Trip Report
Doggy Dome - Shuteye Ridge, CA - Video Journal
Monday December 17, 2012 1:49am
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Trip Report- Doggy Dome - Discovering a new wall in Southern Yosemite in the dead of the winter of 2012
visit this link to see the video diary of the day...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SC1sdey8hl0
So after memorizing the directions to Watchtower I show up with my printed version just in case. I left the coast around 4:30am.
It’s 9am. I didn’t want to get there that early (freezing!) but I did. It wasn’t too cold actually. Sweatshirt weather. I have my gear and my dog and am psyched. I start off down the obvious little dirt road and then after about 5 short minutes it all goes south.
It looks to me like maybe a logging crew went in there. Or maybe a bomb went off? The trail disappears into a confusion of trees, stumps, and debris. Trees are covered with orange marking tape, blue tape, and blue spray paint. It looks like the setting of an Axmen episode. Confused, I head off into what I think is the right direction. I keep going, tying orange surveyor’s tape into the tree branches so I can find my way back... bread crumbs through the forest. Patches of “trail” appear and disappear. At least they look like a trail. But maybe not. After jumping huge logs, crashing through seemingly endless brush, I finally get the feeling that I’m not going the right way. It shouldn't be this hard. But I'm committed. At least the wasps aren't around yet... too cold. Still snow on the ground. It's January for cryin' out loud!
I whip out my little map, use my key chain compass and line up the eastbound sunrise and keep going. Eventually I run out of surveyor’s tape. Damn. I don’t see anything but an ocean of green, trees as far as I can see, which isn’t very far. No clearings, no boulders, no crags, nada. No semblance of a trail whatsoever. The hair on my neck is bristling, the fear that I’m about to get seriously lost in a dense forest is entering into my mind. But the thought of returning to the truck and going back home at 10:15am and not getting to my “new” crag is overwhelming… sub plans, taking a day off, arranging a babysitter, my wife’s look of disgusted disbelief. I reason I’d be better off getting lost and suffer a dramatic night in the snow than return home beaten. Plus, maybe I can find a clearing and get my bearings. So I become a cairn making machine. Every 10’ I build a tower out of whatever materials I can find… sticks, pine cones, and rocks. I stack them on stumps, boulders, across snow fields. I drag my feet and create long lines in the pine duff. I use my machete and chop my way through the brushy undergrowth.
An hour later, over two hours in, I’m fully committed and for sure nowhere near where I’m supposed to be (my goal is to drop in from the top of the formation), but I don’t care. At least I’m somewhere and if I keep going I’ll run into something. Right? Probably flawed reasoning, but I’m way beyond reason at this point. My dog keeps wandering back in the direction of the truck. Even she doesn’t trust my judgment, and I have to keep calling her back.
The hill begins to rise sharply, strewn with many, many large room-sized boulders beneath the tall pine trees and deep scrub. I’m screwed. It’s a maze, and there is no way I’ll be able to navigate through it, or cut through it all, let alone leave a bread crumb trail of cairns to get myself back to the truck. It’s over. I’ve failed.
But in desperation I move on up another 150' to a snowfield I see in the distance to the right. Maybe I can get one last look before I turn around. Then, through the trees, I see a huge rock face! Something!! other than trees!! It ain’t the Watchtower but maybe it’ll be something I can stand on and figure out just how lost I am. I double my efforts and machete my way up to the base.
And then it hits me… this looks familiar. I pull out my aerial photo I took two years ago and match up the runnels and cracks... Holy crap... I’m at the base of the cliff I’ve been looking for! I was a half-mile off course, at the bottom of the crag and not the top, but I ended up right where I wanted to be. A miracle.
I hustle up the slabs. It is 11:45am. I size up the 200'cliff and drop my 30 lb pack and get busy. By the end of the day I have 5 new FAs and new objectives for the summer of 2012… Then I follow my loyal dog Sydney back to the car and decide to name the dome for her.
Doggy Dome
The End
Slater
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About the Author Slater is a trad climber from Central Coast and co-author of "California Road Trip - Climber's Guide to Northern California" and "California Central Coast Climbs: San Luis Obispo". |
Comments
limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Dec 17, 2012 - 02:57am PT
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Looks like a great day, can't beat exploring! Next time you're in a pinch for a partner around here let me know! I probably won't kill you
-Daniel
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Dec 17, 2012 - 11:08am PT
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Salter freakin' rad TR man!!!
what device you use to self-belay?
-Geyer
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Dec 17, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
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Good sh#t Slater! Cool little area indeed, thanks for the routes.
RBBC.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Dec 17, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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Great day adventure in one of the last pristine enviroments in the state. The best thing about Shuteye, thanks to the lack of guidebooks and bolts is the wonder of discovery. I live in the area, my son is a fifth generation local and so I've heard this from climber's from all continents. Not to be hurtful, but I myself jubilantly discovered your Doggie Dome and did the FA of your route Doggie Style, this was around 1990. A few years later I met another climber who laughingly congratulated me and imformed me that I was a good 10 years late as he had beat me to it. He too had ran into another climber who had informed him that he was a good ten years late! We don't let this bother us, neigh we embrace it and jokingly consider it the Jewel of Bragdom. Now twenty years later I think your's is about the eighth first ascent I've heard of going back to the mid-sixties! Welcome to the club! Twenty plus years with a handful of new routes each summer, my wife and I have a few such new old FA's in the Little Shuteye area. Around here the saying is "who doesn't?". Pretty nice of us locals as well as soooo many others to not of gridbolted and promoted for self gain, thus and ergo, leaving you to have this obviously vibrant invigorating wilderness experence. I shy up when I'm thanked for this, however it's what your supposed to do. Leave no trace. Thank you for retrieving your surveyors tape and sharing what beauty is to be found and lost here in our back yard.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Dec 17, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
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Phantom indeed. Where else have you roamed, dare I ask, in the beloved Hinterlands? As one who has long been intrigued by the climbing history of this region, along with the daunting task, or impossibility perhaps, of making sense of most of it, it would be rather interesting to make your acquaintance (if we haven't crossed paths before). Many of us have been fairly hesitant to attach an FA credit to obvious trad lines, no matter how remote, in the region. Though some specifics have been lost to memory, most notably in the case of Royal Robbins, undoubtedly many adventurous souls have passed thru the area with a strict LNT ethic.
Doggy Dome has long stood in plain site for all to see, and rumors were it had been visited. Thanks for sharing.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Dec 17, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
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Nate, it's (zee dome) been traveled before - I just didn't tell anyone ;)
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Dec 17, 2012 - 05:04pm PT
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And what was it's name before Zee?
And before that?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Dec 17, 2012 - 05:24pm PT
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Nate, I never named it - just rolling with the hinterlands theme just now. I was simply pointing out that the dome had been traveled not implying one way or the other about the runnels. Think we might have done a route or two, maybe tr'd, don't really remember other than thinking I should go back some time...Never drew a topo or anything.
So much rock but so little soft tissue...
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Dec 17, 2012 - 06:48pm PT
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Think we might have done a route or two, maybe tr'd, don't really remember
Ha, heard that before by a handful of climbers. Lost and found, and lost again indeed! :)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 17, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
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Neat location. Sounds like a superb day out.
One way of recording the history without denying the hidden past, is to use FRA for First Recorded Ascent.
I usually also use FTR for first top rope.
Those runnels look sweet.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Dec 17, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
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PFA has been used, for Possible First Ascent (sorta until further word).
I like FRA too, but sometimes it's hard to determine if it was recorded/reported before - like where and to whom. There are cases where routes were reported to Mark Spencer for instance, but he didn't know where the routes were, so didn't include them in his 1988 guide. Or they were shared, but he was told to exclude them from the guide. Other's had made topos, and then they were "lost" over the years.
Maybe it's best to just throw in the towel on getting the record straight and just let stuff fade back into obscurity... as others have done inadvertently or intentionally. That's the honest blurry history of the region.
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RyanD
climber
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Dec 17, 2012 - 09:53pm PT
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How good does that rock look! Awesome.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Author's Reply
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Dec 18, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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Cool Phantom. Doesn't rob me of a thing, that's awesome.
The other 8 face routes are way better ;) and the adventure factor was A+.
Hard to believe people would only climb that route and skip the other gems. The area is pretty much a face climbing crag though, so if they were unwilling to place a bolt it would be a short trip.
I'd love to hear your account.
Because there are a few more secrets out there that someone would notice if they'd been there...Wanna talk more?
This Just In... that was my best Mike A impersonation :)
Thanks for the beer and taking the hornet hits JRs!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 18, 2012 - 02:36am PT
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hornets!?
gah, hate those.
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Dec 18, 2012 - 03:16pm PT
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Slater, you don't sound like you've been robbed, like myself you sound like a benefactor. Also like me, a bit of a sceptic.
This twenty+ year old photo is the formation that is seen at 3:05 on your video on the horizon. The small dome is about a mile south. I've been there twice, the first time after hiking up Little Shuteye Peak from Chilkoot Lake and following the ridge down to the area in the photo, then across to the dome. The second time to climb, again approaching from the lake and gaining the ridge and staying in the open dry areas. This was in July, what I remember most was being borderline on hydration on the return. And feeling silly about our lenghty approach after hearing a motorcycle closely below us. There is a road leading to Gaggs Camp a quarter of a mile below the cliff. My wife and I took the obvious line which you call Doggie Style. There is a very steep slab to the right which you may be refering to as other secret stuff and I believe some headwalls? It's been quite a while. There are old mining prospects nearby I remember seeing.
As Nate D said this cliff is easily visible from the road. Slater, you do sound a little sceptical. Many people have been running around Shuteye for years and yaers. From my neighborhood alone you'll find in the Little Shuteye Peak register, B.Bakawa, F Bakawa, T.Gee, R. Pludo, T.Adams, R.Adams, K.Adams. Everybody at Everest Basecamp is talking!
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Dec 18, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
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Fred Beckey has climbed all formations out there anyways....meh!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Dec 18, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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Cool pic of what has been recently called The Watchtower, Phantom. Did you climb on it as well?
Keep digging thru those pics and scan a few more for us!
Ever climb/TR stuff around Chilkoot?
Your wife's paintings are nice, BTW.
And indeed, Tiki! Fred makes skeptics of us all!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Author's Reply
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Dec 18, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
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Cool!
Phanton, keep going, more pics and more stories!
No, face was obvious, not secret.
I just don't consider the OW the best line, but maybe the worst line there (although yes, most obvious), so I was wondering what else you saw or climbed.
Yes, many re-climbed routes due to the hush hush nature and lack of guidebook. I've heard of many episodes already, so not surprised at all.
Mining prospects, I knew it, I ran across a cut in the hillside, with tailings (or what I thought might be) and tons of logging out there.
Not really pristine (at least along the approach). My tape was the least intrusive thing out there. Spray paint galore all over trees (maybe to be logged?) and motor-cycles nearby. I think the approach I found cuts about 15 minutes of hard up-hill hiking out of the equation, if approached from below, but very x-country.
Thanks for posting! If you can manage to get the first first ascent ;) info it'd be great!!
Do you really think it was climbed in the mid-60s before Robbins et. all?
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Dec 18, 2012 - 07:18pm PT
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Yup! Miwoks and the Pine Sap Tap for added friction.
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Ol' Skool
Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Dec 18, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
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Thanks for the report, Tom- but I'll always admire your willingness to commute over your willingness to bushwhack!
You da' man.
Bruce
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Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
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Dec 19, 2012 - 01:29am PT
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Slater, How about pristine/toxic? It borders here and quickly becomes pristine. Sorry but I can't even remember any off width. Some sloping mantles? I sorta remember belaying on a sloping ledge. I was working graveyard (Phantom X) in Madera , hiked out on my day off with my wife, 10 year old son, two dogs and a rack of stoppers and hex's. Mostly I remember that it was sweat drippin hot, the belay ledge was a hot plate. It caught us unprepared. There is a stretch of no shade to return to the ridge where my son finished the last of the water and I worried as we all were getting loopy. Now that I think about it, it wasn't really a hap hap happy day. I hope your happy now!
Nate D - Didn't climb the Watchtower. We were just out hiking to the peak and got a little curious. It looked beyond my ability. I don't own a bolt kit and at the time this appeared to be a job for men with lycra.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Author's Reply
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Dec 19, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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YES... you brought your dogs!
Glad to hear that in the history of visitation...
And the Doggy name lives on!!!
I'm telling you, that dome is a dog magnet.
There is a perfect cave for them dogs to chill out in, when it gets hot.
Or good for JRs and crew ! ;)
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Author's Reply
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Dec 19, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
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This Justin 's mutt...
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Dec 20, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Haha, dude that is my dog.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Dec 20, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
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Nice TR. I liked climbing in Southern Yosemite. I like the plastic shaped rock and faces that looked like vertical mud that were very cool and solid granite. Cool.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Dec 21, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
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RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRUUUUUUUUUUFFFFFFFFFFFFF!
Thanks!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 21, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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Cool Slater.
Dig the old school park pass.
The rock looks really nice.
Our spot is called the Dog Park, so I'm down.
Question- wouldn't your dog find the right way if you were off route on the hike out?
You guys are lucky out there. I'd sure like to visit.
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Dec 22, 2012 - 09:19am PT
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Bump!
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