Trip Report
Lost in the Sun, a new route on the Incredible Hulk (2011)
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Tuesday October 11, 2011 3:28pm
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Having climbing a few hulk routes and parts of others I was excited to add a new route over this past summer.
I had spied the line in 2010 and had already climbed but not freed the first pitch. Over July and August I cleaned and sent four of the five pitches. The crux is an open project and I expect it to go at 5.12- when I have more time next Hulk season.
Here is the story of Lost in the Sun:
http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2011/08/lost-in-the-sun-a-new-route-on-the-incredible-hulk/
Enjoy!
 Luke
cultureshock
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About the Author
cultureshock is a trad climber from Mountain View, CA. |
Comments
Port
Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden 🇸🇪
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Oct 11, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
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Fecking rad.
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Fish Finder
climber
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Oct 11, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
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nice work.
seems the incredible hulk is busting out at the seams!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Oct 11, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
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So what you're saying is any one of us should go steal the ffa from you? :) just kidding- thanks for sharing- can't wait to check it out
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zoom loco
Mountain climber
san diego ca
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Oct 11, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
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awesome. good vision, good work.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Author's Reply
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Oct 12, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
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More than anything I'm just curious to have people get on the route. The route links cool features which produces rewarding and thought provoking, despite not being as defined/singular as many of the other hulk routes. The bear hug crack transfer on pitch two was a great discovery! Also with two ropes or an 80m it's set up to rappel from the 5th pitch (details on mountainproject). Perfect for a half day.
I don't really believe in closed projects so go for the FFA if you want, it's super thin laybacking. It also is fun at 11c A0 if you aid through the crux. It should go down next summer if I can stay uninjured long enough (or some of the other FA party members do it).
Luke
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Author's Reply
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Oct 13, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
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Wandering may be accurate but that is part of the enjoyment of this line and the processes of climbing it. The route does follow rock features and doesn't have any "forced" blank sections. Being able to barely link together various dihedrals and work out the technical transitions is part of the fun. If you simply want endless jamming do Positive vibrations, a better, but less tricky route.
This route doesn't follow a singular line up the hulk, like many of the first routes, but I think the climbing is more fun than its aesthetic neighbor, the red dihedral.
No offense taken, my biased opinion is that the climbing is really fun!
Luke
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 13, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
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Nice one Luke. Good luck on freeing it!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Oct 13, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
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Awesome Job Luke, thanks for the community service!!!
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Author's Reply
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Sep 5, 2012 - 03:13pm PT
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Bump for Labor Day sendage!
Lost in the Sun saw the first lead of P3 and the first continuous ascent of the first 5 pitches this weekend.
Still awaits a complete ascent to the summit, and eventually an onsight.
The crux is around 12a for an onsight. The moves are very sequential so they feel easier once you've figured out the sequence.
A good half day route if you rap.
Enjoy!
Luke
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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The line looks very creative, but I saw one "Peter" in the comments. Kiss the FA goodbye.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Good job! I love the Hulk.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Bump for righeous FAs.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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I'm not worthy!
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Author's Reply
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Jun 13, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
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Thanks for the bump Will.
Hulk season should be in full effect now. I wonder if anyone will try Lost in the Sun.... Still waiting for a 2nd ascent and the first ascent to the summit. You even get a booty nut if you climb the 6th pitch :-D
Here is the story of the first continuous ascent of pitches 1-5:
http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2012/12/lost-in-the-sun-first-continuous-ascent/
Nice way to get in some pitches. Easy to rap with an 80m rope or a single rope and tag line. Bolted belays up to P5.
Go for it!
Casey on pitch 1
Casey cruxing on pitch 1.
Jonathan on the 5.12- tips corner.
Luke
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jun 13, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
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Looks good, maybe after I convert into a real hardman by doing consistent v5s in the gym! >:)
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jun 14, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
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This is first on my list for the next hulk trip. Last route on that sucker that I haven't done that is easier than 12+
Thanks for putting it up Luke, look forward to snagging a second or whatever ascent. Cheers.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Author's Reply
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Jun 17, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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Sick!
Have you been on Eye of the Storm? Pretty sure it is easier than 5.12+.
Also you could do the first 5 or so of Airstream at 5.11+ to round out your day after Lost in the Sun.
I'm psyched that you are gonna try it! Will be curious to hear about how it feels as an onsight. I thought a few sequences were pretty devious :-D
Luke
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Johnny K.
climber
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Jul 16, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
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Up
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