Trip Report
Hall of Mirrors weekend 9/27-29, 2014
Tuesday October 21, 2014 2:14pm
I've been wanting to spend some time on Hall of Mirrors for a while, but I couldn't convince any of my friends to join me even though it's the best slab climb in the world (I guess they want to get on Freerider instead, or something), so I decided to do it myself.

The plan was to fly out to Fresno from Boulder, drive up to Glacier Point, rap in from the top, and micro-trax the route while working my way down. I got the inspiration after reading Clint Cummins' trip report on rebolting HoM. Unfortunately, the forecast decayed after I bought my plane tickets, which limited my climbing quite a bit. I still had a fantastic weekend though.

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Hall of Mirrors goes up just to the left of Goodrich Pinnacle. I'll be...
Hall of Mirrors goes up just to the left of Goodrich Pinnacle. I'll be starting at the bottom of the cleft at the top.
Credit: GearLoopTopo.com
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Clint Cummins put together this very useful description for dropping i...
Clint Cummins put together this very useful description for dropping into HoM. It took me about 2.5 hours to get to the bottom of the u-shaped bowl with a 90lb sack and route finding.
Credit: Xrez, annotated by Clint Cummins
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My flight landed early Saturday morning, and I arrived at the Point at...
My flight landed early Saturday morning, and I arrived at the Point at 1pm, ready to descend. The weather was overcast, but mostly stable.
Credit: AlanDoak
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The tourons had no idea what they were looking at.
The tourons had no idea what they were looking at.
Credit: AlanDoak
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Descending down the gully. 3rd and 4th class scrambling with a 90lb sa...
Descending down the gully. 3rd and 4th class scrambling with a 90lb sack is a biatch!
Credit: AlanDoak
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I arrived at the top of the climb about 4pm, right as a big rainstorm ...
I arrived at the top of the climb about 4pm, right as a big rainstorm hit. The cleft drained about 50 feet to climber's right of me, so I was able to stay out of the river.
Credit: AlanDoak
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It rained all Saturday night, but Sunday morning had a bit of sun to d...
It rained all Saturday night, but Sunday morning had a bit of sun to dry out my gear before dropping in.
Credit: AlanDoak
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Slab climbing! This is what I came here for! I rigged up pitches 11, 1...
Slab climbing! This is what I came here for! I rigged up pitches 11, 12 and 13 with two ropes, and micro-traxed these pitches. My portaledge can be seen below at the top of pitch 10, this picture was taken at the top of pitch 12.
Credit: AlanDoak
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This picture was taken while toprope soloing, at the top of pitch 11. ...
This picture was taken while toprope soloing, at the top of pitch 11. The clouds were looking ominous, but waited until I was finished with this block and got back down to my portaledge.
Credit: AlanDoak
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I finished climbing 11-13, and got back to my camp at the top of 10 ri...
I finished climbing 11-13, and got back to my camp at the top of 10 right as it started raining again. It was fine where I was, but you wouldn't want to be next to Goodrich Pinnacle in a rain storm.
Credit: AlanDoak
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It was magical to watch the clouds move in and out, and a fine consola...
It was magical to watch the clouds move in and out, and a fine consolation to not getting to climb as much as I had planned.
Credit: AlanDoak
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Credit: AlanDoak
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Sunset.
Sunset.
Credit: AlanDoak
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The wind howled all Sunday night, and sure enough, Monday dawned as a ...
The wind howled all Sunday night, and sure enough, Monday dawned as a brilliant bluebird day. Unfortunately, I had a 1:30pm shuttle bus to catch back up to Glacier Point so that I could catch my 7pm flight.
Credit: AlanDoak
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I fixed the bottom 3 pitches of the route, and had a fun top rope sess...
I fixed the bottom 3 pitches of the route, and had a fun top rope session. These pitches are low angle, but glassy smooth, hard to read the sequence and really run out.
Credit: AlanDoak
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Every pitch on this route is as good or better than any slab climb I'v...
Every pitch on this route is as good or better than any slab climb I've ever done... and there's 16 of them!
Credit: AlanDoak
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I can't wait to get back on this route. I don't know if I'd ever send the whole thing, but I'd certainly have fun spending time on the route.

Special thanks to Clint Cummins for providing beta and inspiration for this trip, and to all those involved with replacing every single bolt on this amazing route.

  Trip Report Views: 4,633
AlanDoak
About the Author
AlanDoak is a climber from Boulder, CO.

Comments
Matt's

climber
  Oct 21, 2014 - 02:19pm PT
nice!
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
  Oct 21, 2014 - 02:19pm PT
werd
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Oct 21, 2014 - 02:32pm PT
Solid lil adventure ya had yerself right there. Way to get off the couch and go get rad with no too much to work with. A proud outing for sure. Thanks for the write up and let us know how it goes when you head back to fire it off proper!

Scott
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Oct 21, 2014 - 02:37pm PT
Wow. Way to get after it on your own man!

That takes stoke!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Oct 21, 2014 - 03:51pm PT
Way cool!
It can be hard to find partners for hard slab, although I recall Mikey Schaefer said he is interested in trying Hall of Mirrors.
I like your "Plan B" - very self sufficient.
It had to be a big adventure getting down to the top with that heavy haul bag.
Too bad the weather cut your time short.
But that p13 looks so amazing - good that you got on it.
p10 looks really cool, too. Next time?
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Oct 21, 2014 - 04:12pm PT
Way to get after it! Thanks for the report and pictures.

Big thanks to Clint, as well for anchor replacement.
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  Oct 21, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
Sweet!
I love your psych to get on such a big project alone.

Has this thing seen any repeats?
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Oct 21, 2014 - 04:18pm PT
What the f*#k is micro trax?
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Oct 21, 2014 - 07:48pm PT
Wow, getting on HoM solo is a cool idea!

"would not want to be next to Goodrich Pinnacle in a rainstorm"

No sh*t. The late Tom Burke and I rapelled 6 pitches of that thing in a down pour.. It was a life changing experience.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Oct 29, 2014 - 02:32pm PT
slabomatic is a mania trippy great report
I also loved your photo of the East buttress
that ones cool
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Oct 21, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
Roger really did the main work on the bolt replacement,
but Chris Cantwell and I had fun doing that initial trip down from the top.

microtrax = Petzl MicroTraxion - kind of like an ascender which
is great for belaying yourself on a fixed rope.
Their earlier model is the MiniTraxion.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1038522/Petzl-Mini-Traxion-Self-Belay-Human-Error-almost-tragedy
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 21, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
You have a huge sac!!!!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Oct 21, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
Solo stoke!

Way to get way out there.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Oct 21, 2014 - 07:34pm PT
Nice solo effort. Very cool.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
  Oct 21, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
Awesome adventure and attitude to get it done. Hopefully with this report, it'll be easier to find partners next time :). That is, if you still want a partner for it!
hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
  Oct 21, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
dang, such sweet granite!
bergbryce

climber
East Bay, CA
  Oct 21, 2014 - 09:25pm PT
What a cool idea! Way to get after it.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Oct 21, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
Very nice work and TR - and a great and original way to enjoy that territory solo. Thanks for the TR.

John
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Oct 21, 2014 - 11:27pm PT
slablike!

did you hear any voices coming at you from up canyon? weird dark iron craft is practiced up canyon.

wild adventure

shades of Rohrer stylings
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Oct 21, 2014 - 11:49pm PT
Awesome to see a unique trip like this! Looks like you made some great memories that definitely make up for the missed climbing. Thanks for sharing!
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Oct 22, 2014 - 05:36am PT
That is a great adventure! Well done.
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Oct 22, 2014 - 07:18am PT
All alone on the Hall of Mirrors. Pretty wild!
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Redwood City
  Oct 22, 2014 - 07:38am PT
wow !! awesome TR !
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Oct 22, 2014 - 08:03am PT

that's one hell of an awesome Plan B!!

Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
  Oct 22, 2014 - 08:28am PT
Plan B's rarely are knott adventures.

Excellent!
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
  Oct 22, 2014 - 08:37am PT
A downhill adventure : )
AlanDoak

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Author's Reply  Oct 22, 2014 - 11:03am PT
Thanks for all the positive comments!

To clarify my self belay setup, I was using 2 unmodified micro-traxions, with stopper knots tied every 30' or so in case both devices somehow locked open. No chest harness. The primary trax was attached snuggly to my harness with 5mm cord, and the secondary trax was trailing on a locking biner.

Reeotch, as far as my research turned up, there's only been 3 ascents: Cantwell/Burke 80, Woodward/Bercaw 10/92, Honnold 10/19/2011. I think it's due to a combination of factors: slab being less popular, pucker factor on the bottom pitches, and fear of rockfall.

I confess, I backed off the 2nd pitch a long time ago. It wasn't just that it was runout (I'm used to that), it was also a different texture and angle from other slabs I had climbed. I had no confidence I wasn't going to fall. My next time on the route will probably involve climbing Goodrich and fixing lines on the top 7 pitches to run laps (Let me know if anyone is game, I'll fly out). I'm not proud, I'll headpoint this route.

As far as rockfall is concerned.... there's rockfall everywhere in the valley. Felix Kiernan died on the East Buttress of El Cap the very next day after my buddy and I climbed it. I think people associate the entire Apron with the big slides over on the right side. There's some blocks at the base of the climb, but no worse than many places we climb. It's part of the sport, and you decide where you're comfortable climbing.

With only 3 ascents (and Honnold not weighing in), there's not a whole lot of consensus on the grade. Plus the shoes make a big difference (TC Pros are amazing, btw). I can't compare it to any other slab I've ever done, it doesn't have the micro flakes/knobs or gritty friction that you find elsewhere. Pitches that were 5.10 felt hard, pitches that were 5.12 felt hard. I TR flashed The Thirteenth, but fell on 5.11. Nothing felt stopper, as opposed to Kauk Slab which shut me down.

Honnold reported being "really scared" and "gripped" on the Steel Wall pitch (11a) where the crux bolt (now replaced) was missing, how hard/insecure does something have to be to scare Alex with an 80' fall? I dunno. I do know that the climbing is really sustained, and it would require a lot of mental and physical stamina to lead this thing.

I wish I had a better idea how much traffic this route gets, but my impression is that it's not a lot. I hope this TR plays some small role in changing that.

le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Oct 22, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
Dig it. Love the style. Flight -> hike -> portaledge -> mini. Beautiful way to pull off a solo trip.
nopantsben

climber
europe
  Oct 29, 2014 - 11:16am PT
awesome stuff! hasen't had 1000 views yet - i guess no one even know this is in california.. ha ha.
good effort, thanks for posting the pics too :)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Oct 29, 2014 - 11:27am PT
Face limb madness! Cheers!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
  Oct 29, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
Funny what you said about the first few pitches, these are the ones I've been on! Really good stuff.

And yeah, hard to find folks stoked to get on the slabs, but what a joy.

Nice TR!
Ryan Tetz

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
  Oct 29, 2014 - 02:50pm PT
I'd get on this with yah.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
  Oct 29, 2014 - 03:01pm PT
Nice full adventure! Just going down and spending the night on the wall is major! I've heard some stories in the old days of carrying several pairs of shoes on the route and even of using bleach on the soles for the cruxs. Maybe true. You know more than lots of us now and good to see the photos and read about it...........Thanks!!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  May 12, 2016 - 12:17pm PT
Missed this. Cool trip!!! I love slabs.
SalNichols

Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
  May 12, 2016 - 04:06pm PT
Two friends and I got up the first three terrifying pitches years ago. Actually, the Brit got up it, and we fell our way up. We had one pair of shoes that would stick, so we lowered them off at each belay. As I recall, we were visited by a flying Earl Redfern...he grounded right near us. Bounced right up...convinced me to let the Brit lead that's for damn sure.
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