Kalymnos III

Trip Report

Kalymnos III

Tuesday October 24, 2017 12:37am

I returned to Kalymnos again for the third year in a row this Sept/Oct 2017. I love the place. It now seems like it's own magical place in a vaccum to me;....don't feel like I am in Europe or in a strange foreign land.....just my "home " away from home and my happy spot. Kalymnos is a great place for me. It takes "forever" to get there, but once you are there, it's all laid out for you. The scooter rides, the beaches, the climbing sectors, the cool places to hang out and eat at, the friendly people and the awesome views, great weather. This year we stayed over 20 days; a long time to be away from my family. Guess I will just have to go there with my family one of these days.


	Credit: Todd Gordon


	Credit: Todd Gordon


	Credit: Todd Gordon

more photos to come.....
stand by...


	It's not a race....or is it.... Credit: Todd Gordon

some of the routes are a wee bit close to each other........it may just be a Euro thing...I don't know.....


	Credit: Todd Gordon

Stacy Hendrickson sends.....


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Dr. Tom Michael posed for limestone


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flexability is strength


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with the power, comes the glory.....


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Steep rock, positive holds......


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Marc Walters....in the house....(the powerhouse...)


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Kip Aszman.......on his every year trip to Kalymnos from Portland.....amazing climber


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Beautiful , strong, and graceful Polish climber...(My wife is Polish....Tomaszewski...).....

more photos to come.....it takes too long to do this all at once.....


	Credit: Todd Gordon

Palm Spring limestone expert Marc Walters


	Credit: Todd Gordon

The view that makes one homesick for Kalymnos.....never tire of this...


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Leila Flanagan;....the pride of Redlands, California. Exceptional climber and wonderful human and awesome pal.


	Credit: Todd Gordon

Leila Flanagan and her belay boy Mike Flanagan;....a great team that gets the job done.......


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The beautiful, smart and talented Stacy Hendrickson


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Leila Flanagan;..power and grace...


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Stacy Hendrickson shreds


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Kip Azsman;...limestone machine


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things are looking up for Mike Flanagan.....


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Tom Michael....happy and on vacation in Kalymnos


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Portland's own;....Kip Azsman


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It's always euro party time at the Ghost Kitchen sector...


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super cool dude with a bionic lead.....awesome stuff!


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awesome climbers everywhere.....


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wonderful climbs...wonderful climbers...


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Go Leila, go Leila.....go Leila,.....go Leila.....


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Legit slab climbing...right side of Ghost Kitchen Sector


	Tom Michael ponders his immediate future. Credit: Todd Gordon


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Stacy Hendrickson;...awesome girl...


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Steve Belford;....power to waste...


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Stacy Hendrickson on the tufas.


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Marc Walters on the tufas.


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Kalymnos favorite couple;....Brits Linzi Walton and Paul Wilson. They came to climb.


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The amazing Marc Walters. Working class hero.


	Credit: Todd Gordon

Hiking the trails in palms springs and days at the gym pays off...


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Steve Belford;.....mega strong


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Brit climbing star Linzi Walton.


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Chalk lip balm


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On vacation and happy together


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Steel fingers and nerves.....
yeah.....what he said....


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great views up high.


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Linzi Walton; superstar


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The amazing Bill Povolny, from Reno, Nevada


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Swedish sensation Saara Muhli


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Cz. climbing master Radim Bedan


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Marc Walters, calculating his next move, planning his next conquest.


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lots of beauty at the crags...


	Credit: Todd Gordon

like I said earlier....lots of beauty at the crags...


	Credit: Todd Gordon

this was my favorite climb on the trip....
Le Bi Mobile (6b)
Princess Canyon, Telendos


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Why do we climb?.....so we can hang out with our homies....


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Bishop's own Karen Roseme........on it..


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Lisa Rodgers.......west coast climbing sensation.


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	Credit: Todd Gordon


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Lisa Rodgers getting her slab on....


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one of my favorite crags; Prophitis Andreas


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My awesome pregnant climbing pal from Luxembourgh, Sandy Kirtz. Got to hang out with her and her friends last year and this. Pool party!


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Euro-party....now we don't talk anymore....


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Lisa Rodgers, a traveling nurses from Pennsylvania, joined me for my last 5 days of the Kalymnos trip; we climbed a lot in 5 days. We have climbed together in Joshua tree, Wyoming, southern Yosemite, etc....so it was nice to meet to up climb in Kalymnos.


	Credit: Todd Gordon


	Credit: Todd Gordon


	Credit: Todd Gordon


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Lisa and I did do that moderate 5 pitch climb left of
Sparticus called Three Stripes. It was really cool.


	Credit: Todd Gordon


	Credit: Todd Gordon


	Credit: Todd Gordon


	Credit: Todd Gordon


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	Credit: Todd Gordon


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Our "team" rented two houses this trip.....here is where one of them was;...a very very nice location!


	Credit: Todd Gordon

My super pals and local connection in Kalymnos.


	Credit: Todd Gordon


	Credit: Todd Gordon


	Credit: Todd Gordon


	Credit: Todd Gordon

I hope I can return to Kalymnos every year for the rest of my life...It's a great place for me. I like to travel all over the world, but I also know what I like, and I have no problem returning to one of my favorite places on the planet!

Trip Report Views: 6,560

Todd Gordon

About the Author
Todd Gordon is a trad climber from Joshua Tree, Cal.

Comments

justthemaid

climber

Jim Henson's Basement

Oct 24, 2017 - 06:32am PT

. Kalymnos has long been on the bucket list. I had a whole trip planned out in 2008. I got laid off due to the recession and had to cancel so it never happened .

Looking forward to your TR

Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Oct 24, 2017 - 03:36pm PT

Looks great Todd! Retirement looks like it has been very, very good to you!

I need to get over there some time.

NutAgain!

Trad climber

https://nutagain.org

Oct 24, 2017 - 06:57pm PT

can't wait to see more pics!

michael hayes

Trad climber

san francisco, ca.

Oct 25, 2017 - 11:11am PT

I am currently in Kalymnos until Oct. 29. With my partner Laurie Berliner. It is my 3rd time here and her 6th time. We are here for about 2.5 weeks, and have climbed at a different sector each day. It is around 70 degrees on average each day. Some days you can climb in the sun if there's a little wind, and some days you must follow the shade. Beautiful place, great vibe, but be prepared for crowds at certain crags, and enjoy the international vibe of hearing several different languages around you as you climb.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Author's Reply

Oct 28, 2017 - 02:59am PT

Be patient with my up-loading....it will take me a few sessions to post my pics and comments....it's slow, and my attention span is that of a 62 year old man...(strange thing, that is.....)......I am pacing myself...

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber

North wet, and Da souf

Oct 28, 2017 - 06:17am PT

Thanks Todd,
Retirement looks great on you!👍👊

COT

climber

Door Number 3

Oct 28, 2017 - 07:43am PT

Nic TR Todd!

My wife and I are heading there for the month of November. We have travelled a fair amount overseas for climbing, but this our first time in Kalymnos. I am sure there are a zillion unique things about Kalymnos, but after three trips there, do you (or any one else) have any "special" pieces of advice/recommendations?

cheers

Dave

MarkWestman

Trad climber

Talkeetna, Alaska

Oct 28, 2017 - 10:30am PT

COT-
I'm in Kalymnos right now, just finishing our first trip here. Five stars!!

A few things we learned:

-Tap water is not potable on the island. Buy a couple of gallon size water jugs and fill them at these free roadside potable water stations- there is one in Masouri and another in Myrties. They say TEMAK on them.

-renting a scooter is worthwhile as many good crags are far enough away that driving is needed. . Many places in Masouri rent them but many demand an international drivers license with a motorcycle endorsement. But we were able to find one (a place called "@lfa") that didn't care and rented a bike to us. €12/day

-Today, it seemed like lots of people were leaving to head home. Not sure what the coming weeks are typically like, but the last two weeks it has been crowded like I've never seen. I think there was a bank holiday in France and Germany this week. We've managed to get plenty of climbing nonetheless, but if it stays as it has been, you'd be wise to give up on the idea that you'll find solitude at any cliff. We've been all over the island and every crag we've climbed at, and every one we observed while driving by, has been kinda like the most crowded night at your local climbing gym that you can imagine. Somehow it always works out though; only once did we get stuffed, there was a group of 20 from a UK climbing club who effectively did a complete crag takeover. Otherwise we've managed to get all we needed each day. People are quite friendly and you can always find a route. With something like 60 different crags and over 3000 routes, i would never have imagined there could be so much crowding. Just accept that and roll with it. It is crowded for good reason!

-make sure to take the boat to Telendos Island and climb over there at least once, and finish the day eating dinner at "On the Rocks" restaurant.

-Great swimming beach at Paleonissos, immediately below a very nice climbing sector. (Sector 7 in the guidebook)

-several good climbing shops in Masouri selling chalk, shoes, ropes, etc.

-Avoid using the yellow ATM machines, apparently they have a very big service charge.

-the only bank or place to change money is in Pothia, about a 15-20 minute drive across the island.

-In my opinion the Aegean Tavern has the best food in Masouri, hands down. Get there early (~6PM) or make a reservation

-the locals are wonderful, very hospitable, honest, and friendly. The food is fabulous.

You'll be glad you have a month, and yet you might wish you had more time. This place is paradise.

Have a great time!

COT

climber

Door Number 3

Oct 28, 2017 - 02:30pm PT

Mark, Thanks for the great beta!

missjr

Trad climber

Oct 28, 2017 - 04:19pm PT

COT,

We also have been there two years in a row. However, this year we decided not to go simply because we thought three years in a row was maybe a bit much and there's other places to go and experience. Well, now we are realizing that we probably could have gone again this year and it would have been just fine. There is a reason people keep going back, year after year....
Like others have chimed in, we think this place is absolutely fantastic and is paradise. What Tom says about it feeling like a home away from home also resonates with us. The place is totally set up to accommodate climbers of ANY ability and is "civilized." We loved seeing people of different cultures, different levels of ability and all ages up at the crags having a great time. People are friendly and nice, food is cheap and delicious ( The Aegean is hands down amazing). For instance, a swordfish dinner freshly caught costs around 15.00 US dollars and can feed two people with a side salad. I don't know where here in the US you can get that price for the amount of food. Oh, and almost every place gives you dessert for free. One place gives you free wine with dessert, matching what you ordered for dinner.....this can be dangerous depending on if you ordered a liter or more already :)
The ocean is still warm enough to swim in during October into November which is a nice way to cap off a day of climbing or as a rest day activity. Accommodations are typically simple but are not that expensive, especially if splitting the costs with someone. We really enjoyed being there in the latter part of October into most of November because it wasn't as crowded, the temps were not too hot and the weather has overall been good to us. I think we will be heading back next fall during that time period.

JR

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Author's Reply

Oct 28, 2017 - 04:33pm PT

Kalymnos can get crowded at the popular sectors;..this is true. There are some ways around this. Here is what I have found.

1) visit in less popular times. Most crowded time is October, I understand. It has cooled off and the climbing temps are better, summer is over, and also the yearly climbing festival is in October. Visit other than October. Because it is cooler and better for climbing in October, it is not as warm for swimming;...something to think about......I would rather have warmer climbing temps and swimming weather..then better climbing temps and poor temps for the beach or pool (just my take on it).
2) Visit sectors where you have to drive further and hike further. This is like any climbing areas;..the closer to the road and the easier to get to, the more crowded it will be. There are exceptions to this, of course. You have to drive and hike to Secret Garden, but it is often/usually busy.
3. Get your lazy ass up early and be the first at the crags. We did this most days and had the first 2 hours of each day at the crags mostly to ourselves....enough time to do 2, 3, or 4 routes, and tag the *** busiest routes when the crag was empty and the temps were nice and cool.
4. Go to Telendnos and go to the less visited areas. I doubt if Princess Canyon ever gets too crowded.
5. Climb in the sun and work on your tan. You will have the crag to yourself during the busy times of the year. I live in Joshua Tree;...that sun don't scare me.
6. Read up and find out when the least crowded months are...(and why), and visit then. Go to a different sector each day and learn which sectors are crowded when and why.
7. Visit often and do the classics. Soon you will have done all the "popular" and crowded routes, and you will then be on the less popular and less crowded routes.
8. Get mega strong and go on the climbs that are so hard no one except you can do them.
9. Each year there are more and more sectors opening up, thining out the crowds by having more routes available to climb.
10. Talk to the locals and guidebook author. See what sectors are being developed (some secretly, I bet) and get involved with that!
11. Climb at night with a headlamp.
12. Be loud and obnoxious and make all the climbers around you leave the sector (just kidding...)....

Yosemite is crowded but workable and wonderful. Joshua Tree is crowded with the camping and the parking and the classic roadside routes, but there is so much solitude in Joshua tree that it's frightening. City of Rocks is crowded a the popular crags. Tahquitz is crowded on the weekends (Suicide is a ghost town most days..). Climbing is popular. One reason why the crags are crowded is because YOU (and me) are there!. Red Rocks is crowded with the camping and classics...do something oddball and obscure. In most cases.....get your ass up early! Kalymnos is so off the charts awesome;....it's totally understandable why there are a lot of climbers there! Weekends are more crowded than weekdays. Accept that you will probably not have the crag to yourself. Meet cool people, have fun, party down, share, enjoy together....it's not Alaska or the Himalayas.

more photos to come.......stay with me here...

phylp

Trad climber

Upland, CA

Oct 28, 2017 - 04:41pm PT

Great photos, Todd. Wonderful that you got to go back again this year. It's such a pleasure to see people out there doing what they love.

zip

Trad climber

pacific beach, ca

Oct 28, 2017 - 04:59pm PT

SWEEEEET!

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Author's Reply

Oct 29, 2017 - 06:08am PT

Kalymnos is a popular climbing place for reasons obvious.

Andy de klerk

Mountain climber

South Africa

Oct 30, 2017 - 12:52pm PT

Hey Mark, thanks for your info. Kalymnos is so far removed from Alaska that it’s actually a pretty good complement. The worlds best holiday climbing in my humble opinion.
We were there last month (first 2 weeks of September) Our second trip there at this time and it was just as fantastic.
It’s hot, but the sea is still warm for swimming, and you look for the sectors in the shade. Where else can you find 3000 routes from 4b to 9a within a 30 minute scooter ride and hear a Babel of languages at the crag? Love it!
Good climbing, good food, good friends, and so far from the Alaskan wilds that I have to laugh at how far we’ve come to find the simple joys
It’s all good
Andy

two-shoes

Trad climber

Auberry, CA

Oct 30, 2017 - 10:26pm PT

Looking great Todd! A working class hero is something to be!

- - - Barry

BLUEBLOCR

Social climber

joshua tree

Oct 31, 2017 - 07:15am PT

You lucky sucker,Todd!!
I'm in The Valley and just met Steve and Karen, a couple that met over there. Sounded like a wonderful trip!!

Thanks for sharing.

gfdonc

climber

Melbourne Australia

Oct 31, 2017 - 06:20pm PT

We went there for the first time in late August. Despite it being summer, and our dislike for climbing in hot weather, it was manageable. Most days were climbing in the morning (shade) then hit the beach in the afternoon. We're planning a return visit.
Trip report here with pix. http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=2&MessageID=11065&Replies=2&PagePos=0&Sort=#NewPost.
Caveats: $ values are in aussie dollars (around 77c US). Grades are French with Aussie (Ewbank) in brackets. Temps are in sensible scale (Celsius).

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Author's Reply

Nov 5, 2017 - 02:44pm PT

Added a few more pics......if you are planning a trip to Kalymnos, this should help. If you weren't planning a trip to Kalymnos,...maybe this could help (you to start planning one!)

maxn

Sport climber

grenoble

Nov 7, 2017 - 04:30am PT

Nice photos! We just got back too, but stayed for only 10 days. We've been going since 2003, and it's been amazing to see how much development there has been. Here are a few photos of our trip

johntp

Trad climber

Punter, Little Rock

Nov 10, 2017 - 01:40pm PT

TFPU mayor. Nice TR

Russ Walling

Social climber

from Poofters Froth, Wyoming

Nov 13, 2017 - 07:02pm PT

#Crushers

BrassNuts

Trad climber

Save your a_s, reach for the brass...

Nov 13, 2017 - 07:33pm PT

Looks like great times! TFPU TG :-) It's on the list...

Andy Fielding

Trad climber

Nov 16, 2017 - 10:17am PT

Nice photos Todd but there's one missing! Sunset behind Telendos :)

COT

climber

Door Number 3

Nov 16, 2017 - 10:58am PT

Not quite "behind Telendos but close enough for this time of year

maxn

Sport climber

grenoble

Nov 21, 2017 - 01:19am PT

hey Todd, what route is that in the first photo?

Leggs

Sport climber

Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo

Nov 21, 2017 - 03:51am PT

So happy for you, Todd! Great photos from your personal P O V. :)

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Author's Reply

Nov 23, 2017 - 09:31am PT

We are already planning next years trip! Amazing and exciting to think about this!

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