Trip Report
"Goliath" The intimidator on Yosemite's Lost Brother
Wednesday August 6, 2014 7:36pm
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"Goliath" The name sounds cool. That is what sparked the attention to the route in the first place. Plus, the summit of the Lost Brother had not been obtained yet.
After pestering Eric Gabel (one of the FA) for a bit of information, he promptly sent some nice tidbits concerning the mammoth warrior, among others. Actually, there wasn't any real pestering though. Just kidding. I asked and he simply gave and gave. I love it. Keeps the mind busy with ideas of further adventure. Thank you!
Lets go ahead about a year, or so later from my internet retrieval of information on Goliath.
In that time the battle with this giant was staged on at least three different occasions with three different people. This premeditated battle just didn't work out ever due to multiple issues. Memory says it was mostly due to me with things like health of body and/or mind, and work opportunities. Oh, and the possibility of being just a bit intimidated. As in, "Yeah, that route Goliath sure seems a bit big for today. Lets go to The Pulpit!"
So, this young guy shows up to climb for a few weeks. He has the same name as me. We are the Bobs.
This other Bob has shared a rope with me on routes such as West Face of El Cap, Chouinard/Herbert, and a nice day on Fairview with a trifecta of Heart of Stone, What Would Jeff Do, and The Regular Route. This guy can climb and has more spunk than my aging ass, but he still hadn't jumped on an "adventure route" in the Valley to help round out his bag of tricks for future sends. Goliath would be a perfect way to round out his experiences and allow us the pleasure of a genuine adventure route together. Maybe even a second ascent, though my rational mind says that most likely wouldn't be the case in 12 years. Who knows?.
And it was a grand adventure as any route with a name and description such as this should be. Complete with interesting route finding for the initial pitches, moss, munge, and loose blocks to which the climber and the climber's rope needed to avoid. There was also this insidious lichen which imitated grey granite near the top of the route on the last pitch. Don't put your foot there or "POP!" Had me fooled. Good SH#T.
Here are some photos. These were taken with an old and very possessed Iphone. They are not quality photos, but show you folk this grand intimidator of armies named Goliath.
Missing photo ID#371678
RECOMMENDED GEAR ON TOPO: leather sling and 5 stones. Ha! just kidding. Doubles to 6 and possible 8" tube thingy if you happen to be big.
GEAR WE TOOK: Doubles to 6 No tube thingy. I'm a pole and the other Bob is a midget.
GEAR WE RECOMMEND AFTER CLIMBING THE ROUTE: Doubles to 3. Singles of 4,5,6 new style camalots or the like. This rack will require some punching skills on wide or the simple skill of walking a big piece here, or there. Doubles to 6 is a huge F-ING rack for a pole and a midget. The bushes like a huge rack too!
There is a reasonable rap down a new route called "Call of the Yeti" which will require two 70 m ropes or two 60 m ropes using some shenanigans on the lip of very steep terrain. Gulp. Info on Sloan's Site. Google it.
The route stays in the shade all day for the most part. As one climbs up, the route itself twists around the front of the formation as the sun twists around the back. Pretty cool! Literally.
We linked 4 and 5, 6 and 7.
Overall, this is a grand adventure route that goes to one of the best summits. Such a great, earned perspective of Yosemite Valley.
Thank you for your time. Hope someone enjoys this rig.
Bob Jensen
bob
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About the Author bob is a climber from .Near the Ditch |
Comments
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Looks like a grand adventure, Bob.
Thanks for sharing.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, bob... wow, thanks for this trip report...
very nice set up, and photos share...
very good angles and balance, too, as to the photos...
nice rocks, of course, :)
and neat little follow through, as to 'conquering the giant', :)
job well done, all around,
:)
please share again, when you get the next one,on your list, done, :)
happy good supertopo eve, to you!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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I used to hike the gully west of there.
You can find more Lost Brother FA potential on Gigapan and Xrez.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Best kind of TR is a TR of deep obscurity, and man did you provide in spades on that front. Thank you!
The Lost Bro is such an appealing formation, mostly because you hear so little info on it.
I've heard rumors of a soaring, perfect hand crack up there somewhere. Hadn't been climbed yet at the time of the telling, but irons were in the fire. Wonder if that went yet...
Have you done Wind Chill? That's a fantastic, semi-obscure line with plenty of lichen. You can link into it from Windfall or Wind Jammer - can't go wrong on either.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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WOW! Haha looks like le_bruce and I get drawn to the same stuff :)
Bob, this is a really great adventure, and that pic of the last pitch to the summit is wild and hairy looking. Does Eric have his own appreciation thread here yet?
Biotch, if you get benighted on Lower Brother and watch all the features that appear in the morning sunshine over on Lost Brother, that is enough to make you want to move up there and just spend weeks exploring.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Sick slick slaying for sure. Dude.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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i like this.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Rad!!
loved your dreams and big gear warrior mind set!!
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bob
climber
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Author's Reply
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Aug 7, 2014 - 08:22am PT
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LeBruce : No haven't done windchill. Went to do it one day.......... yeah, yeah....yada yada. Didn't happen. :)
Nutagain: here's one http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1397202/Cheers-to-Eric-Gabel
Yeah Kevin, have to love that lichen!!! Was up climbing Gabel/Dignes on Supernova (mosstrum) and love that side. Definitely did some moss jamming. Quite soft on the back of the hands. Haunted House looks sick and will be done by me this year. Just plain fun looking! I sent you an email concerning the area, but think maybe you didn't get it. I'd love to chat about some stuff there and some other locations.
Goliath is a 5.10 route. Can you click the image then enlarge it? Its a pretty good sized image to keep it clear.
Thanks all. Glad this is getting some enjoyment.
Peace!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Man that looks fun. Thanks for the great report.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Awesome TR Bob-Thanks for the energy to put this all together.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Good on you bob!
That is a nice chunk of stone, up till this year ignored for the most part.
Cheers!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Newbury Park
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So nice to see Lost Brother getting the attention it deserves. Especially nice to see Goliath get done. That is a fantastic looking line.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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"So David triumphed over the Philistine with a sling and a stone; without a sword in his hand he struck down the Philistine and killed him."
1 Samuel 17:50
Well done lads. Well done.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Awesome. I'm not sure if that's better than the best trip report ever, though.
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bob
climber
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Author's Reply
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Aug 10, 2014 - 08:28am PT
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Micronut, then David used Goliath's sword to cut his head off from what I can gather. While getting some images for this TR I came accross this TED Talk concerning David and Goliath. Its an interesting take. To me, at least, with my less than adequate knowledge of the story. Its a short and fun listen though. That guy Malcolm Gladwell is a trip!
http://www.ted.com/talks/malcolm_gladwell_the_unheard_story_of_david_and_goliath
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Aug 10, 2014 - 09:28am PT
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Slaying it !!!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Aug 10, 2014 - 09:52am PT
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2 Samuel 21:20 speaks about a man of great stature that had 6 fingers on each hand and 6 toes with a total of 24 fingers and toes. this mans is sometimes confused with Goliath. but there should be no confusion. this man was killed by Jonathan the son of Shimea, David's brother. so it is unknown if Goliath had 6 fingers.
So does(did) Goliath have a brother?
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E Robinson
Trad climber
Salinas, CA
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Aug 10, 2014 - 09:43pm PT
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that looks like a great route1 congratulations.
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Aug 19, 2014 - 06:36pm PT
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AWESOME REPORT AND PHOTOS
LOOKS GOOD FROM NEW PALTZ
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RyanD
climber
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Sep 26, 2014 - 11:59pm PT
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Mega!
Always love your TRs bob. Quality stuff.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Sep 27, 2014 - 02:03am PT
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Woot
Woot
To you
the BOB Szz
For getting After it
And getting it done
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Sep 28, 2014 - 09:13am PT
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Anything on Lost Brother is pretty rad....That's a tough approach. Damn good TR, fellas.....TFPU!!!!
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E Robinson
Trad climber
Salinas, CA
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Sep 28, 2014 - 09:19am PT
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Nice!
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Sep 28, 2014 - 02:51pm PT
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yeah bob!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Sep 29, 2014 - 03:39am PT
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Nice job. Love hearing about adventures off the beaten path, they are often the finest.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 29, 2014 - 07:50am PT
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Really cool report, thanks for sharing about these rarely do e climbs.
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Sep 29, 2014 - 07:00pm PT
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First time I saw this.
Excellent, Bob. Real climbing and adventure. TFPU.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Does anyone have a topo for this route? Googled all over and could not find. Thanks
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Have you asked Eric?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Yes, I have one (actually 2). But contact Eric Gabel (ablegabel) first; he has a much better one.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Nice Job and Nice Write up for a Big Adventure ! Thanks!!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Missed this the first time around. So thanks for the bump.
Good stuff.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Jul 23, 2018 - 06:42pm PT
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This fell off my radar but I was super-stoked when I first read this TR and it would be on the short-list of Yosemite climbs when I have time and the body-conditioning for it.
Tiffypoo Bob!
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