Trip Report
Hampi Bouldering (running) TR - Pilgrimage part two. 2/2011
Wednesday February 23, 2011 12:30am
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We left Mysore via car three days ago. Traveling the roads of India makes a trip to even the Cirque via car seem vanilla. Countless times it seemed we'd be a fly on the windshield of so many busses. But our driver, James, has his driving chops down.
It's like just about everyone has Krishna sitting on their shoulder as they navigate the roads. "Just don't hit anything" is the road mantra. 250 km one day, 300 the next, followed by a 400 km pedal to the metal let's-just-get-there push.
Be sure to share the road!
I've learned a number of things on this journey. One is that apparently we're not the only "monkeys" that like beer. More on that later.
Along the way I was kissed by an elephant. The cheap hussie wanted two rupees for one smack on the forehead. And she slobbers.
The horns of India eventually become background music. It takes little time before you don't really notice them. That is until they stop.
We arrived late into Hampi, caught a decent nights sleep and crossed the river in the morning. Then the quiet began. The energy dropped nine notches.
I recall in Jamaica my divemaster pointing out that they have two speeds - slow, and stop. India also has two speeds - fast and faster! Hampi is different. Rice paddies and westerners dot this landscape.
We settled into our huts, I caught a nap, and then I could take it no longer. It was time to pull out the brand new pair of TC's and go find the boulders. I fell in love with these shoes the moment the touched rock. Finally a climbing shoe that fits!
We've made a new friend here in India, a very good friend. His name is Sudhamaraj - Sudhama. He's a deeply spiritual man. He walked the streets and hills of India for three years as a Sadhu. He was a Baba initiated in Varanasi. Now he is a householder. When his children leave the house he'll return to his life as a renunciate.
He redifines the word "hard core" Be bares the marks of his devotion - 18 scars received in 10 minutes with "no medicine". A 30 rupee tuk tuk ride turned into a lifetime friendship. If any of y'all ever ever ever Travel to Mysore this is the man you want to have show you around. His honesty knows no bounds. He's knowledge of India, spiritual practice is comparable.
The boulders here are endless. Sharma came here a few years back with a posse, produced a film, and called it Pilgrimage. Sundhara and I had our A game on so we're working in Pilgrimage part two. We figured warm up on some V5's and then work our way to flashing a few of Sharma's routes and then after we flail miserably downgrade them two grades (I've learned a ton from Russ Walling). Mission complete - sorta. There were only two problems with this plan, 1) Sundhara has never climbed before and, 2) I've not climbed in 8 months. But why over look the little details in the interest of a good story? We sent a couple V2s, smoked a few beedies and called it a day.
For 50 rupees you can rent a bouldering pad, for 50 more some shoes. The pads are trashed but they have a very impressive selection of shoes (not kidding). There's also a decent guidebook you can buy online for $3. It's worth the rupees.
Skip the egg boulders if you come here as they are surrounded by sh#t. The "Middle" Plateau boulders are pretty good. The rock quality is excellent.
We're off to the Hanuman Temple for today. His birthplace. I think I'll stay here an extra week just for the boulders.
nature
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About the Author nature is a climber from whereverland. |
Comments
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:36am PT
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Very Cool Doug, thanks.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:42am PT
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You could rent the elephant, and jump to the top of the boulder with the hardest problem. Thats like sending. Hang from the top out holds and take a photo, nobody will know any better!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:48am PT
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Thanks for the great photos and all the wonderful memories they brought back!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:57am PT
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"Donini would hate this place."
Hahahaha
Have fun Doug and Tina
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Feb 23, 2011 - 01:06am PT
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Thanks!
He was a Baba initiated in Varanasi.
Some long-lost relative of Karl's, perhaps.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Republic, WA
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Feb 23, 2011 - 02:50am PT
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I told you to watch out for those monkeys.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Feb 23, 2011 - 03:03am PT
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Glad you're having a good time...
India really is a special place if you open up and embrace the
craziness of it all.
It is a place that would be, and is so easy to just say, "ah f#ck it, this place sucks...", but then you'd be the loser for sure.
Cheers nature boy and keep at it!
Thanks for the TR!
DD
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Disaster Master
Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
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Feb 23, 2011 - 05:24am PT
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Looks like great fun. How did you size your new shoes? I tried them TC's on, felt nice.
Light some incense for me, or whatever it is you do in those temples....
-Paul
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Author's Reply
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Feb 23, 2011 - 05:33am PT
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Summit Hut finally had them in stock so I was able to try them on. My days of climbing V19 and 5.17b- are over so I sized them to be comfy. I'm tired of my toes hurting and so I went with a little looser. IF they prove to be too loose and only good for moderate long routes I'll get another pair that's a half size smaller.
For the most part I'm not resisting the madness of India. Though it is quiet here in Hampi and we are staying a few extra days. Now that I know what Mysore is like I'll be prepared for when I go back. After that we're off to the coast of Karala. We are having a good time shopping, have clothes made, eventually we'll have some jewelry made.
Every time I eat a $1 meal I feel like I've put more money in the bank. $16 night for a nice clean hut is a pretty nice deal as well.
We sat with the guruji at the Hanuman temple today and had tea. He approved of my new tattoo (I was a little worried). It's sorta funny - a Hanuman devotee asks if I know about hanuman and I just show them my tattoo.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 23, 2011 - 06:10am PT
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Very Very Very nice!!
I always loved traveling overseas (almost always..)and absorbing a place.
international- check
spiritual- check
climbing- check!!
Keep having fun and keep us posted Nature!!
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Jingy
climber
Random Nobody
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Feb 23, 2011 - 10:48am PT
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F'n awesome, dude....
More pictures...
Nice Barefoot sender... That's fa'real!
Cheers Nature
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
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Thanks nature,
Sweet pics, nice stoned.... er stone.....;)
-e
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Author's Reply
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
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welcome!
and nope! I've yet to get stoned in India. I'm just puffin a beedie.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 23, 2011 - 01:52pm PT
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Thanks, Doug, for bringing me up close to wild boulders, elevated company and elephant kisses.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Author's Reply
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Feb 24, 2011 - 10:33am PT
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Sent a few more V2s today. One was a most excellent highball. Pictures in a bit.
downgraded a few more of Sharma's routes - all to V1
News for the day/week/month/year/century.
Tina has been accepted into ASU as well as.....
oh oh oh....
CalArts!
Valencia here we come! (in 5 months)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 24, 2011 - 10:38am PT
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Cool trip! keep the reports coming but don't jump the elephant...
IF they prove to be too loose and only good for moderate long routes I'll get another pair that's a half size smaller.
That's what I did. I've got a pair of 40's for all day goodness, and a pair of 39.5's for the biddness. for reference, I wear a 38.5 mythos.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Author's Reply
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Feb 24, 2011 - 10:42am PT
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Today was my second day wearing them. I have a little pain on the outside of my foot but not in the toes. No pain in the toes is a first in a long long time. Worth the money
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Feb 24, 2011 - 10:57am PT
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Thanks for sharing your adventure. I almost feel like I'm there.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Author's Reply
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Feb 25, 2011 - 05:03am PT
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went out again yesterday. I rented Sudhama a pair of shoes. Nice pair of size 8 mocasyms. The rubber almost melted off of them.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Feb 25, 2011 - 10:35am PT
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Nice stuff Nature, glad you are over there experienced India.
You are not so far from the Isha yoga center/ashram. I highly recommend a meditation pilgrimage to the Dhyanalinga.
Peace,
-JW
Edit: I had the India map in my head a little shuffled. the Isha center is about 3 hours south of Mysore.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Feb 25, 2011 - 10:42am PT
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nice nature, thanks for the tr, sounds like a must visit.
nice follow up on the tat too. AND now I know what a beedie, isn't?
(Just bumped India to the top of the list, edging out Morocco.)
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Author's Reply
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Feb 25, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
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J... we're actually going to head south from Mysore to Karala in a few weeks so we'll look to see if we can swing by. It looks amazing.
Well it turns out there is a whole posse of pad-people running around. apparently they, unlike me, are smart enough to not go out in the middle of the day. I'll find them in the next few days.
is about 3 hours south of Mysore.
by what mode of transportation? ;-)
3 hours by most modes means it's right round the corner.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 24, 2011 - 09:55am PT
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Great to hear from you Doug, especially since it looks like you're having such a fine time. Keep the stories and pictures coming.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Author's Reply
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Mar 23, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
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Thanks and will do!
BTW.... I'm on the Indian Diet plan. I've probably lost 15 pounds and it's not been in a pretty way.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 23, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
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Nice report. Hampi looks amazing. Not just the boulders (though they look awesome) but the whole scene. Such a nice contrast to the craziness up north. Had I known about it when I was there in '92, I would have gone in a heartbeat.
Careful with that "Indian diet." It took me a long time before my GI tract starting feeling somewhat normal.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Author's Reply
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Mar 24, 2011 - 02:42am PT
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I'm off the India diet now. day four of a nuclear attack on my GI with some pretty strong antibiotics and antimocrobial meds.
I just didn't plan on losing 10 lbs in 10 days.
but I'll be back at fighting weight soon. too bad my arms are turning to sticks.
I can't wait for thailand..... Panang and limestone!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Mar 24, 2011 - 03:04am PT
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If it weren't for the stomach problems, India and Nepal would truly be paradise in my books.
As it were, I've always said that one day I would get one stomach ache to many, and then I would be done.
I've sworn off going there several times but always feel called back. My trips get fewer and fewer however, for just that reason.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Author's Reply
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Mar 24, 2011 - 03:23am PT
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This was my second round with stomach issues. 12 days and counting. On top of that I caught a head cold early on.
I rarely get sick and I have a pretty strong stomach.
India is dirty. The air, the water, the ground, the food, the noise. But through all of that there's a beauty unlike anything I've ever seen.
Walking this morning past the piles and piles of trash everywhere these yellow sweet smelling flowers were falling from the trees all around us. You could see past the filth and down an India road covered with yellow flowers with a few people walking around beginning their day. If you smile they will smile back. It's so sweet...
I'm heading to Kerala Sunday. Tina will (maybe) join me in two weeks. She's finishing her yoga trainings but I'm sad to say I can't finish. Working full time from a third world country is taxing. There's times I just want to leave this side of the planet.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Mar 24, 2011 - 09:14am PT
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nature-
If antibiotics doesn't sort it out in 12 days than you most likely have a parasite, either giardia or amoebas. You need to go to a clinic and leave a sample to be analyzed. Parasites take entirely different meds than a bacterial infection.
Particularly if you feel good for a few days and then it zaps you for a few days and then your're good until the next time, it's likely to be amoebas. Parasites make you irritable and depressed as well.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Author's Reply
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Mar 24, 2011 - 09:29am PT
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no no.... I didn't start the meds until Monday... by Wednesday I was already improving greatly and today I'm feeling fine. Five day cycle on them ends tomorrow.
Though I am a bit irritable :-)
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ZachW
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 24, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
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Ahh, fond memories of days at the Goan Corner. Enjoy, you lucky bastard.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Mar 24, 2011 - 12:46pm PT
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Great Tr, Doug!
CalArts!
Valencia here we come! (in 5 months)
Yay! :)
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 24, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
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Hang in there with the stomach issues Nature. While I started wondering whether I had dysentary (bloody stool), mine eventually cleared up by itself though in retrospect I probably should have seen someone about it. With all that weight loss, think how hard you'll pull once you get your strength back.
I hit Thailand on the way home and it seemed like Paradise (note the capital P). Sitting on the beach on Koh Samui, eating crab fried rice and not having to worry about getting sick. Absolutely awesome.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Mar 25, 2011 - 10:22am PT
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Glad to hear the antibiotics are working!
You definitely don't want parasites if you can avoid them.
I don't know what you are doing about water, but I filter even bottled water in that part of the world now. They make really good fake bottled water so always check the seal and make them bring a sealed bottle. They've been known in both India and Nepal to fill used water bottles out of the tap.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Mar 25, 2011 - 06:53am PT
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They fill water bottles with tap water in America too- just sayin
wicked tr!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Mar 25, 2011 - 09:06am PT
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That's good stuff, Doug. Looks like a blast.
TFPU!!! Diggin' it!
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Author's Reply
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Mar 25, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
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Fat Dad wrote
think how hard you'll pull once you get your strength back.
I know I know.... But the sad thing is I brought a fair amount of extra weight to lose. I'd crush a diet challenge at this rate.
And we have the same plan. Koh Samui for two months after this. There's rock and scuba.
We're using the Steripen for water. We do double check the water bottles but we've yet to see even one bottle that is suspect.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 25, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
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And we have the same plan. Koh Samui for two months after this. There's rock and scuba. Two months!? That's a long time for Koh Samui. Not that much rock--mostly polished granite without any big features--though I can't speak for the diving. Maybe it's getting more built up since I've been. Actually, who am I kidding, of course it's more built up, everyplace is.
My time there was pretty veg though. Make up breakfast. Nap or snorkel. Lunch. Nap or snorkle. Dinner. Repeat. One guy there called it "terminal boredom." A good kind of boredome, but after a week or so I was ready for a change of scenery.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Author's Reply
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Mar 26, 2011 - 05:24am PT
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I guess I meant 2 months in Thailand. We have some business in bankok to take care of. plus we are hunting for some red stones. I also want to check out the limestone climbing in other parts.
mmmm.... Panang Shrimp.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Author's Reply
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Mar 26, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
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first time around they vanished on their own.
after a week where it got worse and worse it was time to do something.
Flying in I noticed some steep limestone (?) cliffs. Where in Kerala are you referring to the sea cliffs? I'll be in Kovalum for a few days but want to check out other places. Varkala perhaps.
I did the jailbreak/unlocking on my iphone. Thanks so much (coz) for talking me into bringing that! And thanks to Pate for the support on doing the jailbreak. FU AT&T! Take Dat!
Dabby Doo!
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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May 11, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
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Thanks.
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