Trip Report
Jah man!!
Tuesday November 8, 2016 8:00am
Greetings in the name of his majesty, Emperor Haile Selassie I
Jah rastafari!
Ever-living, ever-feareful, ever-sure
Selassie I the first
Yeah
Yeah
Rastafari, ever-living
Rastman vibration, positive

Bob Marley, Rastaman Vibrations

So, what's the best preparation for a desert tower famous for its thin hands cracks and long approach?

top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
5.10+ offwidth, the day before!
Of course!
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
Catherine on 'Off-widths are beautiful' ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️🌟, Potash road
Rocket dog Asia, on backup belay!
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
The rack;
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Then as a desert dessert, ( in the Deseret?) Catherine took us up Gramma and the green suede shoes, an offwdth on Wall Street.
Being an attentive lead belayer, I didn't get any photos on the ascent, but got this one just before the rappel

top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

....and early the next day...

It's dark! Did somebody do something to the clocks?
There it is!
top left corner top right corner
Sister superior, the rectory and Castleton towers, 11/6/16
Sister superior, the rectory and Castleton towers, 11/6/16
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
The tallest of the little ones.

Nothing jump starts an expedition like a 1.8 mile, 4wd, jumpstart. Ferretlegger was the wheel man, vehicle graciously provided by Sceagoat
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
Better check out the view the other way...
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

So, you'll have to go there yourself to check out the thin crack action.
The first pitch is 5.9++ funk to a a hundred foot 5.8++ chimney, the 'Sister Squeeze'.
The next pitch is 5.10+ thin hands (greens (yikes!!) and reds) to sideways shenanigans under a roof to a "5.8+" hand crack. And looking down from the belay looks like this ;
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

The next pitch, truly a crowd pleaser, is a pumpy, steep 5.10 thin hands crack ( slightly friendlier size than the first).
The view from the top look like this;
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

The last pitch is a 5.9++ ( I'm beginning to see a theme) desert face pitch! Triple yikes!!
top left corner top right corner
The Priest, the Rectory, and the Castleton from summit of Sister Super...
The Priest, the Rectory, and the Castleton from summit of Sister Superior!
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner
top left corner top right corner
Credit: Jaybro
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Four raps past three happy parties enjoying a beautiful day in the sun brought us down to a napping and sunbathing Asia, who was glad to see .

The fun of the day put a spring in out steps, esp Asia, that served us well on the full walk out!

  Trip Report Views: 1,939
Jaybro
About the Author
Jaybro is a social climber from Wolf City, Wyoming

Comments
WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
  Nov 8, 2016 - 08:09am PT
+ the + grades!
zBrown

Ice climber
  Nov 8, 2016 - 08:18am PT
Nice one Jaybro. Where did you ditch the bikes?

SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
  Nov 8, 2016 - 08:30am PT
Nice one Jay!
And you guys did look so relaxed afterwards....just another walk in the park for the both of you!!!

Susan

PS. Mike bought the car from me so it's inner beast has now been released!
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
  Nov 8, 2016 - 08:30am PT
Outstanding TR, Jaybro.
Quality climbs in a quality setting. It has always been difficult for me to determine what is more enjoyable, just being in the desert or climbing those cool towers, or maybe it's the company one keeps out there. It's all so confusing to my innocent childlike mind.
Thanks again, for the desert sandstone fix.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 8, 2016 - 08:41am PT
Nice Jay. Are you going to be around Moab the week before Thanksgiving? We may be coming out.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Nov 8, 2016 - 09:06am PT
Yes, I'll be here!

And congrats team ferret goat, on a successful vehicle transfer.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Nov 8, 2016 - 02:01pm PT
I'm only slightly envious. . .

KNOT!!!!

I'm REALLY ENVIOUS!!!!!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Nov 8, 2016 - 02:07pm PT
love that cloud and sun shot!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Nov 8, 2016 - 02:18pm PT
Excellent! Huge plusses for you.

John
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Nov 8, 2016 - 03:33pm PT
Damnit Jaybro, just when I get all cozy thinking my life is going well, you have to remind me that Moab is there and I am not there.
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
  Nov 8, 2016 - 03:53pm PT
What a beautiful place to climb! Nice to see the smiles and the stoke.
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Nov 8, 2016 - 04:07pm PT
TFPU! a ten star line. how isthe new hardware on last pitch?
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Nov 8, 2016 - 04:46pm PT
A photogenic climbing pair!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Nov 8, 2016 - 05:09pm PT
Looks like the weather didn't cooperate!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Nov 8, 2016 - 05:30pm PT
Dang! Two of my favorite people and one of my favorite climbs. Let me think, that adds up to three, right? Well, there you go. TFPU!

Oh wait, one of my OTHER favorite people, Ken Trout, who I just saw a couple of weekends ago, was on the first ascent. Make that four.
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
  Nov 8, 2016 - 05:53pm PT
beat the election news hands down or is that thumbs up...?

TFPU!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Nov 8, 2016 - 07:30pm PT
JAH MAUN ~ JAH MAN, JAH RASTA ! JAH RASTAFARI
RASTAFARIAN rastafari!, Iree Jah !
Go