Trip Report
Hero, or doofus?
Thursday April 30, 2015 4:52am
I got out today for a little rope solo and minitraxion session. By way of a soundtrack:

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Today we have a local holiday, not shared with Barcelona. So it's a perfect time to get out to a local crag. My destination was Gelida, a nice set of cliffs about 30 meters high, a little SW of Barcelona. The rock is pretty much like Siurana, but the place is a lot smaller, of course. Perhaps around 60 routes total, mostly in 5.10-5.12 range, but a few easy routes, too. Very good quality, in general.

On the way, I heard my vehicle making some odd sounds, so I stopped for a look. Fortunately, it was only the appendix, and with a quick operation, without anesthesia, or even washing my hands, I had it out:

top left corner top right corner
emergency field appendectomy
emergency field appendectomy
Credit: mcreel
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Got to the parking, and headed up the rigorous 8 minute approach. Here are a couple of shots of the crag:
top left corner top right corner
11s and 12s, 25 meters high, lots of fun when in shape
11s and 12s, 25 meters high, lots of fun when in shape
Credit: mcreel
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
A very nice 10b climbs a Smith Rocks style crack up to the roof, snake...
A very nice 10b climbs a Smith Rocks style crack up to the roof, snakes
around it to the R, then goes up the slab at the top. Fun!
Credit: mcreel
bottom left corner bottom right corner


After only 40 minutes from leaving the house, I was at the foot of my chosen route, a 30 meter 5.7, pretty juggy overall, but with a thin-ish section at the start, which provides interest. Here's the route:

top left corner top right corner
The chosen routes
The chosen routes
Credit: mcreel
bottom left corner bottom right corner

The first route starts right above that plant in the foreground, to the L of the big tree at the R of the crag, and goes up the arete/face.

It has been about 4 or 5 years since I last did rope soloing, so it was pretty exciting getting started. I use the system that healyje has described well in a thread from a while ago, using an Edelrid Eddy. I tied off the rope to a big tree, and set off, feeling a little nervous, but ok. Once I got though the first slightly challenging moves, and had a couple of bolts clipped, I was pretty relaxed. The rest was pleasant and uneventful, and I started feeling like a rad climbing hero. On the way down, though, I noticed that I had zoomed right by a bolt at an easy section, missing the clip. What a doofus! In my defense, I think that the bolt was not there the last time I did the route (or else I'm getting charmingly forgetful). The Eddy system works so well that it is possible to climb fast.

Back on the ground, I got my two minitraxions on the rope, hung my water bottle for a weight, and set off for another lap. The route is so good I could do it a million times and still have fun.

When getting ready to rap down using the Eddy, I noticed I had it clipped in to my leg loops, and not the belay loop. Oops! Back to feeling like a doofus.

Back on the ground again, and start up the 5.9 just to the L. This cycle repeats a few times, and after 2 hours I have done 6 laps total. Not bad, 180 meters of climbing, going fast enough that it felt like an aerobic workout.

A great morning, 3.5 hours total, sofa to sofa, and I'm finishing the TR only 5 hours after I left the house.

A parting thought: us old farts that have been climbing for 40 years need to pay attention to the basics. I had a couple of doofus moments today, probably due to the excitement of rope soloing after so long not having done it. But, it was a good time. I'm pretty sure I'll get out again a few times this Spring, and try to work up to 20 laps in 5 hours.

  Trip Report Views: 2,192
mcreel
About the Author
mcreel is a climber from Barcelona.

Comments
Jones in LA

Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
  Apr 30, 2015 - 05:48am PT
You got out and got 'er done. Heroic!

Rich Jones
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Apr 30, 2015 - 06:04am PT
interesting soundtrack.
it coincides with my absence.

i was recently inspecting
my anchor; not the rope-
tending kind, but like
my roots to this world.

and it's funny.
you see i'm trained
in material science,

and the chain that
binds me to this,
is completely broken.

like one end is around
my ankle, and the other
is still anchor bound.

so for years I've been
only using my soul as
a base-existence,
returning to it when
life-exposure necessitated.

all along i thought
that i was attached,
though i'm infinitely
detached.

thank you mcreel.
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Apr 30, 2015 - 06:15am PT
I wanna go climbing in Cataluņa in April.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Apr 30, 2015 - 06:27am PT
Good on you for getting out and getting up and down and up and down!
I am jealous I have been Top rope soloing for more than fifteen years now, it is the way many people I know still climb.

For me this last year has left my hesitant, scared by the deaths of the many good climbers,but one in particular Brian Delany who fell for an unknown reason from the top of his easy regular solo in New Hampshire .

My set ups vary a bit from those on this site I would have loved to see a picture of your rig in action. My tie in point is high as I wear a chest harness, the rig is not much for
the first five to ten feet, then I can sinch it down, take the stretch out of the system re -anchor, and continue does this sound . . . .
Well . . .sound ? Actually I am totally dialed in when I'm alone in the wilds.
Still alone is less safe than with someone.


I know that I'm gonna die but I would rather not be strapped to a block of rock when I do.


MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Apr 30, 2015 - 06:38am PT
A parting thought: us old farts that have been climbing for 40 years need to pay attention to the basics. I had a couple of doofus moments today, probably due to the excitement of rope soloing after so long not having done it.

My wife tells me that anyone with more than 20 years of experience and no accidents is a ticking time-bomb of complacency.

I hope to prove her wrong for quite a bit longer...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Apr 30, 2015 - 06:56am PT
My wife tells me that anyone with more than 20 years of experience and no accidents is a ticking time-bomb of complacency.

I hope to prove her wrong for quite a bit longer...


last year, after 43 years of climbing, I was involved in two accidents in two weeks (on consecutive outings).

that averages out to one every 20 years or so: 5% chance per year... if you take a frequentist's point of view, haven't analyzed it as a Bayesian yet. In that 40 years represents 1228 outings and about 2400 pitches of technical rock climbing... so perhaps the probability, for me, of being involved in an injury accident is 2/1228 = 0.0016 or 0.16% per outing, and 0.0008 or 0.08% per pitch.

I was involved in the accidents, partners were injured... they can post up if they want.

It's not complacency that gets you, it's the numbers... if you go to Vegas you'll eventually loose to the house no matter how attentive you are.

Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
  Apr 30, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
A parting thought: us old farts that have been climbing for 40 years need to pay attention to the basics.

A'int that the truth.




rbord

Boulder climber
atlanta
  Apr 30, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
Thanks for the post and the warning. Way to get out there and glad all is good!

Ed I like your math! Having never been involved in an accident myself, I calculate my probability of an injury accident to be 0.00%. Wait, maybe my belief in the math is the problem. :-)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Apr 30, 2015 - 07:31pm PT
limestone bump
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Apr 30, 2015 - 09:21pm PT
rboard,
look at this thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=319605&msg=319605#msg319605

where I had estimated (from ANAM) that I had a 0.1% prob of being involved in an accident
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Author's Reply  Apr 30, 2015 - 11:26pm PT
Thanks for the feedback, everyone. I have to say, my phone's camera really sucks!

Norwegian:
"all along i thought
that i was attached,
though i'm infinitely
detached."

Reading this as a Buddhist, I'd say good for you. I hope that you're getting some satisfaction from it. Thanks!

Ed:
This frequentist calculation makes sense if the time series of your accident history is stationary and ergodic for the mean. Stationarity means that the mean (true probability of an accident on any outing or pitch) stays constant over time. This is what I'm questioning. I would say that the probability of an accident as a beginner is no doubt relatively high. Then it probably goes down as one becomes more experienced. However, I think that it may climb up again, eventually, for many of us, especially if we climb less frequently than we used to.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Apr 30, 2015 - 11:26pm PT
mcreel,
there is no correlation of frequency of accidents and years of experience climbing (in the ANAM tables).

mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Author's Reply  Apr 30, 2015 - 11:39pm PT
Ed: that may be, but if the relationship were U shaped, the overall (unconditional) correlation could be close to zero, as it would be integrating over initially declining probabilities, and eventually increasing probabilities.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  May 1, 2015 - 08:06am PT
I understand the conditional probability, one can construct the appropriate probability from the tables... when I did that I was surprised to find that experience wasn't a major factor in accident probability.

rbord

Boulder climber
atlanta
  May 1, 2015 - 12:23pm PT
Thanks Ed!

I find myself in btwn you and Werner, tending more towards believing that things happen for a reason (that we might not understand) than because of random risks.

When you conclude that complacency is not the relevant risk - that the risk is just a random numbers game spread equally over all of your outings - did we measure complacency and saw there was no correlation? How did we distinguish between 1) older climbers accurately understanding that complacency is the risk and working harder to mitigate it as they matured and 2) complacency is not a risk and the risk is just random over time regardless of complacency. Does our belief that complacency is a bigger risk as we get older (which you're saying is an untrue belief, or at least an irrational belief?) protect us from the actual real true risk of complacency? The numbers that you say will eventually get you - why do you believe those numbers are not complacency numbers?

This kind of thinking always messes me up :-)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  May 1, 2015 - 08:21pm PT
I'm saying it is an unsupported belief... it sounds like a fine idea, but it would seem that the test of it, in terms of the history of climbing accidents, does not support it.

Similarly, the widely held belief that if you do everything "right" that you will not have an accident. This plays out many times in the accident threads, where the replies are directed to identifying what the climber did wrong.

Sometimes the climber did nothing wrong.

Climbing is a complex set of activities performed in a hazardous setting. It would be difficult to reduce the cause of accidents to some rather simple thing like "complacency" or "inexperience." The fact that there are relatively few accidents is an interesting observation in its own right, and one wonders what inference can be drawn from that.
rbord

Boulder climber
atlanta
  May 2, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
Thanks Ed!

Sorry, when you presented that mathematical analysis of the data in the ANAM combined with your own personal experience, and then followed that with a (concluding) statement that it's not complacency, it's the numbers, I was confused and thought that you meant they were related and that the data supported your "conclusion". I'm still a little confused about how that data works as a test of it (complacency as a climbing danger) since I don't think that we really have any data on how they're related.

Yea, I think generally that climbers do a good job of mitigating the dangers of climbing. I think of it more as danger than risk. Complacency does seem like one of the dangers to me. Probably hard to measure. Neuroscience though - maybe we'll have better data soon :-)
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