Trip Report
Moonlight Buttress Rope Solo Winter Ascent February 4-6 2012
Wednesday February 15, 2012 3:54pm
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JSpencerV
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About the Author JSpencerV is a trad climber from Santa Monica, CA. |
Comments
Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Feb 15, 2012 - 04:48pm PT
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Sorry about the sickness.
Great TR and a proud accomplishment!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 15, 2012 - 05:09pm PT
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Nice job--thanks for sharing!!!!
(Did they ever figure out what was wrong with you)?
Hope you don't suffer from it again!
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JSpencerV
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Author's Reply
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Feb 16, 2012 - 01:26am PT
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Thanks for the support. They didn't figure out what was wrong- thought maybe it was just a really bad virus twice - which it could have been. But everything is normal now, which is good.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 16, 2012 - 02:18am PT
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Nice job. Looks like a great route. Did you have to free climb much?
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Feb 16, 2012 - 02:30am PT
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Nice man! Congrats!
Was this your second wall?
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JSpencerV
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Author's Reply
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Feb 16, 2012 - 02:45am PT
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Mike-the first pitch was some dirty 5.8 free climbing, but wasn't too bad. Along the route, I pulled a few easy free moves in between aid to gain extra ground. The final pitch was 5.7 for about 15 feet, so I paid out a bunch of slack and topped out, it was a little heady with the rope drag, darkness and poor fall potential; but not very hard. Mostly aid.
Paul-I've done NW face Half Dome, The Prow, The Nose, Lost Arrow Tip, 1/2 of Mount Watkins (bailed because bolt ladder was missing two bolts) and Moonlight Buttress before with partners. This was my first solo wall.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Feb 16, 2012 - 03:31am PT
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Very cool...good report.
Crazy random sickness!!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 16, 2012 - 05:30am PT
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hey there say, JSpencerV... thank you so very much for sharing your trip report...
:) nice to jump on late, like this, and find a new one...
edit: ooops, not to be rude, but i will have to read it later,
on the blog, as i am in the middle of a large project that needs to be getting done soon... :)
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John Mac
Trad climber
Breckenridge, CO
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:52am PT
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Well done. Love the Rope bags!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Newbury Park
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Feb 16, 2012 - 10:54am PT
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Very well done! What a spectacular adventure!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Feb 17, 2012 - 07:17pm PT
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Sweet!
Prod.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Feb 18, 2012 - 12:04am PT
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So cool!
Glad I could help!
What's next?
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JSpencerV
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Author's Reply
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Feb 20, 2012 - 04:54pm PT
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I'm not sure what's next..we shall see.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Feb 20, 2012 - 03:35pm PT
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Very cool, thanks!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Feb 20, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
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Ah, practicing my "Digging a Hole Motivational Program" by announcing your route ahead of time, eh?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 20, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
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Nice one dude!
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JSpencerV
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Author's Reply
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Feb 20, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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Mark- Haha. I am now keeping my next route top secret!
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Feb 20, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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winter? winter? is there a winter going on?
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Feb 20, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
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awesome shots!!! Well done dude!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Feb 23, 2012 - 02:01pm PT
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Jared, your old patient Scott Mossman here, glad to see how you are getting it done! Save your pennies, sounds like you're ready for Patagonia.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Feb 23, 2012 - 05:51pm PT
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Way to getter dun Jared!! Good seeing you in Ouray....wished we'd hit up Scottish Gullies with you. We were only able to get down to Grad School and New Funtier. Punters. :/
...bailed because bolt ladder was missing two bolts
Not to sound condescending bro but why didn't you "paste with haste"? Fill that hole and gun fer it!!
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JSpencerV
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Author's Reply
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Feb 24, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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Scott: Good to hear from you - hope things are well
Mooch: Great seeing you in ouray as well; such a fun trip. Funny story on mount watkins. My climbing partner had to duct tape his talon in the blown out bolt holes (there was still bolt remnants which made it more shallow) and was top stepping to reach the next bolt and was taking a lot of exciting 15 foot whippers. Still couldn't make it past; so he tried to pendulum to a 5.11 arete and still took more whippers. Then tried a tension traverse; that didn't work out. In lieu of a bolt kit, one year later, we came up with an idea (half jokingly)that may have worked:
I could stand on his shoulders while he is topped stepped on his aiders to get an extra 6 feet higher - Then make the mantle exit move and clip the anchors!
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Great job Jared! Thanks for the TR.
Wes
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Michael Nicholson
Big Wall climber
Thousand Oaks
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Mar 26, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
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Nice TR grats on your ascent!
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The route as seen from the loop road. Photo: Chris McNamara
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