Trip Report
Good times, finding the crack to get higher...
Monday August 22, 2011 7:11am
I woke to my nose twitching from the predawn breeze blowing through camp. Sleeping exposed to the air has once again beaten my alarm clock in effectively waking me up in the dark morning hours. After engaging in a bit of sleeping bag pilates to get my socks on, I finish getting dressed in the coldest air of the trip. Thank goodness the moon is still out so I can put my pants on right. The down puff jacket that was bulky and stupid last night is the only thing keeping me vertical. That, the thought of the climb of the day, and more immediately...coffee! Watching the sun rise sipping coffee in one’s sleeping bag is pretty sweet. Sipping on coffee watching the sky light up while getting ready for a good day of climbing is right up there.

top left corner top right corner
Credit: ladyscarlett
bottom left corner bottom right corner

When a day starts like this with a steaming cup in hand, it tells my newb senses that a good day has already begun. I was returning to an old friend, a popular classic, but I’m coming back to lead this route for the first time. I am confident having scaled this stretch of rock before, and still marginally anxious about all the unknowns that I know lay ahead. I decided this climb not to consult any topo, and see where my newbie route finding skills and fuzzy memory would take me. But first, I had to get out of the warm car and puffy jacket...and put down my coffee. I tell myself that one day, I will be a good enough climber that I can bring my insulated cup on the longer early morning approaches.

The hike is beautiful and fun in the lightly sweaty way and we steadily move upward towards the base of the climb. With traffic on the climb being as expected, we launched in good time while enjoying the local tank top view. On lead on the second pitch I could see the good times ahead just past the bushy dirty crack (heh, the last time I heard that...!).

top left corner top right corner
Credit: ladyscarlett
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Never fear! My leader skirt gives me special abilities to navigate onward and upward to higher times.

top left corner top right corner
Credit: ladyscarlett
bottom left corner bottom right corner

By the time my next lead came up, we had passed a party of 4. Slowly but surely I was getting higher and it was FUN!

top left corner top right corner
Credit: ladyscarlett
bottom left corner bottom right corner

But where the hell am I going to go?

top left corner top right corner
Credit: ladyscarlett
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Curiosity of what was around the corner finally got me over my reluctance over traversing and I got to give the rock my first proper full body hug of the day.

top left corner top right corner
Credit: ladyscarlett
bottom left corner bottom right corner

The top out was even more beautiful than I remembered, and with some views that were new to me, like my follower coming up level with the summit.


top left corner top right corner
Credit: ladyscarlett
bottom left corner bottom right corner

And after a day like that, I can to admit to myself that perhaps I’ve moved on from simple infatuation to a full on addiction. Maybe...

enough already...climb ON!


thanks for reading!

Cheers

LS

  Trip Report Views: 2,921
ladyscarlett
About the Author
ladyscarlett, California.

Comments
wildone

climber
EP
  Aug 22, 2011 - 08:06am PT
Awesome.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Aug 22, 2011 - 08:52am PT
excellent!
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  Aug 22, 2011 - 09:14am PT
Did you get the push too?
(ask locker)
O.D.

Trad climber
LA LA Land
  Aug 22, 2011 - 09:56am PT
Nicely done! Climb on!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Aug 22, 2011 - 10:48am PT
Great writing.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Aug 22, 2011 - 11:46am PT


I like:
Never fear! My leader skirt gives me special abilities to navigate onward and upward to higher times.


I have to admit to being uncertain where this was. There are a lot of Meadows popular(?) routes that I haven't done.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Aug 22, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
It's always good to read your enthusiasm and welcome to the darkside of climbing addiction. Keep it up LS.
Kurt Ettinger

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
  Aug 22, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
Like!
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Aug 22, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
It just keeps getting better!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Aug 22, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
Like!!
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
  Aug 22, 2011 - 01:25pm PT
Check that off. Beautiful day, climb, and TR.
ladyscarlett

Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
Author's Reply  Aug 22, 2011 - 02:21pm PT
Did you get the push too?
(ask locker)

Hey locker...as directed, I'm askin'

what kinda crack does a Lady have to get wrist deep (or more!) into for an answer? Or this time do I have feel up a good knob?

This day also got me to appreciate the full firm knob that fills the hand so solidly!

Please, may I have some more?

onward and upward!

Cheers

LS
Zander

climber
  Aug 22, 2011 - 08:58pm PT
Sweet!
Z
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Aug 22, 2011 - 09:10pm PT
Fun post!

This old guy likes your humor, stories, & photos!

More please!
tahoe523

Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
  Aug 22, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
This quarter-aged gal likes your humor, stories, & photos. I second, Fritz. More, please!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 23, 2011 - 11:34pm PT
NIce pics, nice rock, awesome attitude, thanks!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Aug 24, 2011 - 01:12am PT
Giant TFPU, right there, Lady Scarlett. The Glory of it all is fricken amazing, huh?
Lovin' it! I hope you'll post more exploits. I love that sh#t.
It's the essence.
James Doty

Trad climber
Phoenix, Az.
  Aug 24, 2011 - 02:50pm PT
Am I missing something or is this route so well known only I don't recognize it?
davidji

Social climber
CA
  Aug 24, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
James: I think it's well known, at least around here.

TFPU LS!



James Doty

Trad climber
Phoenix, Az.
  Aug 24, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
Oh, gee, that really clears things up. Thanks.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Aug 24, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
James I don't know the route either but it's a well known route around here, hope this clears things up. Haha.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Feb 2, 2017 - 08:24am PT
Say, LS, crank up the iron, tune up the pleats in your leader skirt, sharpen the focus of your clickety click, and spin another yarn for us, won't you?
Cragar

climber
MSLA - MT
  Feb 2, 2017 - 09:41am PT
Nice report and a good looking route on some beautiful exposed Sonoran Suite knobs!! If'n ya don't mind where is this is? I am a hobby geo type and want to geographically fit this in the suite of my mind.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Feb 2, 2017 - 04:35pm PT
The best high on crack is achieved when you leave behind the rack.
Go