Trip Report
Geezer-Climbing With Injuries; COR mini TR
Wednesday August 18, 2010 11:32am
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Back in late April, I suffered 7 broken ribs and 2 cracked cervical vertabrae during a descent in Eldorado. I've been burning to get back to climbing, even though my injuries have not completely healed. I posted a thread a few weeks earlier, inquiring about the City of Rocks as a possible venue for an old geezer wanting to get re-started on climbing. I had a marvelous response to my post from S-T member, Fritz, who just happens to be an Idaho resident and a climber more of my own generation.
For me, this was an experimental trip, to see how well and completely had been my healing; I was super motivated and encouraged by the posts here on S-T.
Fritz and I decided to meet at the COR Campground at my reserved campsite on Monday afternoon/evening. The drive over took a little longer than I anticipated, since I managed to miss a turn due to some road constructiona and managed to do an additional hour and a half of driving before arriving at the destination.
I was very pleased and surprised at the wonderful camping offered at the city of Rocks.
We were also in close proximity to one of the major formations, Bath Rock which was only 300 yards down the road. I was an early riser the next morning, and caught the Alpenglow on this nice formation.
Next morning we decided to hit the toprope warm-up climbs at Practice Rock, which has several two-bolt-and-chain anchors for that purpose. Fritz, being more familiar with the area than I, set up the initial toprope.
Then it was my turn! First real time on the rock in nearly 4 months. I was able to do this up to near the anchor, and lowered.
Fritz then rigged another route to the right called "First Lead" using an anchor constructed from hardware. He was also able to climb same without any problems. My efforts, alas, were not too good, since one of the lower down moves required a very long reach with the left arm--which immediately led to some sharp pain in the rib area. I decided to bag the effort right then and there! Even thoug I only got up one of the 2 routes, it allowed me to evaluate my condition and progress in healing up.
We took a lunch break, and then went over to Indian Chief Rock for an enjoyable route with the interesting name of "Flake Route." The approach was brutal. We actually had to anchor the belay to the towing rings on Fritzs' car.
Fritz and I took off the rest of the afternoon, and he headed down to town to get into cellular communication for business purposes. That left me with a full beer cooler, and I enjoyed a lovely afternoon in the shaded campsite with a cold Corona.
We made a half-hearted effort to do some climbing the next day, but I was then in full realization that my ribs had not yet fully healed, and Fritzs' Achilles tendenitis had flared again. After packing up, we both headed off to our respective homes. We both enjoyed the trip and the new friendship mediated by the Super Taco website. We vowed to return again later this year after healing up more, and doing a lot more pre-trip conditioning. My motivation is BACK!
Brokedownclimber
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About the Author Brokedownclimber is a trad climber from Douglas, WY. |
Comments
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 18, 2010 - 11:39am PT
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Great to see you back at it BDC!
take it easy on the recovery... I've got some more recovery plans in mind.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Aug 18, 2010 - 11:43am PT
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Nicely done BDC!!
It's a little rough clawing our way back into it, but with some patience and care, there are fun adventures for us all.
Geezers Rule!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Aug 18, 2010 - 11:46am PT
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Congrats! :)
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Aug 18, 2010 - 11:54am PT
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Brokedownclimber. Great trip report and great getting to meet you. You have quite the climbing background.
Best part of the trip was two pleasant evenings swapping stories.
However-----I can't believe you didn't mention "the friction traverse."
This is my fav warm-up for learning how sticky COR rock really is.
75 Ft. of traversing one foot above the grass. Starts at 5.7 and grades up toward 5.10+.
It helps with climber commitment ---------to pretend the grass is molten lava.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Author's Reply
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Aug 18, 2010 - 12:02pm PT
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Thanks, guys!
I was somewhat apprehensive about getting out this soon after a major traumatic injury. I did find that I still have the necessary technical skills, and am only limited by the flesh. I was motivated enough by the trip to get out some of my home fitness equipment--I hauled the Preacher-curl bench into the living room and have been doing sets of curls whenever the spirit moves me. This is in addition to doing the health club circuit training 3 days a week.
One other thing I was reminded of--no amount of gym training can substitute for the "real thing" of being outside and up on the rocks.
Ed-
I'll be in Summerdale Campground (S. Entrance to Yosemite) the afternoon of 27 August. Would love to climb at Knob Hill on Saturday if you're available. Or, go on up to Tuolumne (Holdless Horror?). PM me if you're available.
Fritz-
I didn't forget the "molten lava traverse," just didn't have the pictures to support the comments. I enjoyed it!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 18, 2010 - 12:07pm PT
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Nice job, BDC. Now you've done it, you've proven that you ARE healed. Now start planning more trips. No excuses!
Nice job. Cool TR. Way to get it done!
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Aug 18, 2010 - 04:18pm PT
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hey, i found my people! just ruptured distal bicep tendon trying to snatch
a mattress onto my shoulder... lawnchairs, and aspen and beer, oh my.
well, they still make alpenglow at days end, right?
thankyou for your leadership,
i shoulda gone for rapture
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 18, 2010 - 01:02pm PT
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nice, my gal and I were just up there and thoroughly enjoyed the Practice wall. Next time for us, Bath Rock.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Aug 18, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
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The mind and confidence heal more slowly than the body. Time to enjoy 5.fun routes. Go get'em.
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Aug 18, 2010 - 01:07pm PT
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good to hear that you are getting back at it.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 18, 2010 - 02:25pm PT
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Glad to hear you're healin' up well.
Thanks for sharing the TR!!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 18, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
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Nice! Keep at it, keep at it, for all of us.
Every day in every way get better and better.
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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Aug 18, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
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Brokendown climber, NICE TR!
What does the Flake route on Indian Cheif Rock go at?
It looks like a good gear protected lead!
Thanks,
-Ezra
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Aug 18, 2010 - 03:38pm PT
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Heal!!!
nice tr
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Aug 18, 2010 - 03:58pm PT
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Keep at it, doing something is better than doing nothing!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 18, 2010 - 04:18pm PT
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Well done, BDC! We geezers aren't done yet!
John
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Author's Reply
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Aug 18, 2010 - 04:30pm PT
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Ezra-
The Flake Route goes at 5.5, and I felt that it was very straight forward and easy at that grade. That's the Bingham Guidebook grade, by the way. Fritz protected the lead with a combination of cams, wired stoppers, and one tied-off chickenhead. Bombproof protection.
John-
We Geezers aren't done 'till they're throwing dirt in our faces! Just came home from the health club after an intensive 40 minute workout!
Overall comment on City of Rocks: one of the nicest places I have climbed; nice campground, clean crappers, water available, and the rock--oh, the rock, is beautiful!
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utahman912
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Aug 18, 2010 - 04:37pm PT
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Looks like geezer Tommy Cs on your feet... like them?
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Aug 18, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
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Good to see you out and about.
Nice report and all.
That City of Rocks, it really has a hospitable feel to it.
Good climbing, good relaxing, pretty as all get out.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Author's Reply
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Aug 18, 2010 - 04:54pm PT
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The Tommy C's were OK, just need more time to break in ans stretch out a little. I was experimenting with shoes, as well. I climbed the Flake Route in a new pair of Sportiva "Mythos," but my all-time fave's are my old "Mariachers."
Imelda Marcos has nothing on me when shoes are concerned; I have "Mariacher's, " "Mythos," and "TC-Pros," in addition to "Trad Masters" that I haven't tried yet. I prefer a high-top shoe for general climbing, and the ankle protection they afford in wider cracks.
P.S. Added in edit: I'm saving a newly resoled pair of "Mariacher's" for when I've healed up enough to do "Bongs Away-Center" OW that Ed posted over on Widefetish.com
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Aug 18, 2010 - 05:41pm PT
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BDC, I grew up climbing there and I miss it! That is an awesome picture of Bath Rock, in Alpenglow! Thanks for sharing and way to get back out there!
Thor
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Author's Reply
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Aug 18, 2010 - 06:27pm PT
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Thor-
Here's a pic of Steinfels Dome area at sunrise.
This is directly from in front of my tent.
Rodger
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Aug 18, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
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Keep up the good work !
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Zander
climber
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Aug 18, 2010 - 11:51pm PT
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Nice BDC,
Thanks for reporting in. Looks like fun was had.
Zander
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Aug 18, 2010 - 11:58pm PT
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Great photos!
Not bad for a guy who was in the ICU three times this spring Do your kids know you are back climbing? I'm not sure they're tough enough to take the news.
Hope you have an equally good time in Yosemite at Facelift.
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philo
climber
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Aug 19, 2010 - 12:05am PT
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Rodger, wonderful TR. It is really great to hear you are back out there and getting after it again.
Just remember you were pretty seriously mucked up. I know how powerful the drive to return can be. Just give your brokedownbody lots of healing time. In other words don't fly faster than your guardian angel can follow.
Peace and many happy returns.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Author's Reply
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Aug 19, 2010 - 12:16am PT
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Jan-
Yes they know! My son was a protege of mine for a while, though, and really understands me. My daughter is just "O.K. with it."The directional non-force chiropracter told me yesterday that he's amazed at the improvements in the past 3 weeks, and to just keep doing whatever I've been doing.
Rodger
PS. I'm going before Facelift, and again during Facelift. I'll probably do another COR trip in early October, weather permitting.
rr
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Aug 19, 2010 - 12:21am PT
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Wow, you're really getting into it.
Too bad the Pacific is such a big ocean.
Hope I retire while you're still at it.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Author's Reply
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Aug 19, 2010 - 12:34am PT
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The weight training is really helping my recovery process. I'm still holding at about 197 pounds, but the muscularity is coming back and I simply feel "fitter."
Jan-You really shouldn't wait too long to retire--on general principles, you do it young enough to enjoy living.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Aug 19, 2010 - 12:06pm PT
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BDC, stellar photo!
Thor
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Author's Reply
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Aug 19, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
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Just want to say thanks to everyone for all the great positive input and support here on S-T!
Rodger
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