Trip Report
French Multi-Pitch Sport - a short TR

by Enty
Tuesday September 6, 2011 11:33am
The temperature has been hovering between 80 and a 100 here in Provence for about 8 weeks now and our local climbing has been limited to 1 or 2 shady crags which we are now getting sick of!.
So my rope buddy John suggested we spread our wings and this morning we headed out to the Ardeche Gorge about an hour away to climb the Pilier Ouest - an 8 pitch sport route which, as the name suggests, stays in the shade until early afternoon.

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Pilier Ouest - Autrige - Gorge de l'Ardeche - France
Pilier Ouest - Autrige - Gorge de l'Ardeche - France
Credit: Enty
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We downloaded the relevant info from Camp-To-Camp http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/55438/fr/gorges-de-l-ardeche-autridge-pilier-ouest

Without a hitch arrived at the parking and found the descent path. Not a bad view - acres of rock!!

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View from the descent path
View from the descent path
Credit: Enty
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We were at the foot of the route 10 minutes later. John wanted me to get the crux 6th pitch so I went first and linked the first two pitches - an easy 6a wall into an easier 5b corner.

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John seconding the 2nd pitch.
John seconding the 2nd pitch.
Credit: Enty
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The third pitch looked great and didn't dissapoint. A mega exposed step right then a pumpy crack.

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Stepping onto the mega exposed 3rd pitch
Stepping onto the mega exposed 3rd pitch
Credit: Enty
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The view upstream from the belay at pitch 3
The view upstream from the belay at pitch 3
Credit: Enty
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The view downstream
The view downstream
Credit: Enty
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Pitch 4 was delicate step right on perfect rock. 6b but low angled and felt quite easy.

Pitch 5 again dispatched easily by John.

Now the problems started - the overhanging 6b+ crux pitch. I don't do overhangs very well being the wrong side of 80 kilograms. So I stepped up to the overhanging layback, spied the crucial jug by the 3rd bolt about 2m above, pulled round to a smeary right foothold and.......






......greased of!!! Bastard!!

Straight back on, got a better right foothold, got the jug and the rest was easy. Don't you hate it when that happens?
At the top of the pitch there's a down climbing traverse to a hanging belay which puts you about 200m above the river.

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Belay - pitch 6
Belay - pitch 6
Credit: Enty
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The downward traverse to the hanging belay.
The downward traverse to the hanging belay.
Credit: Enty
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The next pitch was probably the best - John got this one. A brilliant pocketed wall, sustained but on perfect rock.

Last pitch was an airy traverse out right then up to the top.

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Traversing out on the airy last pitch.
Traversing out on the airy last pitch.
Credit: Enty
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Job done!
Job done!
Credit: Enty
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Left the house at 6:30am and was back home for 1:45pm - not bad.

So that's my first Supertopo Trip Report. French Sport climbing for shandy drinkers!!!!
I'll be in Yosemite in 3 weeks time so maybe I might have amore adventurous TR to write.

Check us out here:
http://www.provencerock.com/




  Trip Report Views: 2,943
Enty
About the Author
Enty is a trad (and sport) climber from England but is based in France.

Comments
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Sep 6, 2011 - 11:40am PT
Victory sandwich, with a generous helping of Bitchin' sauce on top!
Jonny D

Social climber
Fanta Se, NM
  Sep 6, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
Thanks for this TR, brought back good memories. I actually participated in a first ascent there in the late 70's, I think it was on the same rock formation. There was some multi pitch aid climb just to the right of our line and I was climbing with a couple of guys from Aubenas. I wish I could remember more but I recall having a great adventure in what was a remote climbing spot back then.
jfailing

Trad climber
PDX
  Sep 6, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
Great TR! Provence might be one of the nicest places on earth! There is so much climbing everywhere too... Enjoy your trip!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Sep 6, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
Fantastique!
jahil

Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
  Sep 6, 2011 - 01:45pm PT
You definitely earned your marmite sandwiches. That looks like a stellar route, be cool to see some more trip reports from across the pond!

steve
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