So the Valley hardman Alexi and I decided we'd take a trip up the Crack of Doom as kind of an easy day as we were fresh from getting a beat down on Windfall the day before. Having been raised on the exploits and lore of valley hardmen of past, the Crack of Doom is one I've always had my eye on. I consider it a "right of passage route" much like Steck Salathe, LA Chimney, RNWF of Half Dome etc... Anyway, one can easily admire it's beauty from afar, but cannot fully comprehend its aesthetics until you're standing beneath it.

Behold, the great MAW!


The approach can be summed up like this, It's not as bad as you could imagine, but worse than you'd think.

But oh the rewards you shall reap at the end of the path.

I won't blow this one for you with technical details. I'll let the pictures tell the story.

Alexi following Pitch 1. A flawless steep pitch of hands to cupped hands with a little bit of the Wyde to keep the psyche up.


A taste of whats to come.


I arrived at a much unexpected killer belay ledge with exactly the gear I needed left. Things were looking good until unfortunately the bay tree let loose some angry natives which promptly swarmed from every flank. We've all been there.

As good as the first pitch was, the second was looking even better. A splitter break in the otherwise flawless granite. Uniform and uncompromising, perfect in every way. The uniformity forces purpose. You can't just sew this one up and mindlessly auger your way up. There is not enough gear in 5 racks for this. You must... climb!


Fortunately there is a relief crack about half way up that takes a bit more gear for that "piece of mind". Alexi hit the anchors just ahead of the sun. Which unfortunately will bake him for the next half hour. Thats about all this crack ever sees, a half hour to 45 minutes of sun before it's back to the shade. Sweet!!!


Wasn't the most comfortable of belays but was good enough. The next pitch was hard to judge. It seemed to reach back into a gaping maw that never ends. Once again, you must climb. Forget your rack, grab a 4in piece and just go. This is the advice I wish I had.


Now, with great difficulty I finally entered the birth canal. I had to loose everything, drop my rack, slings, strip my helmet, everything that wasn't essential except for a few pieces for an anchor. Once you enter the canal, you don't need gear and getting to the canal you can't use any. You must earn your right of passage.

Crappy photo but if you study it well, it's pretty funny. Here you'll see Alexi in the squeeze hauling the entire rack up, pushing my helmet above him while dragging his behind. Sorry Alexi;)


When you reach the final ledge, it is a reformation of ones self, a birthing and acknowledgement that you have earned your right to be here.


We were able to rappel the route with minimal effort. From here you could really appreciate the aesthetics of this beautiful climb.


Well boys and girls, this most beautiful of climbs is always going to be there. Go get some!!!