We (my climbing partner, the ever ready Jay Wood and I) love the older climbs of Tuolumne Meadows. We especially enjoy the Kamps/Higgins routes. With this in mind, we set off to the Mighty Fairview Dome and a mutual bucket list climb, Fairest Of All. We had been to the climb the day before and I led the first pitch, gardening away the previous long winters growth. We then returned the next day to have a go. A beautiful late summer day that was just the right temperature to try scary slab.......
Having cleaned the first pitch the day before, Jay set off onto one of the longer faces on the dome. The pictures aren't the greatest due to a dead battery in the digital, so we had to use a throw away film job. I hope it conveys..... Pitch 1 is a bit of dicey run out 10a. Jay cruised it in good style.
My turn next....Script shows pitch 2 dotting traverse left to bolt, then belay. Climbed some hard face 20' sideways from pro, didn't see the bolt until I reached the belay. Consensus back at the climbers campfire put it at old school, scary 10d.r.......and crux of the climb.
We then wended our way up more reasonable climbing. The route had been rebolted so they weren't as hard to find.
Jay led up pitch 5 and to the start of the beautiful red/gold 5.9 hand crack leading up to the big roof. A truly great bit of crack climbing in one of the most beautiful settings we've been to. For some reason we didn't get a photo of it.....to busy enjoying the moment.
After climbing the beautiful pitch six we came to the infamous traverse pitch noted well in the story of the first ascent by Tom Higgins.
http://www.tomhiggins.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=48&Itemid=22
Jay was up next for the lead and took off...The climbing was 5.9r and exhilarating because of location. We both found the pitch more reasonable than expected. Great fun!
I led up pitch 8 with some nice crack climbing scenery. Then Jay geared up for the supposed crux pitch 9.
There is a bolt at the crux and Jay cruised on through at 10.c pg..........We came to the "U" shaped bowl where the FA party spent the night. A beautiful place to camp if one chooses to......
Then easy climbing to the top where we were greeted by the setting sun and waves of shimmering polish on the backside.
A great example of the style and artistry of climbing at that time as done by Higgins, Kamps and Irwin 1973. A beautiful wandering affair in one of the most beautiful settings in the world....Go do it!