each other again and plan on many more walls in the future.

Heck, if those old farts Hudon and Jones can do it we can too.

  Trip Report Views: 4,751
Batrock
About the Author
Batrock is a trad climber from Burbank and knows all the rad climbing in the greater Burbank area.

Comments
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Nov 2, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
Awesome, getting er done!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 2, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
Ravioli, jolly ranchers and Coffee! Classic
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
  Nov 2, 2014 - 06:02pm PT
Well guys, so far I've gotten a DNF on Touchstone and SpaceShot. All that's needed is another flailure, on icon Moonlight Buttress, and we're good for the Triple Crown!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
  Nov 2, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
love the Tr batrock!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Nov 2, 2014 - 07:07pm PT
Very cool.

It's still fun.
WBraun

climber
  Nov 2, 2014 - 07:08pm PT
Moonlight Buttress is an American classic like Astroman ......
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Nov 2, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
Nice. TFPU.
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
  Nov 3, 2014 - 08:03am PT
Done in style... er, my style.
cuvvy

Sport climber
arkansas
  Nov 3, 2014 - 08:29am PT
Looks magnificent! Glad you enjoyed the ride.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Nov 3, 2014 - 11:38am PT
Thanks for the excellent TR.

John
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Nov 3, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
man i hate parks,,last time in zion all the kids were on spring break,dogs had zones,the windows seem to be getting smaller,,,I know stop your whineing,and get off the freeway
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Author's Reply  Nov 3, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
BTW, I was in Zion just the week before I did Moonlight with my family and the park was jammed. This was the first of October, we figured all the kids are back in school and the park would be somewhat quiet, far from it. All the shuttles were jammed and the visitors center lot was full by early morning. When I went back a week later to climb it was no different. It's still mellow when you compare it to Yosemite and the fact that they dont allow vehicles in the canyon helps a lot to keep it that way.
When I went with the family my son and I did Led By Sheep on Aries Butte, it's a great easy climb on the parks east side and well worth doing.







Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Author's Reply  Nov 8, 2014 - 10:59am PT
Anyone been on Prodigal Son recently? Prodigal seems like a good choice for a solo except for maybe the upper few pitches.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 8, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
Nice job batty!!!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Nov 8, 2014 - 05:56pm PT
Heck, if those old farts Hudon and Jones can do it we can too.

Yup, exactly our point! Good Work!
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Author's Reply  Nov 8, 2014 - 06:15pm PT
Thanks Mark, I followed you and Max in the mags back in the day, I think it was Mountain magazine that you wrote Art of the State or State of the Art? I was very inspired. I have really been inspired recently with your big wall come back and it's motivated me to get out and try something new and push myself in new ways. I'm not new to climbing but am to big walls and have to say I'm hooked and look forward to more.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Author's Reply  Apr 12, 2015 - 07:53pm PT
A bump in light of all the Moonlight drama.
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