Trip Report
Half Domes RNWF: The day we found that pitch 11/12 was missing
Wednesday July 8, 2015 12:36pm
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July 5th, Scott Sinner and I woke up at 3:45 am for a car to car ascent of Half Dome's RNWF. This would be my 3rd time up the wall, Scott's first. Arriving to the base of HD, I noticed that the climbers trail no longer existed and some alterations to the spring at the base. I shrugged it off just thinking it was from the recent storms that have been coming though the Sierras.
Scott took the first block to the top of pitch 6. I took over from there since I was familiar with the route. After completing the Robbins Traverse we were exited to enter the chimneys and simul away. I moved out onto the face to climb pitch 11 (my least favorite pitch of the route). In go mode, I followed the terrain that was present. Soon I found myself 140 from the belay. It turned out I was climbing the down climbing portion of the free variation.
I remember yelling down to him at some point that I don't remember any of this. Yelling back "I thought you've climbed this before!"
I was so confused. Stopping and looking at the topo, I knew something was not right. I was lowed 60 feet from a block and was able to back clean some gear, untie, pull the rope and got back on belay.
There was some frustration between Scott and I. He was annoyed because I was wasting time and the fact that I do not see the obvious ledge system. I kept telling him, "Dude, there is nothing there!" I swung around on a pin to check thing out. That's when things dawned on me...the whole system flaked off.
I came back to the belay and Scott tied in to check things out. Yep... the whole ledge system was no more.
This is when I called Dave Miller. We climbed the route a few years ago and Dave knows the route better then anyone I knew. I asked him if he has heard anything about any rock fall on HD. He was blown away! After our conversation he went online to do some research. That's when he created this thread.
Scott and I were both stunned! We hung out at the belay for a good while, laughing and eating Sour Patch Kids before we started to bail.
[ Click to View YouTube Video]
While bailing, everything started to make scene. The base, the broken trees and all the trash...
Retreat turned out to be not so bad. Scott and I have gotten good at retreating with one another, that's one thing we are good at. We only had a 60m and 2 grigris. We managed to get down with a mix of down climbing and rappelling. We bootied some bail gear from previous parties. When on the ground, we only left 1 nut and 2 carabiners from our own rack.
When packing up, we ran into a group of 3 foreigners who were going to climb the route the next day. They spoke little to no English. We tried to explain what has happened...we only hope they understood and did not attempt the route.
I really want to thank Dave Miller for getting the word out. I did not want anyone else to go up there and epic, get hurt or get rescued.
I believe that this happened during the recent stint of storms in the Sierras. This would explain why no one herd it and why we were the first to come across it.
We are still scratching our heads about the experience...but most of all, laughing about it.
Be careful out there yall! Next time you climb something, double check to see if its still there!
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Trip Report Views: 12,753 |
drwb
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About the Author drwb is a trad climber from Mammoth Lakes, CA. |
Comments
overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Really amazing this crazy ass Sport
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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We all know who gets credit for the First Ascent of the RNWF, but I wonder who got the Last Ascent?
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Thanks for the first-hand report. Crazy huge exfoliation!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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So if a flake falls in the woods and no one sees it, does it make a sound?
Cool report, thanks.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Great report. Was it spooky - did you wonder if the top stuff was going to cut loose on you given what fell off already? This is the craziest TR ever. Thanks!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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It looks like if you were sleeping on the ledge that it might have just fallen away from you. The anchor looks okay.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Thanks for separating this out into a TR. Great information.
John
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jfailing
Trad climber
PDX
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It looks like if you were sleeping on the ledge that it might have just fallen away from you. The anchor looks okay.
That would be INSANE. A violent awakening in the middle of the night, hanging there in your harness...
So is the route still climbable?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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It looks like if you were sleeping on the ledge that it might have just fallen away from you. The anchor looks okay. One of my first thoughts as well - a night to remember...
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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pitches 11-13 are now grade 2 talus. I'm going to say that the route will need to be regraded at some point down the line. Someone must be wacky enough to be racking up for the new first ascent as we speak. Looks blank. I'd take a grappling hook on a crossbow and shoot for the pitch 11 anchor and then go for a 70m' onsight pendulum swing. or not.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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The whole darn thing is made of Corn Flakes, I say.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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So the ledge we all bivied on our first time up is gone? The one where people shoved loose rocks in to build the ledge?
Yikes.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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"as first reported on Supertopo (™)"!!!
We saw a report on this rockfall on KTLA news last night - old news, man, we heard it here first. Quite amazing how the internet has changed the rapidity with which news spreads through the climbing world.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Not my first route up the NWF, since I was determined to do the Direct as my first, but a weird ending to a place we all knew anyway.
Wow......
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Great stuff.
Glad you two got down okay!
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Incredible!
Interesting vision there, Flip Flop. Curious about the nature of the ledge... Would a bivy party normally tie in to that anchor body-wise to sleep on the ledge? If so, then yes, that would be an amazing, one in a gazillion experience, lol!!
Maybe only one in two would, or one in three? Imagine the survivor guilt of the one. Whew.
Wow! TFPU guys.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Best troll ever.
Just kidding.
Thanks for getting the word out so soon.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Looks like a job for Hensel!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there, say, ... wow, what a way to write a report, too... folks don't always get to do one, in this style, :)
thanks again and for your nice pics... :)
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Wow.... I distinctly remember that ledge and the short squeeze chimney at the right end of the ledge.
Glad no one was underneath that thing when it cut loose.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jul 10, 2015 - 03:45am PT
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Thanks for getting the word out,
Wow!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jul 10, 2015 - 05:07am PT
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Exciting.
Prod.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jul 10, 2015 - 06:16am PT
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Glad no one was underneath that thing when it cut loose.
We were going to be on July 24th. Disturbing. How would you know unless someone was reported missing?
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 10, 2015 - 08:13am PT
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Wow, thanks for the first hand report. The only thing constant is change.
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Sula
Trad climber
Pennsylvania
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Jul 10, 2015 - 08:26am PT
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Wired reports:
It wasn’t until July 5th that a pair of climbers over halfway up the 2,000 foot cliff face noticed that there was a massive section of missing rock preventing them from reaching the next place to anchor their rope. “There was a big dirt outline where the ledge was supposed to be,” wrote Dave Miller on the climbing website SuperTopo, relaying the information from his perpelexed friend to a message board.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 10, 2015 - 09:16pm PT
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Sometimes geologic time is now!
Nice report, thanks!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 11, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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"Fall down mountains. Just don't fall on me..."
Voodoo Chile Slight Release
Thanks for the report on this thoroughly disconcerting event!
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Cannon
Trad climber
Murrieta, CA
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Jul 23, 2015 - 10:04am PT
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Where's the "You're gonna Die" guy?
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Jul 23, 2015 - 11:53am PT
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pitches 11-13 are now grade 2 talus.
Nice!
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