Trip Report
Getting to Eagle Wall, Red Rocks
|
Sunday November 19, 2017 2:04pm
|
|
* This is the route my wife and I used when approaching Eagle Wall. I can't guarantee it's correct or that we took the easiest route through the terrain so please don't follow it blindly, use your own judgement!*
My Wife and I decided that we'd follow the easiest approach as described by Handren as we were short on light, but shortly after the two large pines the cairns died and we were confused as to where we should be. Instead, we descended to what we thought was the 4th class approach pictured in the Handren guide (middle approach) and followed that.
The photos and GPS track contained here were captured on the descent in the hope it might avoid others getting lost.
The GPS track (N.B. - don't rely on this by itself, use your own judgement!) is available to download here:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_icqsbVgcrUAFYb_L-y5ij-aflnNfuHa
Paul B
|
|
About the Author
Paul B is a british climber, resident in the NW of England who loves nothing more than suffering on American trad. |
Comments
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
|
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2017 - 06:09am PT
|
When city folk meet the wilds...
|
|
Paul B
Big Wall climber
Sheffield, UK
|
|
|
Author's Reply
|
Nov 20, 2017 - 09:48am PT
|
Yeah I mean, having been climbing since I was in my early teens, toured European sport/trad extensively through 2007, spent 2013 as our 'honeymoon' (getting married in Red Rocks) traveling from Colorado, through Utah, Nevada, California and then up into BC visiting every major area we passed (there wasn't anything beyond climbing), and now living in a rural hamlet, I guess you could call us city folks, after all we did stay in one for a while after university.
In all seriousness though, if this helps somebody else go car-to-car on a short Winter's day without worrying about wasting it/cutting it short by getting the approach wrong then I'm happy.
|
|
deschamps
Gym climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
|
There's nothing wrong with letting people get lost.
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
|
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2017 - 04:55pm PT
|
Very cool beta. Let the haters whine. Bring on the intel. Thanks for taking the time to write this up. Looks like this approach is a fun little adventure in itself!
Scott
|
|
Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
|
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2017 - 09:58pm PT
|
Paul, I appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge, which I'm sure some people will find helpful. I will do my part to contribute to the discussion.
First of all though, if you, or anyone reading, are not already aware, there is a great approach description on Mountain Project for Eagle Wall. To be honest, these days, I find MP to be a better place to share beta because there are more active climbers there and people who visit the route beta pages, by default and by definition, are appreciative of others' effort in sharing, unless they are hypocrites.
I did the climb a few days ago and just wrote up a mini photo trip report. Included is this image showing my track for the MP "wily climber approach" (in red) overlay'ed with yours (in blue). I think that the MP approach plus the Handren descent would make the most sense as already suggested on MP.
Happy climbing and traveling!
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
|
Nov 20, 2017 - 08:14pm PT
|
Thanks Paul B for sharing your experience . . . looks like an involved approach. Approach beta can save lots of time!
|
|
Paul B
Big Wall climber
Sheffield, UK
|
|
|
Author's Reply
|
Nov 21, 2017 - 10:38am PT
|
"There's nothing wrong with letting people get lost" - sure, but there's nothing wrong with furnishing others with information either. You don't have to seek it out.
Mei - I was uncharacteristically unprepared in terms of reading Mountain Project, Summit Post, Supertopo etc so I'd missed that. At least I don't have another language to contend with like when looking for Euro route descriptions.
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
|
|
|
|
Nov 21, 2017 - 04:10pm PT
|
After Lynn, Joanne U. and I did the FFA we repeated the route several times and never had a problem with the approach because we didn't try any shortcuts. Folks get turned around and strung out on this one because they get impatient and try a shorter, more direct line to the face. You have to hump up a bit to gain the wall but it's not as involved as getting to the base of Sentinel or Watkins or Quarter Dome etc. But if you can't enjoy the desert touring, the hike will feel long.
|
|
El Gato
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2017 - 10:25pm PT
|
To start I should probably admit that my wife and are are infamous for having climbed “everything but the last ten pitches” of Levitation 29. So we have some experience getting lost on that approach.
Apparently, there’s nothing wrong with that though.
TRs like these and info on these approaches can be useful. So thanks to those who have contributed. This was a while ago, but as I recall there were really only 3 parts to the approach: (1) follow the wash, (2) leave the wash, and (3) ascend the slab. Simple enough, but step #2 was the standout crux. Following the wash can be a hassle, but it’s pretty straighforward. Ascending the Slab looks entirely improbable, but it’s just fine if you’re in the right spot. But leave the wash at the wrong location and you’re gonna get lost.
Not to worry, though. When you’re in the totally wrong spot, you will find cairns. These cairns will lead you to either somewhere or nowhere. None will lead you anywhere you want to be, but they will make for an interesting day.
Ok, maybe some magical set of cairns exists out there somewhere, on one of these ‘wrong turns’, but we didn’t find it...and we followed a LOT of them. The dozen or two sets which we followed led us to 5th class climbing, cliff-outs, or around in circles to the aforementioned cairns. In a few cases, the cairns seemed to lead us into the ‘beyond’ section of Beth Bath and Beyond. I’m pretty sure we passed a few hours there, although I don’t remember any of it. Or maybe we were abducted by aliens?
As I recall, the exit from the wash which we were looking for was at a bush. Not near a bush, but at a bush. Actually IN a bush. There may have been a cairn there, but we didn’t think much of it because there was a big bush on the right side blocking our egress. Apparently that was the bush we were supposed to whack through.
Anyway, the GPS tracks are cool, but not likely to help me much. And the cairns, forget about it. What I think people need is a good solid reference as to where to leave that wash. Pics help. Unfortunately I didn’t take any. Or maybe that’s fortunate, considering this story, and potential alien abduction.
|
|
neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
|
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2017 - 03:53pm PT
|
hey there say, paul B ... wow, thank you for sharing your trip, and all the photos, and for the time you put in to doing the share...
neat stuff...
didn't get to read it all yet, but i am, :)
wow, OKAY, i DID read and see all of it,
(i thought the link, had more trip info)
:)
|
|
bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
|
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2017 - 03:52pm PT
|
Avoid the Turd-in-a-bags in the brush filled gulley.
|
|
|
 |
|
Recent Trip Reports
- The Kohala Ditch Trail: 36ish hrs on foot... to and from the headwaters. [5 of 5]
May 31, 2019; 11:57pm
- A Winter Traverse of the California section of the PCT Part 8
May 31, 2019; 11:18pm
- Supertopo,A trip report for posterity
May 31, 2019; 11:00pm
- Balch Fest 2013. Two Days in and Around and On The Flake. The Official Trip Report
May 31, 2019; 10:57pm
- TR: My visit to the Canoe
May 31, 2019; 10:24pm
- Death, Alpine Climbing, The Shield on El Cap
May 31, 2019; 4:07pm
- Andy Nisbet (1953-2019)
May 31, 2019; 2:11pm
- Drama on Baboquivari Peak
May 31, 2019; 1:19pm
- Joffre + The Aemmer Couloir: ski descents come unexpected catharsis [part 2]
May 31, 2019; 7:45am
- Lost To The Sea, by Disaster Master
May 30, 2019; 5:36am
- My Up And Down Life, Disaster Master
May 29, 2019; 11:44pm
- Halibut Hats and Climbers-What Gives?
May 29, 2019; 7:24pm
- G Rubberfat Overhang-First Ascent 1961
May 29, 2019; 12:28pm
- Coonyard Pinnacle 50 Years Later
May 29, 2019; 12:24pm
- Great Pumpkin with Mr Kamps and McClinsky- 1971
May 29, 2019; 12:02pm
- View more trip reports >
Other Routes on Eagle Wall
|
| Eagle Dance, 5.10c A0
Eagle Wall
With new bolts, Eagle Dance is destined to become a classic. |
|
