Last day of school was Wednesday. Thursday morning I was headed to the high country of the San Juan mountains. My plan was to do the El Diente - Mt. Wilson traverse. Solo. (This is in response to the solo hiking thread, I just can't help myself)

Knowing I was out of shape, and coming from a mere 5ooo feet, I decided to hike in a few miles. I spent the night at 10,200' where the trail intersects Kilpacker Creek. That was a good call.

I followed the standard route, shown on the map, up El Diente. So, it's May 25th, and the conditions up here seem more like they would in August during a normal year, but this is not a normal year down here in these parts. In fact, I did El Diente before, in August, a couple of years ago, and there was only a little bit more snow this time, which I fully took advantage of. In a normal year I would have brought crampons, but not this year.



It was nice to have a few snow runnels to follow. Last time I remember a lot of sketchy, loose, steep scrambling. The snow was pretty firm though, so I even had to chop steps in a few places. That was taxing. Like I said, I'm out of shape.
The last few hundred feet to the ridge crest is 3rd/4th class, depending on your choices, it all depends on your choices.
At this point the altitude was getting to me. By the time I staggered up to the summit, I had already decided thet I was not going to attempt the traverse. Again! Damnit!


My isolation was really sinking in as I sat on the summit (14,149'). I called Laura, because I had reception, and I was feeling particularly lonely at the moment.
Stubbornly, I refused to back track. So I decided to descend the west ridge of El Diente, thinking that would be a slightly easier option . . .
The first drop off, while it looked forbidding, offered a reasonable 4th class downclimb on the north side. It was the next few obstacles which were the crux of the day. There are a series of big gendarmes which must be overcome. I found myself downclimbing 3o' vertical faces, then back up to the ridge crest. Extremely circuitous, but I didn't have to retreat at any point. I was worked, I definitely wanted to find the easiest way.


There are parts of this ridge which consist of an insane assemblage of stacked blocks and loose flakes, nothing is actually attached to anything. You are forced into a choice of descending a couple hundred feet down some loose gully, or taking your chances on the high route, which often involves harder and more risky climbing.
At one point I opted to drop down off the very crest and traverse 100' or so on the north side. Anyone who has read John Muir may remember him writing about his experience on Mt. Ritter, where every thing was brought in to a moment of supreme focus. He could see every detail of the rock face in front of him. I had a moment like that on this traverse. I found myself in a spot where it was difficult to see my feet. Then, I felt the foothold I was standing on, move. I was looking down at a couple of rock bands and steep snow below that. I'd probably go all the way if I fell right here. I froze. then the focus kicked in. I found the few handholds which actually were attached to something. I shifted my weight and stepped right. As soon as I pushed off that ledge and committed to another set of holds the whole thing cut loose, a big-screen TV size flake went cartwheeling down the north face of El Diente. I froze again. I feel like I really got away with something there, sketchy!


After the ridge smoothed out, I came upon this skull,probably an elk right on the ridge crest, at about 13,000'!

I got more than I bargained for on this one. I had to dig deep to get down that ridge, mentally and physically. It was nice to have a basecamp set up. I collapsed there for the night. I'm glad my skull is still firmly attached to my shoulders.