On the descent from the summit during the night we of course got hit by a storm. Being very tired my climbing partner took a fall and slid on his back down one side of the icy ridge. I didn't have much time to think, but the only way tp keep him from pulling me off too was to jump down the other side of the ridge. So that is exactly what I did. Pretty sketchy, but sometimes the easy climbing is what is the most dangerous...
Needless to say, this was a real adventure and there are literally hundreds of similar peaks waiting for their FA in the Sicuan Province and the eastern region of Tibet as Tamotsu Nakamura has documented in many reports such as this one http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/wfeature-nakamura-unclimbed-peaks
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 Approach across steep permafrozen dirt slope. Notice the crampons... Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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 Approach couloir. Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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 Lots of digging to solid footholds. Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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 More snow. Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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 Getting to some rock. Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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 Upper couloir. Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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 Bivy on some rocks as we could not find room for our tent. Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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 Mixed dihedral. Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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 Finally on the ridge, but we were too late to continue to the summit that day. Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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 We found a spot for the tent to the side of the ridge. Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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 Icy ridge. Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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 Bulletproof ice. Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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 Steep glacier ice to gain the final summit ridge. Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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 Stepping onto a previously unclimbed summit was an almost religious feeling. Credit: KristofferSzilas |
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There is a Youtube slidshow of the climb here:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
