Trip Report
Four Days of Desert Fun.
Wednesday April 15, 2015 2:23pm
I normally don't post things online but i've read so many good trip reports over the past year that get me through the week I figured maybe I should start contributing. As many good trips start, they tend to start with little planning or preparation. This trip was no different. The previous weekend me and my partner Steve had climbed our first desert tower, Castleton via north chimney.
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Steve packing.
Steve packing.
Credit: Madskates
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Credit: Madskates
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Signing the summit registry.
Signing the summit registry.
Credit: Madskates
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First desert tower.
First desert tower.
Credit: Madskates
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Since we had a great time the previous weekend we went back to tick some more classics! I got out of class at 3 on thursday and we took our good old time getting down to the fishers. On Friday our objective was Ancient Art for the day. We were told that there was going to be tons of crowds so we better get up early. That did not happen. We started the approach at 8:30 and to our surprise we were the first ones on the route. We scramble up and i linked maybe p1 and 2? Steve lead the 30 foot pitch to the cat walk. We did the summit and they got the heck off of the rock. The route took us less than an hour to climb. We didn't place a single cam or nut so if i was to do this again i would just bring a set of draws. For being a super classic, the climbing was rather boring. However, the summit was super classic. Would i do it again? Probably not.
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This place is a pile of mud.
This place is a pile of mud.
Credit: Madskates
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Steve on the 30 foot pitch 2.
Steve on the 30 foot pitch 2.
Credit: Madskates
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Me doing the cat walk.
Me doing the cat walk.
Credit: Madskates
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Standing on mud.
Standing on mud.
Credit: Madskates
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Steve was a little intimidated by the diving board.
Steve was a little intimidated by the diving board.
Credit: Madskates
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Yeah boy!
Yeah boy!
Credit: Madskates
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With so much time left in the day we went over to do the Lonely Vigil on Light House tower. The approach wasn't fun but the climbing was well worth it. One thing we have learned about tower climbing is that the raps seem to be the crux of the route.
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Light House was the furthest tower on the right?
Light House was the furthest tower on the right?
Credit: Madskates
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P1
P1
Credit: Madskates
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Does stemming get any better?
Does stemming get any better?
Credit: Madskates
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"serious" pose on the p3 traverse.
"serious" pose on the p3 traverse.
Credit: Madskates
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Credit: Madskates
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So hyped to be back on the ground without stuck ropes.
So hyped to be back on the ground without stuck ropes.
Credit: Madskates
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Next day we headed up to do fine jade. With one party on it we had to wait a minute but that was all good. After all, we were just out here to have some casual fun. However, p1 was not casual. I found the pitch to be the crux. p2 was absolutely amazing! For p3 we did the direct finish on the sport line. It was amazing! This was the only tower we climbed today but it was so much fun!
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Morning sun on Fine Jade.
Morning sun on Fine Jade.
Credit: Madskates
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These morning approaches are beautiful.
These morning approaches are beautiful.
Credit: Madskates
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Summit baby!
Summit baby!
Credit: Madskates
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Credit: Madskates
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The next day we got up early to go do Kor-Ingalls. We got up to the route a little before 8 expecting crowds but there was no one. Welcome to sundays in Utah. However, that approach up to the towers sucks two days back to back. I didn't take any pictures on the route but it only took us about an hour and a half. The route was slick and average (I'm not the biggest fan of wide climbing). North Chimney was much more enjoyable. We rapped Kor and headed into town to get food and do some school work.
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Credit: Madskates
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Credit: Madskates
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Credit: Madskates
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Stuck writing papers on this beautiful day.
Stuck writing papers on this beautiful day.
Credit: Madskates
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We camped in Kane Creek and it was really beautiful. We were up nice and early to avoid any kind of a run in with a ranger, since who wants to pay for camping when we have to pay for school? We were able to climb Abraxes Tower on our way out. I didn't get any pictures but if your in the canyon i would really recommend it! Then we went over to arches and check out some of the tourist stuff before heading home.
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Awesome "free" camping in Kane.
Awesome "free" camping in Kane.
Credit: Madskates
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Credit: Madskates
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On the way back home we decided to do a fast run up Layered Cake in Rock Canyon, Provo. Steve lives in provo so we figured why not get one more route in before the day was over. Its 9 pitches, however 7 of those are rather easy climbing 5.9> with one 10b pitch on it which happens to be the last one, all on below average rock. Sounds like a perfect way to end a trip. We started at 6pm and topped out at 6:49 which was a great note to end on.
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Steve on top.
Steve on top.
Credit: Madskates
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Madskates
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Comments
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Apr 15, 2015 - 02:27pm PT
Nice! I've enjoyed those routes too. Looks to me like the Corkscrew might follow the Cobra to sandstone heaven any century now.
jonnyrig

climber
  Apr 15, 2015 - 02:48pm PT
Looks like lots of fun.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
  Apr 15, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
amazing!!!! How much you covered in a short time.
Beautiful pictures.
I agree with Jim...AA is increasingly looking more and more feeble.

Susan
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Apr 15, 2015 - 05:04pm PT
Getting it done - a very nice report and great photos!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 15, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
Awesome thanks for sharing!!!!
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Apr 15, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
Looked like
good times
great climbs.

Thanks for TR.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Apr 15, 2015 - 08:04pm PT
Good times!

Last route: 9 pitches in 49 minutes?

Loved the pic of the flowering plant in the red soil.

Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Apr 15, 2015 - 08:08pm PT
Excellent effort and report! I totally agree with you about the first pitch of Fine Jade . . . tricky transition.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Apr 16, 2015 - 11:30am PT
Ya dude! Abraxas was a worthwhile jaunt I thought. That last pitch chimney was rather fun, and the full 60m rap was cool too.

As for lighthouse we rapped it with one 70 in 2 raps, and it was super smooth sailing. Rap towards dolomite about 15-20m to the NE face route anchor, and then a full 35m rap to the ground. Spits you out like 40ft from the first pitch.
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