Trip Report
Jungfrau by fair means
Saturday August 20, 2016 9:11am
Three years ago, my soon-to-be wife and I ventured into the Bernese Oberland. After my recent move to Switzerland, I was nearly broke and didn't have much money for the expensive lifts into the high alpine that the European Alps are famous for. We spent two glorious days walking up the Aletsch glacier with plans to climb the Mönch by the normal route. After a successful, but eye-opening, experience accidentally climbing the SW ridge instead of the SE ridge, we were hooked on cold, snowy mountains!

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Our trusty guide gazes upon the Jungfrau
Our trusty guide gazes upon the Jungfrau
Credit: el_pirata
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We had planned on climbing the Jungfrau the following day, but due to time constraints, lack of money, and shot nerves from climbing the wrong (and more difficult) route we opted to take the scenic way back down the glacier into the flatlands. However, our desire to climb that mountain continued to grow. We just didn't want to sell everything we owned to afford the train ticket up to the Jungfraujoch, and we didn't want to spend any more days roasting in the mid day heat of the Aletsch glacier.

Suddenly, somehow, we came across a route titled "Jungfrau by fair means" and we knew that was our ticket up!

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Oh, it's gonna be steep!
Oh, it's gonna be steep!
Credit: el_pirata
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The Rottal Ridge sits above the picturesque Lauterbrunnen valley, where some people can spot a fairly good resemblance to Tolkiens images of Rivendell. Waterfalls cascade down giant rock faces, and the beauty seems majestic and endless.

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Not a bad place to be
Not a bad place to be
Credit: el_pirata
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Hiking up into the valley sides was no trivial matter. Everything in this country seems steep, so much so that people refer to hikes in vertical meters instead of actual distance travelled. Along certain paths like this, people will also post reminders of how serious the mountains can be.

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fallen climber memorial
fallen climber memorial
Credit: el_pirata
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After a moment of silence, and a slight ego check, we continued on up the 1800 vertical meters to where we could overnight in the Rottal hut.

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view down to Lauterbrunnen valley
view down to Lauterbrunnen valley
Credit: el_pirata
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Sheep grazing in one of the meadows
Sheep grazing in one of the meadows
Credit: el_pirata
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Megalena admires the scenery, the Aebeniflue north face stands proud i...
Megalena admires the scenery, the Aebeniflue north face stands proud in the background
Credit: el_pirata
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We took our time hiking up, knowing that we had a long way to go and a lot of time to get there. Once at the hut, we went and checked out the slabs at the beginning of the climb. Knowing that we'd be climbing them in the dark the next morning, we took special care to try and find landmarks to navigate, and make note of where there might be fresh verglass on the rocks the following day.

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not so steep, but not so easy by headlamp
not so steep, but not so easy by headlamp
Credit: el_pirata
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We awoke the next morning to astoundingly warm temperatures. I allowed myself to get excited, thinking that we might not need to navigate the slabs with fresh ice. We strapped on the boots and were out the door by 4am.

The first sections of the slabs went well, even in the dark. Opting to rope up later, we were able to make good time and reached the start of the technical stuff right at sunrise.

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megalena loves slabs
megalena loves slabs
Credit: el_pirata
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beginning of the route
beginning of the route
Credit: el_pirata
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Megalena digs mixed stuff
Megalena digs mixed stuff
Credit: el_pirata
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Like we were told by the hut warden, the route had a lot of snow on it. It seemed consolidated, and temperatures were at a stable level of "fresh." We roped up, strapped on the crampons, and were stoked to finally rock and roll!

I don't know if i can describe the enjoyment of mixed stuff...it's like trying to explain why you climb a run out route, or an offwidth, or like grovelling up chimneys. For me, I love the concentration, having to judge what is frozen in well, what isn't, and what snow/ice to step on or hook with a tool.

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typical terrain on the Rottal ridge
typical terrain on the Rottal ridge
Credit: el_pirata
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Amazingly, this route was sustained for the grade. Lots of routefinding mixed with very cautious climbing in a grand atmosphere. We were so focused we could hardly take pictures of the cool pitches!

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Credit: el_pirata
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Megalena loves the cold
Megalena loves the cold
Credit: el_pirata
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After what seemed like a blink of an eye, we reached the upper snowfields, and only then noticed that we had been on route for 5 hours. We couldn't believe it! How does the time pass so quickly? The sun was starting to peak out over the ridge, so we donned our glasses and made our way up the final 400 meters of snow and ice.

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view from the Jungfrau summit
view from the Jungfrau summit
Credit: el_pirata
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Credit: el_pirata
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After having dreamed of this mountain for 3 years, we couldn't believe we were standing there. Tears of mixed joy and exhaustion streamed down our faces and steamed our glasses. A beautiful, windless day on top of the Jungfrau, and that achieved by an amazing 24 hour approach, we couldn't have asked for more.

Once down the (surprisingly!) steep normal route, drinking beers on the terrase of the Jungfraujoch, I expected to have that familiar tingle of "well, what mountain are we going to try next?"

When Megalena asked me that inevitable question, I could only respond "I don't know. I'm pretty happy with that one."

At that moment, I realized that I was staring into the massive glaciered landscape to admire its beauty, rather than focusing on where other routes up the ridges and faces were hiding. My spirit felt cleansed, and I felt humbled.

  Trip Report Views: 3,469
el_pirata
About the Author
el_pirata is a bad climber from california, living in lucerne, switzerland

Comments
snakefoot

climber
Nor Cal
  Aug 20, 2016 - 09:19am PT
Place is badass! nice work and thanks for the report.
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Aug 20, 2016 - 09:22am PT
what terrain! and say what you will for bro-time, a hawt partner always makes the summit better!
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Aug 20, 2016 - 10:38am PT
A fun report. Thank you for sharing the scenery.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Aug 20, 2016 - 10:50am PT

After having dreamed of this mountain for 3 years, we couldn't believe we were standing there. Tears of mixed joy and exhaustion streamed down our faces and steamed our glasses. A beautiful, windless day on top of the Jungfrau, and that achieved by an amazing 24 hour approach, we couldn't have asked for more.

Thanks, there's nothing more to say...
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 20, 2016 - 11:40am PT
Just awesome!
skamoto

Mountain climber
coalinga ca
  Aug 20, 2016 - 06:11pm PT
This has got to be a fake report. People from the desert of Coalinga Ca don't go climbing mountains. Yet alone mountains in Switzerland. I'm calling B.S............... With that said though. Man that's awesome!! Looks pretty bad Apple to me. Hope to see you again next time your state side! Tell mags Hi from me and Bear.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Aug 20, 2016 - 07:09pm PT
Looks wonderful!

My wife is from pretty close to there on Italian side, and we head there most winters for a few weeks to visit family. Will have to wait til her career settles down before we can spend more time in a warmer season and do stuff like this :)

You definitely inspired me to add this one to the bucket list.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Aug 21, 2016 - 04:35pm PT
Wait, you walked up this?


And then you hiked this choss heap?

STOUT HIKING, INDEED! Berg heil, baby! :-)
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
  Aug 21, 2016 - 06:16pm PT
Good stuff young'ons!

TFPU
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Aug 21, 2016 - 07:15pm PT
I love the Rottal Ridge. There are some brilliant pitches.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
  Aug 22, 2016 - 03:30am PT
Berg heil !
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Aug 23, 2016 - 12:09pm PT

Jungfrau 1913 or earlier:

micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 23, 2016 - 01:03pm PT
Fantastic! My wife homeschooled our children in Bavaria for a spring semester last year.......No plan, no itinerary, just soaking up the mountains and the people and the culture. I look back fondly on our time there. Way to get after it! Thanks for a great report.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 23, 2016 - 01:20pm PT
Thank you for the wonderful trip report and pictures.

John
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Aug 23, 2016 - 01:32pm PT
Awesome tale and pictures! I've always wished I could go there.

Thanks for posting this!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Aug 23, 2016 - 05:47pm PT
hey there say, WOW... thanks for sharing... this is WONDERFUL!!!
thank you so much for sharing this great stuff!!!!



say, and again, to marlow:
love those historic, etc, pics that you add to many threads, and of your threads, too...


Mom

Social climber
So Cal
  Sep 8, 2016 - 11:37pm PT
For Jungfrau and me it was mid October, 1979. We had graduated from a notable university 12 years back and in '79 with three children and a couple of businesses operating great, decided this was OUR time before #4 child & #3 business become another reality, to do our version of the grand tour of 'The Continent'. So we packed our Levis's, preferably scrubby w/ holes, turtlenecks, a wool pullover, topsiders & Nikes, 007 raincoat, passport, & mini-umbrella; I grabbed an unread "The Eiger Sanction", the travel backgammon (all manual as game boy was not invented YET) & he packed his beloved ASME stuff. Twelve hours of eating, on board movies, reading, sleeping, walking, waiting in line.... You get the picture, but I was reading & enjoying the mystery, picturing Clint Eastwood as Henri ETC.... So when he return after his umpteenth John visit, I asked if we were scheduled for Jungfrau? To which he replied, 'I'm hung how?Oh, you mean Hung who?' Long story shortened, he wanted to see the Five Canons and a factory... No meeting of the mind(s) here. When my time to be 'l am woman, hear me roar,' I got THE car, drove alone, no cell phone, rode the cog train, begged stupidity on my part for a sleeping room, sat in the early morning darkness so as not to miss first light awakening that totally, sensual, beguiling, massive God created wonder.... And there I sat all day taking in every daylight filled second, along w/ my old reliable Pentax135, partaking in a visual overload like I had never experienced. The staff understood what I was experiencing; they kept my cup, my glass, my stein filled, an appropriate plate never speaking, but just knowing ..... Should I live long enough to return to visit that cold, massive, beguiling mountain, I am certain in my lustful heart, it would feel the same as the first time.... Why this malingering monologue? BECAUSE, YES, some human beings get to live their dreams, to live in Lucerne, to live in Switzerland or Southern France, or Yosemite or Josh or to raise a brood of successful kids that one day too will seek their Eiger, have their ahh-ha moment or day or week and then get to their purpose never forgetting that Eiger moment and looking to it when their strength is waning.... BECAUSE, YES, you can too..

P.S. Don't ask me how any times, I have seen the movie... Okay begins w/17...
roy

Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
  Sep 9, 2016 - 12:19pm PT
Great trip report - and so satisfying to come back and get to the top.

For me it was "unfair means". The cog train to the Jungfraujoch and then skis up to about 300m below the summit. Roped up and headed up to an amazing summit. It is pretty steep, both on the skis and the upper ice but feels so good to make it up.

We spent another three days touring around the glaciers and climbing a few other peaks. The area is fantastic and as I'm now lucky enough to live here I'll definitely be back amongst these peaks.

Cheers, Roy
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Sep 9, 2016 - 02:04pm PT
Great TR!
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Sep 9, 2016 - 02:07pm PT
Hey Mom,
Your trip report is the best yet. Thanks. I spent my time in the Berner Oberland. And Yosemite. And there's the kid. Good job Mom.
MikeL

Social climber
Southern Arizona
  Sep 10, 2016 - 12:33am PT
Wonderful. I'm ashamed to say that we could afford to get to the top in a much easier (but perhaps less rewarding) style. In any event, and by any means, the mountain and beauty are unsurpassed. Your post brings back grand memories. TFPU.



Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Sep 10, 2016 - 08:02am PT

Who you see in the photo below (1880s) is Ulrich Aplanalp. At the time said to be the oldest chamois huntsman in Berner-Oberland.

Mom

Social climber
So Cal
  Sep 11, 2016 - 09:45pm PT
Now this photo is truly priceless with the leather pants, the angular hat. Just a fantastic photo for those who have a heart for the Alps.

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