Trip Report
Finger of Fate- Open book 5.8+++++ and the Crystal cave!
Wednesday September 19, 2012 10:34pm
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I first heard of the Finger of Fate from John Frieh, a total bad a$$ alpinist I climbed with at the city of rocks in April of 2010 or so. John said something like, it’s one of the best climbs I’ve ever done, and it’s only 5.8.
More on the 5.8 part later.
One of my regular climbing partners Matt L and I had the opportunity to climb it this Monday. We were more then a little apprehensive about the fires that are ragin in the area, so far 1.5 million acres have burned in Idaho this season, more then any other state. Other then a little smoke and diminished views, it wasn’t a problem. We left East Idaho at 2 pm or so on Sunday and after picking up a half case of Pabst Blue ribbon in Arco (is there a more depressing town any where?) we managed to make Stanley in time for dinner at the burger joint. I talked to two paramedics who were working with the fire crews, they said the fires were expected to burn until snowfall.
We made it up to the upper Hell-roaring lake trail head, in day light, it is a very rough road, with 4-low almost required (unless you hate your car).
We had a few beers and no fire (sadly a burning ban was in place), camping sucks with out a fire.
Sunset day 1
I got up at 5:30 and read a book, Matt fought the urge to stay in his bag, and arose grudgingly at 6:30. It was Still 23 degres when we left at 8 am on the trail head. It was a 5.5 mile approach up 2000+ vertical gain past some stunning country to the base of the route, prolly took us 3.5 hours from the upper trail head.
A beautiful upper unnamed lake a perfect camping spot!!!
This grouse almost scared me senseless on the approach!
East face up close
I got the first lead.
Looking Down p1
The Open book had some serious off width for which I employed my number 5 camalot, as I am a chicken sh*t for sure!!!
I started out really cold it was probably 30 degrees in the shade at 11 am when we started, but was sweating profusely by the end of pitch1
Up p2, Pitch two was stellar and also requried the#4 and #5 camalot (new sizes)
Mid way up pitch two we found a really cool crystal cave mid route, Awesome!!!
down p2
down p5
Pitch 6 had no protection at all in 100 feet and required tunneling under a huge block and then a 45 foot unprotectable 5.8+ arette, with massive exposuure.
We topped out at 3:15 were back at the base at 4:15 and at the car at 6:30 and were thankful for the uneventful drive home, over all a Stellar route with a great partner for sure!!!! One of my best routes yet!!!
Ezra Ellis
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About the Author Ezra Ellis is a trad climber from WA, & NC & Idaho. |
Comments
kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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Sep 19, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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awesome! tfpu
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Sep 19, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
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Sh#t yeah Ezra, that Peak looks incredible. Way to steal the best pitch too. Good job and TR.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 19, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
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That formation looks great. Great TR also as always.
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labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
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Sep 19, 2012 - 10:45pm PT
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I miss Idaho.....
Nice post!
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mountain dog
Trad climber
over the hills and far away
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Sep 19, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
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Good stuff,
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Sep 19, 2012 - 11:03pm PT
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Gotta love them Sawtooths. Nice job, Ezra.
The Finger is sweet.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Sep 19, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
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Ezra! I am so glad you got to enjoy "The Finger."
When I first climbed it in mountain boots in 1971, it was rated 5.6----and I was terrified most of the way.
My next ascent was in 1977 and I was vastly more experienced!
Like you folks, we trotted in from the trail-head, but then
Based on knowing the route was “only” 5.6-----I insisted we could climb it in our hiking boots.
After leading the first pitch, my very good climber friend Mike commented: “Christ Fritz! That seems a little spicy for 5.6.”
The 2nd lead was mine, and my boots did not fit in the crack!
I was again terrified the whole pitch and slipped on the crux friction moves out of the crack at the top. I managed a one-arm swing, and somehow pulled up to a ledge.
Mike had the “lightly-protected” summit lead and kept muttering that it felt like bouldering 5.9.
I of course, assured him the route was only rated 5.6.
5.6 for sure! Nuts and hiking boots. That’s all you need on The Finger!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Author's Reply
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Sep 20, 2012 - 12:00am PT
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Fritz,
I can't even imagine climbing that thing with a couple of nuts and lugged boots. Wow, My hat is off to you pioneers.
What number Ascent do you think you were???
When was the first ascent done. I have been unable to find much info on the route.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 20, 2012 - 12:01am PT
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If Jogn Freih likes it, it must be good! Great write up and pictures, thanks for sharing.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Sep 20, 2012 - 12:13am PT
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Ezra: Thanks!
Of course, there was little written information on climbs in the Sawtooths in the early 70's and I don't think there was anything published on The Finger.
However, The Finger was getting climbed a fair amount. Dorworth had already put up a harder new route.
The Open-Book felt like a "trade-route" to us, because we knew at least another 3 or 4 parties had climbed it, and likely more.
The secret lure of the Sawtooths is "fun-adventure"----and no guidebook!
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Zander
climber
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Sep 20, 2012 - 12:14am PT
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Great TR's
Thanks,
Zander
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 20, 2012 - 12:27am PT
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ROCK ON EZRA!
So awesome and beautiful.
Thanks for putting this up.
Something else I haven't been to...GRRRRRR!!!!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Sep 20, 2012 - 12:36am PT
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Oh! Look at the Grouse. - Curly Howard
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cowpoke
climber
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Sep 20, 2012 - 08:22am PT
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Positive reinforcement for the TR and history! Another one worth coming back to again and again...thanks
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Sep 20, 2012 - 10:37am PT
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That's really a worthwhile climb. Tons of fun, nice setting, entertaining summit block to be sure.
Just be sure to descend off the right side, the left way gets a bit wankerish.
Next to last pitch looks something like this:
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Sep 20, 2012 - 10:43am PT
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Enjoyed your TR. Nice formation.
lars
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 20, 2012 - 10:49am PT
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Good job....I've always wanted to climb that puppy.
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Sep 20, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
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Nice TR. I think the FS must've improved the Upper Hell Roaring TH road (this year or last) - now Subaru's make it & they've built a new trail (2 miles or so of it) on the TH side of the stream. Kind of weird since there's the old trail that comes in from the lower trailhead running parallel on the opposite bank.
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paperplate
Social climber
Boyzee, Hi-dee-ho
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Sep 20, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
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that next to last pitch is called Airy by local climbers and is the most exciting pitch of the climb, being a nice arm-width wide flake that is a bombproof crab walk up. to gain the flake you leave the relative safety of a super ledge and step back out onto the face with 500 feet of exposure below you. above it there is a nice section of friction climbing with your last pro in the exit of the flake that is now ten-fifteen feet below.
have to say something for the last pitch too...it's just as exciting with a two finger lie-back into a crystal pocket and then a mantle to gain the sloping summit block.
this was my very first trad climb back around 1975. since then I have been up it three other routes. one, Feeling Free, is just to the climbers right and joins the Open Book route just below the flake.
great rock, as is the Elephant's Perch up Redfish creek canyon, just a few miles further north.
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imStein
Trad climber
Triumph, Idaho
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Sep 21, 2012 - 10:07am PT
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Thanks for a fine TR, Ezra.
The Finger is a Sawtooth classic.
Louis Stur had a 17 lb crystal that he found on the open Book.
I would like to add a few 40 year old photos...
I never did like the summit move.
imStein
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 21, 2012 - 10:23am PT
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Exactly my fing, er, thing!
One thumb up for the Finger of Fate.
Fritz freed the ficking fing, the fickle old fart!
Good on yez on all of these intrepid ascents and TY for the TRs.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Sep 21, 2012 - 10:22am PT
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Way to post up Imstein!
Those photos are of the 1st winter ascent of the Finger by the hard-lads of the Decker Flat Climbing & Frisbee Club.
I was supposed to be on that trip, but instead spent those days in comfort, shacked up in Ketchum with a hot babe. I have some regrets, but none at the time.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Author's Reply
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Sep 22, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
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Thanks for the kind words all
The first ascent according to a 2001 climbing magazine article by Mark Weber was: John Beaupre, and Gordon Webster in 1967, a very impressive route for the time, they are Idaho locals according to the article.
imstein- wow the first winter ascent, March I hope???
that had to be hella cold, I was cold in September, can't imagine climbing that dark north face in the winter,
Great pics from the way back!
Paperplate, what did you think of the other routes on the finger?
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PaulPeterson
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ
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Sep 23, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
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Nice TR. Did you guys climb this over labor day weekend ?,
If so, we were the 2 old guys camping at unnamed lake.
We were able to backpack over the pass at Red Bluff, down to Crammer Lakes.
Tricky but saves the 17 miles it is to hike there on known trails.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
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Sep 25, 2012 - 04:57am PT
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Two thumbs up for the Finger! You're making me start to realize that I haven't climbed any trad in Idaho yet . .. :-)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 28, 2012 - 02:00am PT
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That looks f*ckin' RAD!
Great pics of a stellar looking route.
I still dont know what TPFU means
but this probably deserves it
TEE EFF PEE HUE
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Sep 28, 2012 - 10:12am PT
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TFPU
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 28, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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What a stellar looking climb and great TR. Thanks.
Pitch 6 had no protection at all in 100 feet and required tunneling under a huge block and then a 45 foot unprotectable 5.8+ arette, with massive exposuure.
That probably knocks me out of the running.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Sep 28, 2012 - 10:56am PT
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Thanks For Posting Up folks.
Since this TR has legs: I'd better post some more vintage photos.
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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Sep 28, 2012 - 11:01am PT
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Pitch 6 had no protection at all in 100 feet and required tunneling under a huge block and then a 45 foot unprotectable 5.8+ arette, with massive exposuure. The tunneling part isn't hard, and you can get a cam in but it isn't really needed. The very last move of the climb is an exposed mantle onto the very top of the summit block, protected (as of a few years ago) by an ancient fixed pin. Great finish!
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Gal
Trad climber
going big air to fakie
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Sep 28, 2012 - 11:33am PT
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Very cool-45ft of run-out on 5.8+.... yikes.... looks awesome, great job.
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Sep 28, 2012 - 11:53am PT
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what a fun route!
my wife on the summit mantle:
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The Larry
climber
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Nov 11, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
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Awesome! Looks like a great climb. No summit beers?
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Author's Reply
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Nov 11, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
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Larry, we had beers the night before, maybe one the night we got home,
Next time maybe , next time. ;)
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Nov 11, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
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It's fun to see this thread "pop-up" again tonight.
I had hopes of a couple of talented friends climbing the Open Book with me and Heidi this summer. One fell off a ladder and broke his arm, one was mostly out of country.
Then there were the big forest fires that filled the Sawtooths with smoke for the month of August.
Donini! Yeah! That's the ticket!
Donini wants to climb it, and I know the short-cut for old guys.
Next year for sure!
Idaho is some of the best "NEXT-YEAR" country I've ever lived in!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 11, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
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Still has awesomeness upon it!
Thanks to all that have posted pix to this fine thread!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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The Finger has now reached the "next-stage." Some adventurous folks rigged a long rope between the Finger & the next un-named summit to the west & walked it this weekend.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Whoa, Fritz, that's horrifying. I did the climb many years ago and was plenty freaked on the summit block. I figured if I peeled, I was going to do a corkscrew pendulum and smack the ledge. I had little faith in that old pin. Yoiks! The slackline? Ugh.
BAd
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Thank you, Fritzoid, for bumping this high-qual thread!
Ez & Matt, cheers! Whoo-hoo!
Totally fickle!!!!!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Author's Reply
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Sep 5, 2018 - 03:39am PT
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Fritz, wow it’s kind of insane slack lining between those formations.
I guess sports certainly evolve.
Mouse,
Thanks for the kind words.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Awesome! Thanks for sharing
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