Trip Report
La Pyramide...Patagonia's Devils Tower on steroids.
Monday February 24, 2014 3:55pm
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Yep, right there in the desert two hours drive from my house. Great venue when the weather over the ice cap is bad, a not uncommon event. Route potential up to 700 feet. So far there are around 22 or 23 pitches with four excellent multi pitch climbs in the 5.11a to 11d range and some nice single pitch climbs starting at 5.8+.
First developed by myself and fellow Americans Jay Smith, Jim Turner, Roger Schimmel and Weston Boyles, the area got a real boost this year from visiting Brits Dave Brown and John Crook who established three excellent new multi pitch routes up to 11d. I wasn't able to climb on the first trip due to a tweaked back muscle but got in some licks on the second foray with Dave, John and Angela a couple of days ago.
Two hours hiking brings you to basecamp at a good spring with only soaring condors and noisy guanacos to disturb your solitude. Not concerned about this TR leading to overcrowding as the area is far from the fleshpots of El Chalten and the Torres de Paine.
Future development likely to come from local Andres Bozollo who has likely developed a trained cadre of young climbers in Chile Chico.
Approx. three bolts have been placed for pro and there are a few bolted belays but the area is 99% place your own gear bro. Definetly bring wires.
Enjoy the following pics....climbing in undiscovered Patagonia. Have some other things going........which will remain enshrouded in mystery.
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Trip Report Views: 12,692 |
donini
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About the Author donini is a trad climber from Ouray, Colorado. |
Comments
philo
climber
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Feb 24, 2014 - 04:08pm PT
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Shazzam! That's a mind tripper to be sure. How stunning. TFPU.
But what's with the Spaceman suit? What's he going to do battle with a fire breathing dragon guarding the start of the route?
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 24, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
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Wow, looks like an awesome place.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Feb 24, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
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wow, just wow!!! thanks for the eye candy.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Feb 24, 2014 - 04:22pm PT
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I knew there had to be another one out there somewhere!
Um, what's up with Ziggy Stardust?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 24, 2014 - 04:26pm PT
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Man, your killing me. Went to the tower last week but it is snowing at 10 degrees today. I would love to climb on that thing some day, but I wish the approach was a little shorter. Does allegiant fly there?
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Weez
climber
East Bay, Ca
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Feb 24, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
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that's amazing photos! thanks for sharing.
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Feb 24, 2014 - 04:39pm PT
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There are so many possible routes on that thing that I just got stressed looking at the pictures.
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Feb 24, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
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Wow. TFPU. Wow.
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Feb 24, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
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Wow. Just WOW!
What is the rock quality like?
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Feb 24, 2014 - 05:09pm PT
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Do I need my rack or just a dozen or so quickdraws?
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 24, 2014 - 09:52pm PT
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My oh my. Rather very nice!
Susan
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Feb 24, 2014 - 11:02pm PT
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Damn that looks fun Donini. Great pics, you are the definition of a climber. Gracias.
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Feb 25, 2014 - 12:06am PT
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Can i get more beta jim
Got dec and jan off and was thinking about goin to argentina
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 25, 2014 - 08:47am PT
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Wyde cracks?
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Feb 25, 2014 - 09:10am PT
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Your a very lucky man, Mr Donini!
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Feb 25, 2014 - 09:16am PT
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Nice crag!
So, what elevation is it?
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Feb 25, 2014 - 09:17am PT
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Holy vert basalt, Batman! That rocks.
Thanks so much, Mr. Donini. What a treat. Nature is grand, ain't it?
BAd
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
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Feb 25, 2014 - 09:54am PT
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That looks like Dolerite not Basalt. Sometimes known as Diabase. Similar but rougher and more friction. My guess anyway.
Jim where's that new helmut of yours?
Arne
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Feb 25, 2014 - 02:44pm PT
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Probably right on the rock...excellent friction. Wasn't supposed to be a big climbing trip this year in Patagonia, left the helmet home.
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pc
climber
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Feb 25, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
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Wow! What a place! Thanks for sharing.
pc
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Feb 25, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
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Qua-li-tay.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Feb 25, 2014 - 04:23pm PT
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Rad rock, cool trad...
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Feb 25, 2014 - 07:58pm PT
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Good on ya Jim,
Way to keep getting after it!!!!
So much rock, so little time.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 25, 2014 - 09:53pm PT
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sweet
but that's a bit far for choss...
loose blocks, no?
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Feb 25, 2014 - 09:54pm PT
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Looks like an endless amount of fun lines on that thing! So nice to see climbing photos from Patagonia that do not look like they are freezing miserable, with a mushroom of ice brine on top :)
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
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Feb 25, 2014 - 10:32pm PT
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Wow! That looks amazing Jim.
I gotta make it up to your place and check that zone out some time soon.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Feb 26, 2014 - 01:39pm PT
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Anytime Mikey. Munge, loose blocks....no.
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RyanD
climber
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Feb 26, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
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Awesome. Looks like finding a nice, continuos line is the challenge. Probably because there's so many to choose from!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Feb 26, 2014 - 02:59pm PT
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Excellent TR, Jim. Looks like a cool locale.
It's not on fire, is it? ;-)
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Feb 26, 2014 - 04:35pm PT
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Spectacular
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 26, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
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Looks awesome, glad you had a good trip!!! Hope to see you in Yosemite this spring!
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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I want to go...
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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WOW!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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anyone want to sponsor me down there?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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sweet, no loose blocks. You guys bivi out, or in and out same day?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Mar 10, 2014 - 05:41pm PT
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Munge....it's 2 to 2.5 hours in to a sweet camp with a great spring. 35 minutes up to the wall from there. Could do an in/out but way better to go in for a few days.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 11, 2014 - 12:02am PT
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Probably never get a chance to visit, but I get this great sense of wonder knowing that places like that are out there. Ain't life grand.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Mar 11, 2014 - 02:28am PT
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Magic
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 11, 2014 - 09:53am PT
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Like Briham, WOW!!!!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Mar 11, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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BBST to the max!!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 11, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
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Great TR, Jim!
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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Mar 11, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
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Utmost admiration for your exceptional contributions, Jim! Lichen the critter pix in your posts too. Wonder if there are local legends about bears clawing at the rock and carving the grooves on the Pyramid, as in Devils Tower. If my wife and I ever make it down there, I'll gladly help out with some hazard reduction at your place. :^)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 11, 2014 - 05:13pm PT
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hey there, say, donini.... wow, i can SEE the pics!!!
wow, again... great share!
and, well, as to THIS:
Yep, right there in the desert two hours drive from my house. MORE great stuff!!! nothing like having a wonderful 'backyard' :)
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Mar 11, 2014 - 05:48pm PT
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Mr. Donini, sir, that is one impressive chunk of rock. Thank you for showing us.
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Bill Thompson
Ice climber
Marquette
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Mar 11, 2014 - 07:36pm PT
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Beautiful! Gotta make those plans
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Mar 12, 2014 - 10:32am PT
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Bump
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notreallyanaidclimber
Trad climber
CO
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Mar 16, 2014 - 06:07pm PT
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Looks like a beautiful formation. Thanks for sharing Jim and congrats on finding such a gem.
Am I wrong to think that it is located just west of the road that heads south from Chile Chico towards the entrance of Reserva Nacional Lago Jeinimeni? I recall seeing some impressive formations west of that road. If you would rather keep the location a secret that is quite understandable too.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Mar 16, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
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Frickin incredible....Taller then Devils tower or any other CA basalt Formations. Jim are you sure you want us unworthy brethren to even know about this crag. As history has shown the more folks going there the place goes to Shite. I remember the joy of climbing at the leap in the 70's....That's gone.
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cintune
climber
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Mar 16, 2014 - 08:06pm PT
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Bump just to add to the chorus of "wow"s. Amazing clean looking summit, too; all those polygons. Could just as well be rhyolite or andesite, the composition doesn't matter, it's all in how fast it cooled. Any pics from up there?
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Mar 16, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
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That is porn..... I envy you Jim.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Mar 17, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
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Jim,
Great photos of a beautiful country.
Took a road trip, South of Coyaique, 8 years ago with a buddy, his Brazilian wife and a friend of hers. We had no climbing gear, but my buddy and I drooled for two weeks over the possibilities.
BTW: That friend of mine and his wife, who I traveled with, have a B&B in Buzios, outside of Rio de Janeiro. They hosted a friend of yours and his Brazilian wife when I was there in November and December. Great people. He's a commercial pilot, flies to South America out of Miami and has a place in Ourey. He showed us some photos of climbing with you near Moab.
(Jeeze, I feel like a twelve year old talking to Mickey Mantle in Yankee Stadium.)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Mar 18, 2014 - 09:50am PT
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Yeah...it's clearly visible from Chile Chico and is just west of the road heading into the reserve. Mark, not worried about too much traffic, more concerned about too little...needs development.
I hope the locals get after it.
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notreallyanaidclimber
Trad climber
CO
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Mar 18, 2014 - 12:18pm PT
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Thanks Jim!
I agree with you that traffic, in such a remote locale, won't be an issue. More development will undoubtedly help the local climbers too. There is a good crew of young climbers in the town of Perito Moreno, about one hour and a half east, on the Argentine side. They will be psyched to hear about this spot you discovered.
Thanks again for sharing.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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May 10, 2014 - 09:58pm PT
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Bump for an "all Donini" front page.
Make it happen.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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What a nice area. Dolerite with columnar jointing. Excellent!
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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"That is porn..... I envy you Jim. "
Agreed, the pics prove
"I know it when I see it."
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Let's go, Manny!
...now that you have time off😎
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85
Mountain climber
Washington
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Wow, Option Paralysis. ( That's a great name for a route. ). Are you sure Beckey hasn't already been right up the middle? I'm simply a jealous GAPER. Can someone tell me what the baked-potato suit is all about? Damn, now I'm hungry!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Author's Reply
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Jun 2, 2016 - 09:42am PT
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I'm sure Becky hasn't been there....not an aid pin in sight.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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You've seen moose drool; how 'bout some mouse drool?
With a kisser like yours, Jim, you should be in GQ.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Thanks for the bump. I hadn't seen this. Phenomenal.
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