Trip Report
Hypa Zypa Couloir on the Citadel in the Kichatna Range, Alaska
Wednesday November 25, 2015 10:42am
I climbed this line in 2013 with Americans Ben Erdmann and Jess Roskelley, who I guess do not need any introduction to this audience. Rather than repeating what has been written about the climb here http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13s/newswire-citadel-kichatnas I will simply show some photos from the climb:

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The line.
The line.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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BC
BC
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Start of the main couloir.
Start of the main couloir.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Glory awaits.
Glory awaits.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Jess on the ice crux.
Jess on the ice crux.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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The couloir narrows in further.
The couloir narrows in further.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Jess on the mixed crux.
Jess on the mixed crux.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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View from the first bivy.
View from the first bivy.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Exit at the top of the couloir.
Exit at the top of the couloir.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Ben dealing with the rock crux with 5.10R near the end of the 60 meter...
Ben dealing with the rock crux with 5.10R near the end of the 60 meter pitch.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Dawn at the second bivy.
Dawn at the second bivy.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Bivy on Hypa Zypa Couloir
Bivy on Hypa Zypa Couloir
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Near the summit of the Citadel, Kichatna range
Near the summit of the Citadel, Kichatna range
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Summit of Citadel, Kichatna range
Summit of Citadel, Kichatna range
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Ben and Jess on the summit.
Ben and Jess on the summit.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Myself on the summit.
Myself on the summit.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Scary descent awaits...
Scary descent awaits...
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Here is a Youtube slideshow as well:

[Click to View YouTube Video]

  Trip Report Views: 4,138
KristofferSzilas
About the Author
Kristoffer Szilas is a mountain climber from Denmark.

Comments
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
  Nov 25, 2015 - 10:47am PT
YES!!!!!! Thanks for posting. Beautiful, amazing.
BluntMan

Gym climber
Wild Omar, CA
  Nov 25, 2015 - 10:53am PT
Great pictures and video. Bad-ass FA. TFPU
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 25, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
Great TR, thank you for sharing all the photos! AWESOME!
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Nov 25, 2015 - 03:22pm PT
Nice looking line.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 25, 2015 - 04:43pm PT
A super abundance of the alpine today, thanks to you. Great tr!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Nov 25, 2015 - 07:01pm PT
I liked this TR. I just hate the cold. Good times for those who don't.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
  Nov 25, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
Thanks again--great adventures
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Nov 25, 2015 - 07:23pm PT
What a line!
namascar

Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
  Nov 25, 2015 - 07:26pm PT
Thanks for TR, super nice line
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Nov 25, 2015 - 09:23pm PT
Yikes!
Thanks for the share
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Nov 26, 2015 - 07:05am PT



thanx for sharing all this, STUFF!
Your alpine ranks right up there. . .
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
  Nov 26, 2015 - 07:09am PT
"Thanks for Giving" me a great adventure this morning.
I have that same BD tent. Mine, unfortunately, lives a much tamer life.
This has been an other wow installment that perks me right up when I see the TR!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Susan
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 26, 2015 - 10:39am PT
That is totally awesome. Happy Thanksgiving to u.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 26, 2015 - 10:44am PT
Hey. What's the video to because it's really awesome. More pictures and some video too. Thanks a lot.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 27, 2015 - 06:23pm PT
Nice job!
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Nov 29, 2015 - 07:49am PT
Wow, sitting in my living room, but feeling cold looking at these shots.
Good job, great TR and photos.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Dec 2, 2015 - 03:25am PT
Holy smokes, WHAT A LINE!
Watermann2

Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
  Dec 2, 2015 - 03:44am PT
Great masterpiece!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Many congratulations!!!!!!!!!!
Chapeau!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Greetings from Italy.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Dec 6, 2015 - 06:49pm PT
So so beautiful. Thank you.

5.10R in those conditions and with those shoes... gah
KristofferSzilas

Mountain climber
Denmark
Author's Reply  Dec 6, 2015 - 07:49pm PT
Thanks guys!
In case any of you are into bigwall climbing, I would recommend checking out the piece of rock to the right of our line:

Larry Nelson

Social climber
  May 5, 2016 - 01:17pm PT
Just bumpin another great TR to the top
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
  May 5, 2016 - 03:29pm PT
Stay tuned for the report of a new route on this same peak by two members of the team that first ascended the "Hypa Zypa Couloir."
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