Trip Report
Doors of Perception, North Palisade July 2012

by KBG
Saturday September 1, 2012 11:53pm
This is a 3 pitch climbinging route that ascends the large dihedral to the right of the U-Notch. The Secor book describes it in one sentence: three pitches, 5.8, chimney and crack. We climbed this route early in July of 2012. If you're more a rock climber than moutaineer this is a great alternative to the U-Notch. However, the rock is loose, but that just adds to the overall adventure of the climb.

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The route goes up the dihedral to the right of the U-Notch. Once out o...
The route goes up the dihedral to the right of the U-Notch. Once out of the dihedral, you scramble up 2-3 class angling left to avoid the snow field.
Credit: KBG
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Here is my version of the topo for those interested in climbing it.
Here is my version of the topo for those interested in climbing it.
Credit: KBG
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Dawn approach
Dawn approach
Credit: KBG
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Last bit of snow after crossing the bergschrund at the base of the U-N...
Last bit of snow after crossing the bergschrund at the base of the U-Notch.
Credit: KBG
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Looking down from the top of the 1st pitch
Looking down from the top of the 1st pitch
Credit: KBG
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Credit: KBG
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Anchor at the top of 2nd pitch
Anchor at the top of 2nd pitch
Credit: KBG
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Finishing up the 3rd pitch
Finishing up the 3rd pitch
Credit: KBG
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Looking up the 2nd-3rd class with the summit at the top
Looking up the 2nd-3rd class with the summit at the top
Credit: KBG
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Fresh snowmelt near the top
Fresh snowmelt near the top
Credit: KBG
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Summit Register!!
Summit Register!!
Credit: KBG
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KBG
About the Author
KBG is a climber from CA.

Comments
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Sep 2, 2012 - 01:35am PT
Love seeing TRs about the more random routes out there! Well, I enjoy all TRs, but especially these kinds of trips. Good job
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
  Sep 2, 2012 - 01:52am PT
Nice work. I've gazed wonderingly at the Doors many times over the years. Nice to see some up-close views!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 2, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
Very cool, that's what's it's all about!!!!
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
  Sep 4, 2012 - 12:11am PT
Nice, Pat B. said "very loose."
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Sep 4, 2012 - 01:42am PT

Thanks so much for writing a TR of that!!! I think I remember an early Ascent where ???? did a little story on that, but I could be totally wrong. Lito Tejada-Flores?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 4, 2012 - 02:54am PT
gracias
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Sep 4, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
Thanks! Cool to shake it up with lesser done stuff! I like the steep snow pics too.

Re Anchor #2: Were you packing light on the rack or was everything else too loose?
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Sep 5, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
Cool stuff !
Enthusiast

Sport climber
Port Townsend WA
  Sep 5, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
Great pics! thanks for posting
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
  Sep 5, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
The aretes on either side look pretty good too.
Sheets

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Sep 6, 2012 - 12:31am PT

Cool. I've been looking at doing this route for some time. Always wondered what it was like.

Thanks.
Stewart Johnson

Gym climber
top lake
  May 19, 2014 - 02:37pm PT
Top Notch!
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