Aka Stairway to heaven and Jimmy's Chimney in Dessert rock III but for some reason (edit: it appears Stewart Green, friend of jimmy Dunn uses this name in His, guidebook; he prolly knows!) it's under the name I used in the title on Mountain Project. And, after climbing it, that name seems to me be the best fit.

It was 4/20 and desert rock III says it's 420'. And we ( Grug, myself & Laurent-surname unknown) are desert climbers who like the Wyde. Seemed like a good fit to us!

A bonus of this route is that it stays in the shade until mid afternoon, which worked with our crack of ten start.
The first lead was moderate with a five ten crux, but the rock did nothing to inspire confidence.
Craig led brilliantly, I was shaken if not stirred, Laurent was.. French.

Laurent got the next lead and I got to clean that one as well. All fun ( if not exactly following the book's description) until I came around a corner to a wild looking face climb, blind reach around a corner. The pitch ended with some knobby blobettes. Laurent said he could reach the top from some blobs. When I got there though the guide said, five ten, it looked like A0 to me as I stepped on the drilled pin and mantled the choss above.
Grug said, "5.11"

The next lead was mine, the second shortest, 50', and easiest 5.7, lead....Every move was a motile slide fest. A circuitess pitch, I placed a good cam, mantled a four foot wide pasted on flake, that I was sure would take me to the bottom. I was able to place two green cams in a good-ish crack above it. Then traverse left, on fairy dust, wipe the climb off my feet, place two more indifferent cams and follow a series of reasonable handcracks ( I wasn't trusting anything by then) onto a ledge festooned with creaky, feebly interlocked, irregularly shaped rocks.
"Off belay" at least we were still in the shade!

As I belayed G & L up I eyeballed the reason we were here, pitch four, the "five star five ten, Wyde pitch."
It looked promising, and the cleanest pitch on the route!

Go Grug!
Grug disappeared into the chimney shortly after that, where the Real fun started! Tight in the back, bombaying outward in to a smooth, sandy flair. It was an essay on staying on the sweet spot where upward, not downward, progress was possible. Again, Grug's talent for reading rocks served him well!

Then it was Laurent's turn.

As Laurent made his way up I trundled some death blocks as the ledge went in the sun, ugh!
Climbing into the shade of the crack was a joy, romping up the chimney, a pleasure. Mantling on to a death block at the end of the pitch, reminded me of where we were!


Laurent got the last lead. Short, five ten weirdness, to what was rattley fingers for us, a good fit for Grug.
Go Laurent!

A green Camalot, stuck waiting for a rap retrieval....

Top out on 420

Twenty minutes with a nut tool on rappell and the green came clean!