Trip Report
Eiger 3970m - via Mittellegi!
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Thursday December 15, 2016 1:09am
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Warm greetings SuperTopoists from a grey old day in Bristol in the UK.
Here's a final pre-Xmas contribution for 2016 of a wee video I filmed a few years ago so probably not quite as polished as more recent efforts...
Anyway ever since reading Heinrich Harrer's inspiring and classic mountaineering book “The White Spider” many years ago, it had been an ambition of mine to climb the infamous and iconic Eiger 3970m in Grindelwald, Switzerland. However being a climber of rather modest abilities, the classic traverse ascending via the superbly exposed Mittellegi Ridge (D) and descending by the excellent South Ridge (AD) with a traverse of the exciting Eigerjochs was the most realistic option for me. So with my 2 partners in crime, the Team Pinkies, we took out a second mortgage and hopped onto the wallet crunchingly expensive Jungfraujoch Express. Here we got off at the penultimate Eismeer Station, descended into the tunnels before popping out onto the Challifirn Glacier and the following is a short film of our 2 day adventure:
[ Click to View YouTube Video]
So has anyone else climbed this superbly exposed route and have any tales of derring-do or an epic to share? Or climbed the infamous North Face/Nordwand? Had a nightmare descending the tottering, loose South West flank? Or an encounter with a pushy guide? Or did your tour go like clockwork. Please feel free to share any of your Eiger memories or stories here!
Anyway all constructive feedback welcome, please feel free to share and hopefully it will inspire 1 or 2 folks to visit the amazing Bernese Oberland in Switzerland and climb some of the many fantastic routes on offer!
A very merry Xmas to you all and wishing you a healthy + rocking 2017 :-)
Dave
Bald Eagle
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About the Author
Bald Eagle is a trad climber from the UK who likes to boldly go where quite a few people have been before... :-) |
Comments
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Dec 15, 2016 - 04:53am PT
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Eagle, (Dave!)
Eager am I to see your take on the Eiger , a break in my hyatus I make
Best wishes for a happy merry right back atchoo, Gotd Bless. . .
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newport
Sport climber
UK
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Dec 15, 2016 - 03:41am PT
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Another very timely and motivating video Dave, just what is needed on a dank, foggy day! I need to convert my wish list of routes into a "mission accomplished " list. I look forward to the next instalment.
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Woody the Beaver
Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
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Dec 15, 2016 - 07:45am PT
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Much fun! Thanks!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 15, 2016 - 08:05am PT
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This is connoisseur stuff.
Thanks!
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TLP
climber
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Dec 15, 2016 - 02:55pm PT
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What's the fun of climbing the Eiger in such fine weather? ;-)
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Dec 16, 2016 - 01:02am PT
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Another very timely and motivating video Dave, just what is needed on a dank, foggy day! I need to convert my wish list of routes into a "mission accomplished " list. I look forward to the next instalment.
Hey Newport, Gnome, Tad, Woody, and Tarbuster thanks a million for taking the time to post your kind words as it is hugely appreciated!
And Newport make sure some of that wish list of yours is converted into mission accomplished in 2017! I've got a big file of climbing + filming projects to try and work my way through next year... :-)
Have a rocking cool yule all
Dave
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Dec 16, 2016 - 01:12am PT
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What's the fun of climbing the Eiger in such fine weather? ;-)
A helluva lot of fun if truth be told! ;-)
Ironically there had been a big dump of snow 2 days before our ascent so the ridge had been plastered, then melted in the next days sun before verglassing up overnight. Consequently we had to wear poons for most of the ridge and it felt a wee bit harder than D... :-)
A great outing though and one to remember for a long time!
Cheers
Dave
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Dec 16, 2016 - 06:12am PT
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Very cool. Thanks for sharing.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Dec 16, 2016 - 03:35pm PT
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Dave, you have a sharp eye for the beauty in the natural and vertical world,
You've had a great climbing career,
Thanks for including us in your journey!
Cheers!
Ezra
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Dec 16, 2016 - 03:58pm PT
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That summit ridge looked sketchy. I think I would have unroped, or pitched it out. Maybe it was the camera angle? Thanks for sharing.
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Risk
Mountain climber
Marooned, 855 miles from Tuolumne Meadows
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Dec 16, 2016 - 06:08pm PT
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Really nice. Thanks!
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Dec 17, 2016 - 06:11am PT
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Very cool. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Edward, Bargain Hunter + TMJesse and many thanks for your positive words. And Hunter that super-exposed but beautiful summit ridge with crazy views down the upper part of the North Face was thinner than an anorexic After Eight mint in places... :-)
Cheers
Dave
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Dec 17, 2016 - 06:16am PT
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Dave, you have a sharp eye for the beauty in the natural and vertical world,
You've had a great climbing career,
Thanks for including us in your journey!
Thanks a million for the lovely words Ezra! I'm just an average punter who likes to clamber up pointy or unusual natural features whilst clicking of a few images or shooting a wee bit of film... :-)
Cheers
Dave
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Dec 17, 2016 - 10:15am PT
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Thanks for the inspiration! What a beautiful report.
Please post more! Would love to see some stuff from you from Wales, The Peaks, and The Lakes! Such wonderful climbing there.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Dec 17, 2016 - 10:18am PT
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Another beauty of a vid. Bald Eagle is the coolest kid in town...
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i-b-goB
Big Wall climber
Nutty
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Dec 17, 2016 - 10:56am PT
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Yeah, another Gem, the cornice looks sporty!
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Dec 18, 2016 - 03:07am PT
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Thanks for the inspiration! What a beautiful report.
Please post more! Would love to see some stuff from you from Wales, The Peaks, and The Lakes! Such wonderful climbing there.
Hey Mark, Marlow and i-d-goB a maa-hoosive thanks for all your kind words as it makes all the long hours of editing worthwhile. I have a video of a Cornish sea-cliff classic nearly finished and a cool Welsh sea stack edit to cobble together next so watch this space... :-)
Happy Climbing!
Dave
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BrianRI
Trad climber
North Kingstown, RI
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Jan 19, 2017 - 11:59am PT
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Great video. I climbed the Mittellegi in 2005. We summited on August 1st. I noticed that the glaciers where considerably bigger when I was there. About the same amount of snow on the route.
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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Jan 19, 2017 - 12:43pm PT
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bump for ze Eiger, thanks!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jan 19, 2017 - 03:01pm PT
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Fantastic adventure and a beautifully crafted video. Enjoyed the relaxed mood and pace of the editing. Well done. I visited the area with my wife a few years back and fell in love with the entire area. Thank you for the fine memories.
Scott
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Jan 20, 2017 - 04:10am PT
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Great video. I climbed the Mittellegi in 2005. We summited on August 1st. I noticed that the glaciers where considerably bigger when I was there. About the same amount of snow on the route.
Hey Brian, Tami and snakefoot many thanks for taking the time to post your kind words as it is maa-hoosively appreciated! And yes the way glaciers are sadly retreating in the Alps in such a short space of time is very alarming...
Cheers
Dave
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Jan 20, 2017 - 04:05am PT
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Fantastic adventure and a beautifully crafted video. Enjoyed the relaxed mood and pace of the editing. Well done. I visited the area with my wife a few years back and fell in love with the entire area. Thank you for the fine memories.
Scott
Heya Scott indeed it was a great adventure and after reading the White Spider, a long term ambition fulfilled for a bumbly like me to stand on the summit of the infamous Ogre...
Anyway thanks for your positive feedback, glad you enjoyed my wee video and that it also evoked some fine memories for you! That is a great image of you and your better half by the way! ;-)
Cheers
Dave
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Jan 24, 2017 - 01:26pm PT
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Dave,
It is always, ALWAYS a pleasure to see your TRs and watch your videos. You inspire me to get creative with camera and adventures when I finally retire in a few.
Just great stuff, really.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 24, 2017 - 05:51pm PT
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hey there say, wow!!! love the share... and the bump that brought it
back up...
missed it, before... :)
thanks so much...
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Jan 25, 2017 - 12:54am PT
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Dave,
It is always, ALWAYS a pleasure to see your TRs and watch your videos. You inspire me to get creative with camera and adventures when I finally retire in a few.
Just great stuff, really.
Hey Nick many thanks and you are too kind! Go for it and get creative filming your adventures as it is a blast. Plenty more climbing film adventures (with drone where possible) lined up in 2017 for me so watch this space... :-)
Cheers
Dave
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Bald Eagle
Trad climber
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Author's Reply
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Jan 25, 2017 - 12:55am PT
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hey there say, wow!!! love the share... and the bump that brought it
back up...
missed it, before... :)
thanks so much...
Hey neebee thanks a million for the kind words as it is muchly appreciated! :-)
Cheers
Dave
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