Trip Report
Half Domes RNWF: The day we found that pitch 11/12 was missing

by drwb
Wednesday July 8, 2015 12:36pm

July 5th, Scott Sinner and I woke up at 3:45 am for a car to car ascent of Half Dome's RNWF. This would be my 3rd time up the wall, Scott's first. Arriving to the base of HD, I noticed that the climbers trail no longer existed and some alterations to the spring at the base. I shrugged it off just thinking it was from the recent storms that have been coming though the Sierras.

Scott took the first block to the top of pitch 6. I took over from there since I was familiar with the route. After completing the Robbins Traverse we were exited to enter the chimneys and simul away. I moved out onto the face to climb pitch 11 (my least favorite pitch of the route). In go mode, I followed the terrain that was present. Soon I found myself 140 from the belay. It turned out I was climbing the down climbing portion of the free variation.

I remember yelling down to him at some point that I don't remember any of this. Yelling back "I thought you've climbed this before!"

I was so confused. Stopping and looking at the topo, I knew something was not right. I was lowed 60 feet from a block and was able to back clean some gear, untie, pull the rope and got back on belay.

There was some frustration between Scott and I. He was annoyed because I was wasting time and the fact that I do not see the obvious ledge system. I kept telling him, "Dude, there is nothing there!" I swung around on a pin to check thing out. That's when things dawned on me...the whole system flaked off.


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Looking up at the anchors for pitch 11.  Taken about 40 feet off the t...
Looking up at the anchors for pitch 11. Taken about 40 feet off the top of pitch 10
Credit: drwb
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I came back to the belay and Scott tied in to check things out. Yep... the whole ledge system was no more.

This is when I called Dave Miller. We climbed the route a few years ago and Dave knows the route better then anyone I knew. I asked him if he has heard anything about any rock fall on HD. He was blown away! After our conversation he went online to do some research. That's when he created this thread.

Scott and I were both stunned! We hung out at the belay for a good while, laughing and eating Sour Patch Kids before we started to bail.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

While bailing, everything started to make scene. The base, the broken trees and all the trash...

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Looking down at the damage
Looking down at the damage
Credit: drwb
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Retreat turned out to be not so bad. Scott and I have gotten good at retreating with one another, that's one thing we are good at. We only had a 60m and 2 grigris. We managed to get down with a mix of down climbing and rappelling. We bootied some bail gear from previous parties. When on the ground, we only left 1 nut and 2 carabiners from our own rack.

When packing up, we ran into a group of 3 foreigners who were going to climb the route the next day. They spoke little to no English. We tried to explain what has happened...we only hope they understood and did not attempt the route.

I really want to thank Dave Miller for getting the word out. I did not want anyone else to go up there and epic, get hurt or get rescued.

I believe that this happened during the recent stint of storms in the Sierras. This would explain why no one herd it and why we were the first to come across it.

We are still scratching our heads about the experience...but most of all, laughing about it.

Be careful out there yall! Next time you climb something, double check to see if its still there!

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Saying goodby to one of my favorite routes
Saying goodby to one of my favorite routes
Credit: drwb
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  Trip Report Views: 12,744
drwb
About the Author
drwb is a trad climber from Mammoth Lakes, CA.

Comments
overwatch

climber
Arizona
  Jul 8, 2015 - 12:43pm PT
Really amazing this crazy ass Sport
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  Jul 8, 2015 - 12:43pm PT
dust to dust
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jul 8, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
Followed it live so to speak a cool report , thanx.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Jul 8, 2015 - 12:50pm PT
We all know who gets credit for the First Ascent of the RNWF, but I wonder who got the Last Ascent?
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Jul 8, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
Thanks for the first-hand report. Crazy huge exfoliation!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Jul 8, 2015 - 12:55pm PT
So if a flake falls in the woods and no one sees it, does it make a sound?
Cool report, thanks.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Jul 8, 2015 - 01:14pm PT
Great report. Was it spooky - did you wonder if the top stuff was going to cut loose on you given what fell off already? This is the craziest TR ever. Thanks!
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Jul 8, 2015 - 01:25pm PT
It looks like if you were sleeping on the ledge that it might have just fallen away from you. The anchor looks okay.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 8, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
Thanks for separating this out into a TR. Great information.

John
jfailing

Trad climber
PDX
  Jul 8, 2015 - 01:30pm PT
It looks like if you were sleeping on the ledge that it might have just fallen away from you. The anchor looks okay.

That would be INSANE. A violent awakening in the middle of the night, hanging there in your harness...

So is the route still climbable?
JLP

Social climber
The internet
  Jul 9, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
It looks like if you were sleeping on the ledge that it might have just fallen away from you. The anchor looks okay.
One of my first thoughts as well - a night to remember...
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Jul 8, 2015 - 01:37pm PT
pitches 11-13 are now grade 2 talus. I'm going to say that the route will need to be regraded at some point down the line. Someone must be wacky enough to be racking up for the new first ascent as we speak. Looks blank. I'd take a grappling hook on a crossbow and shoot for the pitch 11 anchor and then go for a 70m' onsight pendulum swing. or not.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
  Jul 8, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
The whole darn thing is made of Corn Flakes, I say.
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Jul 8, 2015 - 02:07pm PT
So the ledge we all bivied on our first time up is gone? The one where people shoved loose rocks in to build the ledge?

Yikes.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Jul 8, 2015 - 02:22pm PT
"as first reported on Supertopo (™)"!!!

We saw a report on this rockfall on KTLA news last night - old news, man, we heard it here first. Quite amazing how the internet has changed the rapidity with which news spreads through the climbing world.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 8, 2015 - 02:27pm PT
Not my first route up the NWF, since I was determined to do the Direct as my first, but a weird ending to a place we all knew anyway.

Wow......
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Jul 8, 2015 - 02:30pm PT

Great stuff.
Glad you two got down okay!
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
  Jul 8, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
Incredible!

Interesting vision there, Flip Flop. Curious about the nature of the ledge... Would a bivy party normally tie in to that anchor body-wise to sleep on the ledge? If so, then yes, that would be an amazing, one in a gazillion experience, lol!!

Maybe only one in two would, or one in three? Imagine the survivor guilt of the one. Whew.

Wow! TFPU guys.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Jul 8, 2015 - 04:46pm PT
Best troll ever.

Just kidding.

Thanks for getting the word out so soon.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
  Jul 8, 2015 - 06:30pm PT
Looks like a job for Hensel!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Jul 8, 2015 - 08:03pm PT
hey there, say, ... wow, what a way to write a report, too... folks don't always get to do one, in this style, :)


thanks again and for your nice pics... :)
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Jul 9, 2015 - 03:44pm PT
Wow.... I distinctly remember that ledge and the short squeeze chimney at the right end of the ledge.

Glad no one was underneath that thing when it cut loose.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 10, 2015 - 03:45am PT
Thanks for getting the word out,
Wow!
Prod

Trad climber
  Jul 10, 2015 - 05:07am PT
Exciting.

Prod.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
  Jul 10, 2015 - 06:16am PT
Glad no one was underneath that thing when it cut loose.

We were going to be on July 24th. Disturbing. How would you know unless someone was reported missing?
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Jul 10, 2015 - 08:13am PT
Wow, thanks for the first hand report. The only thing constant is change.
Sula

Trad climber
Pennsylvania
  Jul 10, 2015 - 08:26am PT
Wired reports:
It wasn’t until July 5th that a pair of climbers over halfway up the 2,000 foot cliff face noticed that there was a massive section of missing rock preventing them from reaching the next place to anchor their rope. “There was a big dirt outline where the ledge was supposed to be,” wrote Dave Miller on the climbing website SuperTopo, relaying the information from his perpelexed friend to a message board.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 10, 2015 - 09:16pm PT
Sometimes geologic time is now!

Nice report, thanks!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 11, 2015 - 10:27am PT
"Fall down mountains. Just don't fall on me..."

Voodoo Chile Slight Release

Thanks for the report on this thoroughly disconcerting event!
Cannon

Trad climber
Murrieta, CA
  Jul 23, 2015 - 10:04am PT
Where's the "You're gonna Die" guy?
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Jul 23, 2015 - 11:53am PT
pitches 11-13 are now grade 2 talus.

Nice!
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