Trip Report
Missing piton distress!
Friday August 1, 2014 8:47pm
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Climbed the route August 1st. Fun route, totally worth doing. Only problem was the .10a corner crack on the second pitch. On the topo it shows 2 fixed pitons in the upper part of the corner, but they were not there today. It wouldn't be such a problem except that corner crack flares/overhangs to the point it is hard to get anything else wedged in there that looks solid enough to hold a fall. Also, it works best to layback a bit making it hard to actually look around the corner to see how poorly your gear is set. Maybe some small offset cams would work? Anyway, it got more exciting than anticipated. I ended up face climbing around that crux on some very nice 5.8-ish knobs just to the right of the crack, but that was run out and left me with a ticklish leftward and downward traverse to get back on route.
duckdodger
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About the Author duckdodger is a social climber from Zephyr Cove. |
Comments
ruppell
climber
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LOL.
I climbed it about two weeks ago now. Didn't have a topo and also didn't have a problem. I thought it was one of the best Meadows routes I'd done regardless of grade. So it goes?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Two words: mono doigt.
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okie
Trad climber
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Someone should go do their Commie service and pound in the next larger size pegs to keep the topo honest. Might be fun...why not?
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ruppell
climber
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Yes. Make it just like Serenity. Bang the pins. I say we have a newbie aid climbing clinic. Teach then to aid on the finest free climbs. Who's in?
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Run it out. It is TM
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Those disappeared years ago, and no pitons are shown in the current Supertopo guide (2009). They were pretty sketchy to begin with, modern tiny cams feel more secure. They probably aren't any better, but at least you don't need a hammer to check them!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Use your feet.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Pitons are awesome.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Bolts are better!
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