Trip Report
Good times, finding the crack to get higher...
Monday August 22, 2011 7:11am
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I woke to my nose twitching from the predawn breeze blowing through camp. Sleeping exposed to the air has once again beaten my alarm clock in effectively waking me up in the dark morning hours. After engaging in a bit of sleeping bag pilates to get my socks on, I finish getting dressed in the coldest air of the trip. Thank goodness the moon is still out so I can put my pants on right. The down puff jacket that was bulky and stupid last night is the only thing keeping me vertical. That, the thought of the climb of the day, and more immediately...coffee! Watching the sun rise sipping coffee in one’s sleeping bag is pretty sweet. Sipping on coffee watching the sky light up while getting ready for a good day of climbing is right up there.
When a day starts like this with a steaming cup in hand, it tells my newb senses that a good day has already begun. I was returning to an old friend, a popular classic, but I’m coming back to lead this route for the first time. I am confident having scaled this stretch of rock before, and still marginally anxious about all the unknowns that I know lay ahead. I decided this climb not to consult any topo, and see where my newbie route finding skills and fuzzy memory would take me. But first, I had to get out of the warm car and puffy jacket...and put down my coffee. I tell myself that one day, I will be a good enough climber that I can bring my insulated cup on the longer early morning approaches.
The hike is beautiful and fun in the lightly sweaty way and we steadily move upward towards the base of the climb. With traffic on the climb being as expected, we launched in good time while enjoying the local tank top view. On lead on the second pitch I could see the good times ahead just past the bushy dirty crack (heh, the last time I heard that...!).
Never fear! My leader skirt gives me special abilities to navigate onward and upward to higher times.
By the time my next lead came up, we had passed a party of 4. Slowly but surely I was getting higher and it was FUN!
But where the hell am I going to go?
Curiosity of what was around the corner finally got me over my reluctance over traversing and I got to give the rock my first proper full body hug of the day.
The top out was even more beautiful than I remembered, and with some views that were new to me, like my follower coming up level with the summit.
And after a day like that, I can to admit to myself that perhaps I’ve moved on from simple infatuation to a full on addiction. Maybe...
enough already...climb ON!
thanks for reading!
Cheers
LS
Comments
wildone
climber
EP
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Aug 22, 2011 - 08:06am PT
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Awesome.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Aug 22, 2011 - 08:52am PT
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excellent!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 22, 2011 - 09:14am PT
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Did you get the push too?
(ask locker)
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O.D.
Trad climber
LA LA Land
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Aug 22, 2011 - 09:56am PT
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Nicely done! Climb on!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 22, 2011 - 10:48am PT
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Great writing.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 22, 2011 - 11:46am PT
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I like:
Never fear! My leader skirt gives me special abilities to navigate onward and upward to higher times.
I have to admit to being uncertain where this was. There are a lot of Meadows popular(?) routes that I haven't done.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Aug 22, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
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It's always good to read your enthusiasm and welcome to the darkside of climbing addiction. Keep it up LS.
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Kurt Ettinger
Trad climber
Martinez, CA
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Aug 22, 2011 - 01:00pm PT
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Like!
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Aug 22, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
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It just keeps getting better!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Aug 22, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
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Like!!
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Aug 22, 2011 - 01:25pm PT
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Check that off. Beautiful day, climb, and TR.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Author's Reply
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Aug 22, 2011 - 02:21pm PT
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Did you get the push too?
(ask locker)
Hey locker...as directed, I'm askin'
what kinda crack does a Lady have to get wrist deep (or more!) into for an answer? Or this time do I have feel up a good knob?
This day also got me to appreciate the full firm knob that fills the hand so solidly!
Please, may I have some more?
onward and upward!
Cheers
LS
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Zander
climber
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Aug 22, 2011 - 08:58pm PT
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Sweet!
Z
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Aug 22, 2011 - 09:10pm PT
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Fun post!
This old guy likes your humor, stories, & photos!
More please!
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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Aug 22, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
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This quarter-aged gal likes your humor, stories, & photos. I second, Fritz. More, please!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Aug 23, 2011 - 11:34pm PT
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NIce pics, nice rock, awesome attitude, thanks!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Aug 24, 2011 - 01:12am PT
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Giant TFPU, right there, Lady Scarlett. The Glory of it all is fricken amazing, huh?
Lovin' it! I hope you'll post more exploits. I love that sh#t.
It's the essence.
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James Doty
Trad climber
Phoenix, Az.
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Aug 24, 2011 - 02:50pm PT
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Am I missing something or is this route so well known only I don't recognize it?
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Aug 24, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
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James: I think it's well known, at least around here.
TFPU LS!
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James Doty
Trad climber
Phoenix, Az.
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Aug 24, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
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Oh, gee, that really clears things up. Thanks.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Aug 24, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
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James I don't know the route either but it's a well known route around here, hope this clears things up. Haha.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Say, LS, crank up the iron, tune up the pleats in your leader skirt, sharpen the focus of your clickety click, and spin another yarn for us, won't you?
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Nice report and a good looking route on some beautiful exposed Sonoran Suite knobs!! If'n ya don't mind where is this is? I am a hobby geo type and want to geographically fit this in the suite of my mind.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The best high on crack is achieved when you leave behind the rack.
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