Trip Report
Hans and Alex Crush The Nose Speed Record with Photos
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Monday June 18, 2012 8:59pm
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I wanted to post this in a trip report so it doesn't get missed in a thread.
Congrats Hans and Alex, you guys CRUSHED it!!
That was way better than I expected. I thought they'd break it by a few minutes (what has typically happened the last few times the record was broken), and if everything went perfect perhaps they could break 2:30, which is almost 7 minutes faster. But 2:23:46, almost 13 minutes faster??!! Wow! It's funny how everyone's comment was they "crushed it". No other words could describe it.
Thanks Jeff (fattrad) for the campsite! One of the best sites in the park, you know how to work it!
Great to meet you Dean (Cragman), Doug (Flanders) and Paden. That was a fun campfire session! I'm sorry I didn't get a chance to say a proper goodbye, I thought I'd see you in the meadow. Hope to see you again, and I'll let you know next time I head down the East side (rarely unfortunately).
Once they were on the wall my eyes were pretty much glued to the binoculars or my tracking sheet the whole time, so I'm a little bummed I didn't get a chance to meet and talk to so many other cool people that were there.
They started at 5:51AM
Here's the splits in H:M-
0:18 to sickle (right on pace)
0:45 Hans to Dolt! 5 minutes off their 6/14/12 pace, I knew something special was happening
1:12 Hans and Alex to Eagle Ledge about halfway. 9 minutes off 6/14/12 time, probably 6 minutes off record pace, they were in great shape.
1:44 Alex to Camp 5
1:48 Hans to Camp 5 previous pace 2:03-2:11
When they were near the top and the time was still reading under 2:20 I knew they not only had the record but were going to blow it away.
2:23:46, I had 2:23 and change on my watch and Hans radioed the actual time from the summit.
Hans led from the start to Eagle Ledge with Alex arriving at about 1:12, in ONE pitch with about 16 cams.
Alex led the rest in ONE pitch, in about 1:12 as well.
I believe they both knocked about 6 minutes of their "pitch" from 6/14. What great teamwork, they both led about 1/2 the route, in 1/2 the time, and knocked off 1/2 the time. Cool!
As mentioned there were about 200 people in the meadow and on the bridge. What a fun time!
They only had to pass one party, who waited under the Great Roof until they passed. Update: I didn't see it, but I they also passed a party at Camp VI.
Sorry, these pics are kinda big. Sorry about the watermark, I've had stuff posted online reused without my permission and that bugs me.
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Here's a video Joe Beaver posted on YouTube with a telescope from El Cap Meadow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYtdiFeucYA
Check out Paul Hara's awesome photos from the summit and an interview with Hans here: http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39699
Here's a thread with Hans detailed trip report:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1862472/Very-detailed-Nose-Speed-Record-log
Here's a thread from the day of the climb:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1855399/Nose-Record
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Trip Report Views: 20,182 |
the Fet
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About the Author
the Fet is a climber from Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La. |
Comments
Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Jun 18, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
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Nice pics! Alex is looking honed!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 18, 2012 - 10:01pm PT
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Hell yeah. Hell. Yes.
Thanks for posting.
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Jingy
climber
Random Nobody
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Jun 18, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
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Amazing Trip Report!!!
Awesome photos.
And that last pic….
Stonemasters
Cheers all!!!
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Binks
climber
Uranus
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Jun 18, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
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The best thing about this is it looks like it was a lot of fun!
What could be better... break the record, have a blast...?
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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Jun 18, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
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Alex has cleaned one cam on the first pitch, so Hans has 15 left to get to eagle ledge.
Yikes.
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Brian
climber
California
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Jun 18, 2012 - 10:40pm PT
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So cool. It would be really interesting to hear where about each climber places one of those 16 cams, where there were fixed pieces to clip, and so on. Seems like with that light a rack they must have been climbing some sections with next to nothing between them!
Very impressive feat. Congrats to them both.
Brian
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Jun 18, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
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Awesome job! SShots! and love the laurel leaves like the first acsent of 1/2 dome. Super human effort!!!!!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Author's Reply
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Jun 19, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
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Edit: my previous post here was in reply to a comment, since deleted, saying this shouldn't have been posted as a Trip Report since I was reporting on someone else's climb.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jun 18, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
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yes, delete the thread, because your ego wasn't sufficiently obvious from the outset
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pc
climber
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Jun 18, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
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The Fet went to Yosemite and wrote a TR about an event that went on there. F*#kin' great TR. IMO
pc
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uhhuh
Social climber
nevada
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Jun 19, 2012 - 12:31am PT
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Great Trip Report....Eric...Did nott talk to his father and his mother used a "Eric, Eric" at the start if every conversation...Poor Eric.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 19, 2012 - 12:38am PT
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Nice shots!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Jun 19, 2012 - 01:27am PT
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Thanks for the TR
Folks this day was so truly amazing that I simply still cannot get enough of it...and I was there.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jun 19, 2012 - 01:29am PT
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Hey, thanks for the TR. Cool shots.
Climbing is great.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 19, 2012 - 01:36am PT
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Well it IS a nice Trip Report, you were there at the start with the men themselves.
Mr. E man, it was a moving experience, just like the superbowl, but with all skinny people drinking Seirra NV at 7 in the morning.
Good thing these pix are not buried, hard as hell to rebirth the goods from the bowels of the taco.
Over.
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dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
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Jun 19, 2012 - 02:05am PT
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Cool read, are people serious about is/isn't a TR? Nonsense. This is great. But, seems the photos have disappeared,... Any other way to see them?
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL,VA
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Jun 19, 2012 - 02:50am PT
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Really good pictures, thanks so much.
These guys make rock climbing look so easy, I think that's the scary part.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Author's Reply
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Jun 19, 2012 - 03:01am PT
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Thanks for all the kind words folks, I appreciate it.
dfinnecy, try refreshing your browser.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jun 19, 2012 - 03:17am PT
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Awesome photos dude!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jun 19, 2012 - 03:25am PT
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Thanks for the photos. It surprised me to see so much stuff clipped on the first pitch, and Alex working the rope. They must do that stuff really quickly - we need video!
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Jun 19, 2012 - 07:44am PT
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Video yes. And there IS video out there somewhere. Give it up, people.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jun 19, 2012 - 09:09am PT
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Thanks Fet - cool shots!
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
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Jun 19, 2012 - 10:14am PT
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Amazing.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jun 19, 2012 - 11:02am PT
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Wait a minute, someone bitched about this being a "trip report"?
Well my guess is that if Hans and Alex aren't posting, then somebody needs to post a "report" about their "trip".
Whatevz, congratulations boys, nicely done. I led 30 pitches in 8 days recently, am I almost as cool as they are? HA!!!
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jun 19, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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wow, that is SO amazing and thanks for sharing. I like the picts, exp the last.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Jun 19, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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Smart wearing a helmet. Didn't seem to slow down the effort. Congrats from Seoul South Korea!
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Jun 19, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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What a treat to be in El Cap meadow and watch this amazing event. very cool !
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thetennisguy
Mountain climber
Yuba City, CA
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Jun 19, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
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Congratulations!! Awesome and Amazing job! I think we all know you would break the record, but it's how you did it and by how much ... well ... stunning! World Class !
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Jun 19, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
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Nice vid! Now the nose in a day parties are getting passed, who would have expected.
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Jun 19, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
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Killer pics. Very cool.
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FetBro
climber
Malibu, CA
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Jun 19, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
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Great photos and TR little brother! Thanks for sharing the experience with those who couldn't be there. Of course you're gonna get crap from people no matter what you post. About 10% of the people on the internet seem to be haters and trolls. It doesn't seem to matter what forum you're on. So the rule applies: "Don't Feed the Trolls"
And yes...thanks Jeff (fattrad) for the campsite! It was great to meet and hang out with you Dean (Cragman), Doug (Flanders) and Paden.
Congrats to Alex and Hans! So cool how they both led half the climb and that they both shaved crucial time off for each section. Happy Birthday to Hans (6/18) You help me realize that 48 years does not mean we have to slow down!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 19, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
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more video please..
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Author's Reply
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Jun 19, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
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Fantastic video Petah!
How amazing is it that Alex can and will shoot the sh#t with fellow climbers while climbing by on a world record attempt.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jun 19, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
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Nice photos, and the video was pretty cool too! I didn't want it to stop.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 19, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
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How amazing is it that Alex can and will shoot the sh#t with fellow climbers while climbing by on a world record attempt.
That was my thought. Never met 'im but I think I like this kid.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Jun 19, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
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More video!!!
Total Class when taking that long break in your NIAD effort!!
You guys were the subject of more than a few conversations in the Meadow..
Oh I hope they don't start the roof yet.. I think they must know what is happening and want a front row seat.
So freaking cool to see this video..
Grats on climbing through the night..and nabbing the NIAD! you guys have super powerful headlamps.. actually put spots in my eyes from the meadow!!
MORE VIDEO!!!
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nita
Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
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Jun 19, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
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The Fet, Thanks for the Trip report and Pictures...very cool!!
Petah, Thanks for the Video!!...you must have more?
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Jun 19, 2012 - 06:41pm PT
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That's right, part two of this video must be a butt shot of them climbing the great roof.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jun 19, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
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So, I've got an algebraic, SAT-type question.
Let's just say I could climb the Nose in 27 hours (haven't done it) and I could currently do 17 pullups, 15 bar-dips, and 127 deep-knee bends in a row. The question is...how many pullups, bar-dips, and deep-knee bends in a row would I have to do to contemplate going after the current Nose speed record? And also, do you think I would need to do something different, in say, my diet (I'm currently 190 lbs)?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Jun 19, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
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Good question!
After long and exhastive study involving consultation with many experts...
Looks to me like you will need several reincarnations to achieve something similar to this.
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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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Jun 19, 2012 - 08:27pm PT
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Great video, but seriously...he's just casually walking up the route...and holding a bloody conversation while he's doing it. At my absolute best BITD, I made 5.9 look desperate. This is amazing.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jun 19, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
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Bump for more video, even if it's a bum shot.
You call this a TR???
Just kidding! Thanks!
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kjweiland
Trad climber
mammoth lakes, ca
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Jun 19, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
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Thanks climbsk2, petah and I had no idea we where going to have prime seats for the show intel we pulled into el cap meadow to start our adventure. No way would we hold up a show like that!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 20, 2012 - 11:44am PT
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More Video, that was ever so good!
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 20, 2012 - 11:58am PT
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There is really nothing to compare to the sound of 200 people cheering "GO GO GO" while pinching off your morning poop on El Cap. An experience I will never forget. Was fun to be up there during this event, Alex and Hans were done before I had my 2nd cup of coffee on the ledge. Pretty amazing. Congrats!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jun 20, 2012 - 12:14pm PT
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MORE VIDEO!!!
And congrats to the filmmakers too!!
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Don Paul
Social climber
Washington DC
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Jun 20, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
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Newsflash: Hans Florine writes on his facebook page, that he plans to write up a detailed trip report within the next few days. Stay tuned.
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Magic D
Trad climber
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Jun 26, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
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Great pictures, Chris! What a day!! It was exciting to be there and watch it happen. Extremely proud, both to be related to such an outstanding athlete (this is Alex's mom), and to know such a terrific bunch of folks (climbers). I've really enjoyed meeting and getting to know you.
The day after this triumph, Alex climbed w/me and my friends on Daff Dome, and then led us up Matthes Crest 2 days later. That must have been the biggest change-of-pace come-down in history!...but he was great about it.
I look forward to Hans' Trip Report. And more pictures!
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Francesca Drake
Trad climber
California,Truckee
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Jun 26, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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Wow great shots Thanks for the pictures. ;D
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Jun 26, 2012 - 07:25pm PT
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Welcome Magic D! Your son is an amazing climber for sure but more importantly he seems like a genuinely good guy the few times I have bumped into him.
Congrats on Mathes BTW spectacular and fun route.
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couchmaster
climber
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Jun 26, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
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petah, great location for a video . Historic, thanks for sharing that. Must have been awesome to catch that scene run right past you:-) You guys looked like you were doing pretty nice on the route as well.
FET, THANKS FOR SHARING THOSE PICS MAN!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 29, 2012 - 01:20am PT
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Bumpitty bump for a way honed send
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