Trip Report
Joshua Tree - A bouldering walkabout w/video
Monday January 30, 2012 11:39pm
Despite the 8 trillion boulders scattered amongst the dummy domes, the bouldering in Joshua Tree really kind of sucks. Sharp, grainy rock, a lack of steep terrrain and positive holds, and funky frictiony movement on moderates isn't exactly the makings of another Hueco Tanks.

But I love to boulder, almost as much as climbing on a rope, and way more than sport climbing. I tend to repeat some classics like Pigpen or Caveman each season, because they are the best Josh has to offer and they're mere seconds off the road. But there are still a select few dick wrenching mega classics out there that I've not gotten to yet.

So on a perfect Sunday afternoon of 55 degrees, sunny, and calm, I took a break from remodeling hell and set out to get my fix.

First stop, Barker Dam. Let's get our warm up on, where else? Gunsmoke of course. I arrived to find it strangely deserted, but snapped this pic on the way out...because it's not everyday you see a feller bouldering in a helmet!

top left corner top right corner
Helmets...hmmm
Helmets...hmmm
Credit: Elcapinyoazz
bottom left corner bottom right corner

So after warming up on this old favorite, which runs the fine line between warming up and warming out, I headed out to the main objective, Alister's Cave, for a look at two highly starred problems I'd never seen: Diary of a Dope Fiend and Sex Magician.

Lying a bit off the desert floor, is a steep and deep cave accessed by walking and eventually crawling through some narrow spots (mildly eye opening exposure!) along a ledge system. And WOW! This might be the coolest single bouldering area in the Monument. Steep, hard, gymnastic climbing with actual holds and three high quality problems plus variations. I settled on Diary of a Dope Fiend and went to work, fondling the holds from the ground, then deciphering sequences. After the 3rd go, I knew it was in the bag, and on the 4th it was. This thing is like Caveman's big brother, with similar terrain including a left-shoulder wrecking gaston move and some pump factor. Personally, I think Caveman is harder, but that might be a height issue. In my book, this is the finest problem of its rating in Joshua Tree. Yes, it's that good.

My SD card filled up on the 2nd go, and on the send I end up climbing out of the frame (they are reversed in order on the clip), but this video will give you a good idea of what's involved. What you don't see is that after the final double knee bar rest, the final sequence is a dynamic and difficult sloper sequence. It makes for an appropriate and potentially heart breaking finish. I used the left one first, then a drive-by on the right one to gain the good sloper above. Whew! Gassed.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

I didn't have much in the way of plans after this one, because frankly I thought it would be a project and multi-day affair. So after sending and with plenty of pull left in me, it was off to sample some favorite classics, albeit at an easier level. On the way out of the Barker Dam area, I stopped to chuck a lap on the Chube, perhaps best know these days from Dean's fine Stone Nudes shot on this stellar line. Some juggy liebacks lead to a huck for the sloping top and a heel hook mantle out. It's about 50' from the Gunsmoke and by now there were about a dozen folks hanging around which meant it was time to seek a quieter locale.

Parking at Intersection, the lot had maybe a dozen cars...on a 60 degree sunny Sunday, mid season..WTF? I was happy to see the JBMFP and surrounds completely empty. The John Bachar Memorial Face Problem might be the best sub-vertical problem in the park, and certainly my favorite. Despite the starting holds being greasy as a Waffle House cook, the upper ones were crispy.

[Click to View YouTube Video]


A lap on the False Up 20, a stellar handcrack and lieback, and then on to a sometimes frustrating one, the Orange Curtain aka Slick Willie. This is your average everyday 5.11 JT slab on texture, and took me probably 30 attempts over 3 seasons. Once I'd done it, could do it almost everytime afterwards. Still get spit off from time to time, but have gone on to do it with several sequences which goes to show...I just plain sucked before! There's no mystery or strength required here, just good body position and decent footwork, but it's a classic in my book (and being 20' from the JBMFP helps).

[Click to View YouTube Video]

After that, the sun was creeping low and the tips getting a bit raw. Which is probably the biggest issue with bouldering in Josh, your skin gives out before you get really worked. Not sure if that's a good thing or a bad one, but when you have a half-day and need to regain some sanity after endless home improvement projects, it's just the ticket. Go get ya some!

  Trip Report Views: 2,512
Elcapinyoazz
About the Author
Elcapinyoazz is a social climber from Joshua Tree.

Comments
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Jan 30, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
tx esp. for the diary bit. one id never seen until rob's book came out. and didnt grovel out there cuz i figured it'd be the normal routine. but that does look really cool.
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Jan 30, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
Nice Will - pullin' hard, Buddy!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jan 30, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
Nice videos.
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 31, 2012 - 12:32am PT
Good stuff!
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
  Jan 31, 2012 - 01:15am PT
Nice stuff, but I have a hard time considering anything with a full hands off rest to be a real boulder problem.

Curt
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
  Jan 31, 2012 - 12:57pm PT
You're right Curt, not a boulder problem?????

What would you call it then...

I'd probably call it some kind of low-to-the-ground traversing route. I'd also be inclined to rate the difficulty of it with the YDS, as opposed to the "V" scale for the same reason.

Curt
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Author's Reply  Jan 31, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
Thanks dudes, pretty nice to have this stuff just a few miles up the road.

You're a brave man, flopping around on that thing without a spot,

It's a fine line between brave and stupid. First go I did almost pancake out of the match to the gaston. Take a spotter! Or another pad anyway.

The problem is only about 9 moves long, kinda short for YDS ratings. But whatever turns your crank, call it 13- . If you're tall enough, the no-hands rest might not be an option.
couchmaster

climber
  Jan 31, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
Good stuff. The worst day climbing is better than the best day discussing politics on supertopo LOL....and that looked like a great day hitting the sunny sweet spots.

Nice!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jan 31, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
Nice! Timing is everything.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jan 31, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
Very nice trip report, thank you for posting!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jan 31, 2012 - 02:31pm PT
A new format for TR's is born - descriptive text followed by kickass, unjittery video that puts that description into visuals.

Very cool, ECIYO.

Also a cool reminder in here that climbing takes all kinds of different skills - not just power, not just technique, not just endurance, not just a strong head.

I'm thinking back to your sweet Rostrum TR, and now understand that no move on that thing was even close to your limit if you're cranking out stuff this hard. Yet it was still a formidable challenge - stacks of pitches, placing gear, variety of locks and jams. Not even close to .13- in difficulty, yet no comparison to burly bouldering.

Got to love everything that the climbing game throws at us. It's what keeps us coming back, right?
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Jan 31, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
Very well done, Thanks, ECIYA
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jan 31, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
Nice sends, thanks!
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