Trip Report
Fairest Of All (Fairview Dome) Sept. 2011
Tuesday October 4, 2011 11:37pm
We (my climbing partner, the ever ready Jay Wood and I) love the older climbs of Tuolumne Meadows. We especially enjoy the Kamps/Higgins routes. With this in mind, we set off to the Mighty Fairview Dome and a mutual bucket list climb, Fairest Of All. We had been to the climb the day before and I led the first pitch, gardening away the previous long winters growth. We then returned the next day to have a go. A beautiful late summer day that was just the right temperature to try scary slab.......

Having cleaned the first pitch the day before, Jay set off onto one of the longer faces on the dome. The pictures aren't the greatest due to a dead battery in the digital, so we had to use a throw away film job. I hope it conveys..... Pitch 1 is a bit of dicey run out 10a. Jay cruised it in good style.
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Looking up the route....Jay barely visible at 1st pitch belay
Looking up the route....Jay barely visible at 1st pitch belay
Credit: wstmrnclmr
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My turn next....Script shows pitch 2 dotting traverse left to bolt, then belay. Climbed some hard face 20' sideways from pro, didn't see the bolt until I reached the belay. Consensus back at the climbers campfire put it at old school, scary 10d.r.......and crux of the climb.
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Pitch 2 (yikes)........
Pitch 2 (yikes)........
Credit: wstmrnclmr
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We then wended our way up more reasonable climbing. The route had been rebolted so they weren't as hard to find.
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Starting up pitch 4.....Fairest of All
Starting up pitch 4.....Fairest of All
Credit: Jaywood!
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Jay led up pitch 5 and to the start of the beautiful red/gold 5.9 hand crack leading up to the big roof. A truly great bit of crack climbing in one of the most beautiful settings we've been to. For some reason we didn't get a photo of it.....to busy enjoying the moment.
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Jay cruising up pitch 5 towards big roof.....
Jay cruising up pitch 5 towards big roof.....
Credit: wstmrnclmr
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After climbing the beautiful pitch six we came to the infamous traverse pitch noted well in the story of the first ascent by Tom Higgins. http://www.tomhiggins.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=48&Itemid=22
Jay was up next for the lead and took off...The climbing was 5.9r and exhilarating because of location. We both found the pitch more reasonable than expected. Great fun!
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Eyeballing the preparations for take-off......pitch 7
Eyeballing the preparations for take-off......pitch 7
Credit: wstmrnclmr
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Following pitch 7....
Following pitch 7....
Credit: wstmrnclmr
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I led up pitch 8 with some nice crack climbing scenery. Then Jay geared up for the supposed crux pitch 9.
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Jay eyeballing moves stage left, pitch 9....
Jay eyeballing moves stage left, pitch 9....
Credit: wstmrnclmr
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There is a bolt at the crux and Jay cruised on through at 10.c pg..........We came to the "U" shaped bowl where the FA party spent the night. A beautiful place to camp if one chooses to......
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Jay enjoying the view above "U" shaped bowl.....
Jay enjoying the view above "U" shaped bowl.....
Credit: wstmrnclmr
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Then easy climbing to the top where we were greeted by the setting sun and waves of shimmering polish on the backside.
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Happy at the top.....
Happy at the top.....
Credit: wstmrnclmr
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A great example of the style and artistry of climbing at that time as done by Higgins, Kamps and Irwin 1973. A beautiful wandering affair in one of the most beautiful settings in the world....Go do it!




  Trip Report Views: 2,412
wstmrnclmr
About the Author
wstmrnclmr is a trad climber from Bolinas, CA.

Comments
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Oct 4, 2011 - 11:42pm PT
excellent! thanks for the post. Nice to see some shots from this classic.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Oct 4, 2011 - 11:50pm PT
Spicy climbing and fun TR; well done.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Oct 5, 2011 - 12:15am PT
like
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
  Oct 5, 2011 - 01:20am PT
Tony, glad to hear that you and Jay were able to cruise that after your gardening!

-Matt
The Wolf

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
  Oct 5, 2011 - 11:02am PT
Nice TR and nice shirt. Who the hell is Dope Miller?
NA_Kid

Big Wall climber
The Bear State
  Oct 5, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
Nice! I have been wanting to do this climb for many seasons. Guess i have to buck up and just do it now.
Cheers!
msiddens

Trad climber
  Oct 5, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
Nice work guys, ever bit as fun to read.
spyork

Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
  Oct 5, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
Nice TR. Looks a bit too stout for me. :)

It's Mike Irwin, not Irvin. I still see him bouldering in the gym. He tells me doesn't do routes any more, but still gets out backpacking.

Steve
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Oct 5, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
Hey there Tony, great TR. you and Jay are ticking them off right, left and center. Good on ya.
Fred
wstmrnclmr

Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
Author's Reply  Oct 5, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
Thanks Spyork for the typo. Spelling's correct in story but not in guide.
alpinerockfiend

Trad climber
the Magic City
  Oct 5, 2011 - 01:26pm PT
Rad!
cleggy

Trad climber
Derby, UK
  Oct 5, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
... and it's Higgins - at least the link was right ...
cowpoke

climber
  Oct 5, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
very cool!!
old school, scary 10d.r
yowza.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
  Oct 5, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
Awesome guys. hopefully we all can eek out some more days in the high country this seaosn.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
  Oct 5, 2011 - 04:13pm PT
that is a very classic route. i did this in 1986 so i could get a good look at the line scott burke and i did called a farewell to kings..
ks
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Oct 5, 2011 - 04:17pm PT
Nice report.
Gee, I know some of this is tricks of memory, but I got the 2nd pitch,
and I recall it as one of the 5.9 pitches, with the hardest climbing
coming on the last real pitch, after the traverse.
Maybe there are different ways to go, with some luck involved?
O.D.

Trad climber
LA LA Land
  Oct 5, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
A beaut of a route, and classy TR. Looks like you barely beat the snow.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Oct 5, 2011 - 04:22pm PT
Good job gents!
wstmrnclmr

Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
Author's Reply  Oct 5, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
Kid.....we looked at "a farewell to kings" on the traverse of "inverted staircase". Awesome route. We are going to try one of your routes these days. We're getting there. Scruffy B, if you read the other TR about fairest, you'll read that the guy fell leading the second pitch.....and one of the SAR guys who rebolted the climb last year concurred......And thanks Cleggy for the spell check.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 5, 2011 - 10:38pm PT
Sweet!
Zander

climber
  Oct 6, 2011 - 11:55pm PT
Great stuff guys! Thanks,
Z
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Oct 7, 2011 - 09:15am PT
TFPU!
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