Trip Report
First ascents in Kyrgyzstan
Friday November 27, 2015 11:44am
In 2011 I went to Kyrgyzstan with a couple of friends to do some exploration in a small unclimbed range on the border to China. We got flown straight into the middle of the range, which had only been visited a handful of times before. We managed to do some first ascents, however, the main thing was actually the sheer adventure of hiking through unknown valleys and discovering a way to even get to the base of the mountains. Without a single fixed objective one can relax more and just take in the full experience. I highly recommend this way of climbing in the mountains. Throw away your guide books and find your own way on the peaks that look appealing to you.

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Local hut.
Local hut.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Old Soviet helicopter that took us into the middle of the range.
Old Soviet helicopter that took us into the middle of the range.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Base camp.
Base camp.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Pristine mountain valley.
Pristine mountain valley.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Previous explorers in the valley.
Previous explorers in the valley.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Getting into the mountains.
Getting into the mountains.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Route scouting.
Route scouting.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Every single one of these peaks were unclimbed at the time.
Every single one of these peaks were unclimbed at the time.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Snow climbing.
Snow climbing.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Windy evening.
Windy evening.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Waking up at a bivy.
Waking up at a bivy.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Towards an unclimbed summit.
Towards an unclimbed summit.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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More unclimbed peaks in the background.
More unclimbed peaks in the background.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Summit ridge.
Summit ridge.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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Claiming a summit.
Claiming a summit.
Credit: KristofferSzilas
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There is a bit more about the climbs here:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11x/newswire-djangart-alpha

Here is a Youtube summary of the experience:
[Click to View YouTube Video]

  Trip Report Views: 3,162
KristofferSzilas
About the Author
Kristoffer Szilas is a mountain climber from Denmark.

Comments
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Nov 27, 2015 - 12:05pm PT
bump, well why not a bump right at the out-set ?
Great Stuff!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 27, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
Very nice. The first paragraph is fairly spot on. Can't ever 'fail' when your objective is to explore! :)
KristofferSzilas

Mountain climber
Denmark
Author's Reply  Nov 29, 2015 - 03:34pm PT
Btw. there is an expedition report (13 MB PDF) here:
http://www.kristofferszilas.com/Articles/Kyrgyzstan_2011_Report.pdf
In case somebody wants more details about the area.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Dec 1, 2015 - 02:29pm PT
Wonder what this feels like, to be in a place like this with this atmosphere all around you, most of us will never know

JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Dec 1, 2015 - 02:42pm PT
Your excellent, exotic trip reports keep expanding my climbing world. Thank you very much.

John
KristofferSzilas

Mountain climber
Denmark
Author's Reply  Dec 1, 2015 - 07:20pm PT

Wonder what this feels like, to be in a place like this with this atmosphere all around you, most of us will never know

Feels like being on the planet Hoth (Star Wars).
Many places in the Alaska Range have a similar ambience.
Levy

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
  Dec 1, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
Your trip reports continue to inspire myself and others to look beyond the norm for otherworldly experiences in the mountains. Thank you so much!
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Dec 1, 2015 - 08:56pm PT
Inspirational to me.

Hopefully, your adventure is also inspirational to

the young folks.

Thanks for sharing it.
wayne burleson

climber
Amherst, MA
  Dec 1, 2015 - 09:20pm PT
Great photos, video, report. You're really thorough!
And very inspiring approach. Makes me re-think what climbing's all about. Thanks!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Dec 2, 2015 - 03:17am PT
Throw away your guide books and find your own way on the peaks that look appealing to you
YES!
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Dec 2, 2015 - 03:10pm PT
real adventure ,,we all know its out there ,,,thanks for the real thing,,
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Dec 5, 2015 - 03:32am PT
Bump for the real deal!
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  May 5, 2016 - 01:28pm PT
Bump for great climbing content
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  May 5, 2016 - 02:49pm PT
I was looking at Kyrg mountains on a digital map the other day. Lots of great looking stuff in that range.

Sweet trip!!
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