Trip Report
FA Peak 10,510

by johnkelley
Wednesday November 23, 2011 2:11pm
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Jim Beyer and I flew in thinking of doing something else but in the end we settled on this. It took around 20 hours to go from our camp to the summit and back. It,s about a 5,000 foot gain with about 3,000 feet of ice climbing. Nothing very hard.

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  Trip Report Views: 2,300
johnkelley 		About the Author
johnkelley is a climber from Anchorage Alaska.

Comments
pc

climber
  Nov 23, 2011 - 02:16pm PT
Nice going! That's a good looking adventure.
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Nov 23, 2011 - 02:51pm PT
Looks like a beaut of a route! The solitude must have been one of the best parts of this outing.

Was this with THE Jim Beyer, of solo big wall fame? Was this a recent ascent, or sometime in the more distant past?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Nov 23, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
Yeah it's Jim Beyer the big wall soloist. We hadn't climbed together since I moved to Alaska. The last route we did was the Kelley/Beyer on Mt. Moran in the Tetons. So we decided the St. Elias range would be good idea. We were in there last July/ August.
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Nov 23, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
Wow -- you guys were, and are, hard core. I hadn't heard of your route on Moran so I did a little checking:


Doing .12a in an alpine setting is really out there! I did have a near-death experience on Moran, once, now that I think of it. Did an ascent of the skillet when it was too warm and the snow turned into slippery-slush. The way up was OK, but on the way down I got into a sliding mode that couldn't be checked with the pick of my ax. I think it was actually the adz that provided enough drag to slow me down; I ought to mention that on the 'adz' thread...

Thanks, John, for responding to my questions.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
  Nov 24, 2011 - 11:45am PT
Oh. Jim Beyer.


Jim on Martyr's Brigade:

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP01/climbing-note-beyer

I drilled a lot of bolts, but chopped about an equal number on surrounding routes. Creating hard pitches, destroying pathetic bolt ladders (Early Morning Light)—it seemed to balance out in the end.
johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
  Nov 24, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
Looks pretty stout and radical to me.
TFPU.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 25, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
Awesome John, Thanks!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Nov 25, 2011 - 08:07pm PT
TFPUAC!

My ignorance about geography extends to the whereabouts of peak 10,510. Where in the Saint Elias Range can it be found?
Stewart Johnson

Gym climber
top lake
  Nov 25, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
very nice
Phred

Mountain climber
Anchorage
  Nov 26, 2011 - 09:47pm PT
I did some serious map checking to locate this one. Peak 10510 is really a point on the west ridge of Celeno Peak in The Twaharpies. The route was apparently from the Canyon Creek Glacier.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 27, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
Another great post. Most of us only dream about having places like that to play in. How much does it cost to for the air drop for something like that?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Nov 27, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
We paid $900 each, $1800 total, for our flight. Same for the trip to University.

Last time I was in the Ruth it was $350 each but I've heard it's around $600 now.

I heard Clint and Scotty paid around $1250 each, $2500 total, to get to Masulous in the Revelations.

Aaron, Sam, and Ben spent something similar to approach the Dog Tooth in the Necolies.

So it seems the AK Range is the least expensive. It's also by far the easiest and least expensive to get to if you don't have a car here.

Will Elliot and his partner hiked in and did a new route on Silverthrone , AK range, too.
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