Trip Report
Devil's Tower, The Extended Weissner, 5.8, solo
Thursday July 21, 2011 12:40am
The Weissner route climbed in 1937 by Fritz Weissner, William House and Lawerence Coveny was the first modern climb on the tower. The previous ascents had been by the Ripley & Rogers family via the Stakeladder in 1893 in a feat of Cowboy can do inginuity in 1891.

I hadn't climbed the tower in five years since I climbed it with my then 16 yr old daughter Natalie and my two brother Charlie and Barry.

I had a day and was ensconced in a cabin some ten miles away. The Weissner seemed like a good way to go. As the Tower's own Dingus Mcgee is fond of quoting Heraclitus, "you can never cross the same river twice" Over the years we've adapted this to climbing. "You can never climb the same climb twice. This was to be no exception. In the last thirty odd years I'd climbed the Wiessner and all it's variations. But they all mix in my memory and though it was familiar I ended up climbing the Extended weissner as a fresh experience with a feeling of dejavu, though I wasn't sure exactly which route I was on until I checked it out in the guidebook afterwards.

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Route follows the right side of the staggered broken columns to the ri...
Route follows the right side of the staggered broken columns to the right of the obvious "leaning Column" of the Durrance route just right of center, then straight up to easier terrain of the meadows.
Credit: Jaybro
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It had been over a hundred the day before, so an early start to beat the sun, if not the heat seemd essential
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Credit: Jaybro
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According to acuweather, predawn twilight was at 4:57
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Credit: Jaybro
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no headlamp needed
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Credit: Jaybro
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Credit: Jaybro
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Diversion around two parties (5 climbers) recoiling the rope, not finding the route, and then two pitches of 5.8 hands to Wyde and the rising sun was around the corner.
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Credit: Jaybro
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on to the meadows
then a short 4th class scramble to the summit
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Credit: Jaybro
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Credit: Jaybro
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Somehow I missed the background on the summit shot
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there's the Missouri Buttes and Frank's house
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Credit: Jaybro
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On down the Bon Homme Rappell, where, at 7:30 there were people coming up
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Credit: Jaybro
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Note "careful avoidence of painful Crack technique"*
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Credit: Jaybro
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Turns out these guys were new to the tower, on a roadtrip as part of a larger group, from Iowa. One guy told me this was is his first trip outside, first time crack climbing and first multipitch. For all that, they went pretty steadily. And the clouds were out so I watched and took pictures.
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Credit: Jaybro
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Note, you can get down the Bonhomme Rappell and the Standard Meadows rap (pr so I'm told) on a single 70 meter rope.
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Credit: Jaybro
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Rte goes up right of the center of photo to lower angeld area ("The Meadows") then scrambles up tp the right.

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Credit: Jaybro
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East face showing 'The Window' in the center
My 93rd ascent and probable last solo of the tower.



* John Gill



  Trip Report Views: 6,310
Jaybro
About the Author
Jaybro is a social climber from Wolf City, Wyoming.

Comments
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Jul 21, 2011 - 12:42am PT
Way cool !
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
  Jul 21, 2011 - 02:14am PT
Thanks! Some day I must go there and climb it, perhaps combined with a visit to the Needles. Not sure about that Veedawhosits place, though.

My relatives' - hey, they're named Anderson - last visit to DeTo (not to be confused with detox.) http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/231590/A-Deto-first-time
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
  Jul 21, 2011 - 12:53am PT
Radbro!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jul 21, 2011 - 01:09am PT
What! No rope??
The Larry

climber
  Jul 21, 2011 - 01:15am PT
Awesome Jay, Looks like a fun day.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Jul 21, 2011 - 01:18am PT

Neat stuff, Jaybro.
Lookin' towards Lucille fest!@!!!!
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Jul 21, 2011 - 01:19am PT
Good work, nice story & photos.

Dude!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jul 21, 2011 - 01:56am PT
Awesome. Wiesner is no piece cake and it was probably 100+ that day as well. A buddy of mine and I climbed the west face on a 105+ day and it was really nice. You just have to start by 5am so you can get down by 2pm because there may not be too many places around that are hotter than the west face on a hot day once the sun comes around. You, Dingus and Freddy impressed me with your devotion to shade. Nice job Jay. How much longer are you hanging around? Heading to rushmore for the weekend.
O.D.

Trad climber
LA LA Land
  Jul 21, 2011 - 02:11am PT
Beautiful climbing style, excellent prose & photos. Well done!
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Jul 21, 2011 - 02:14am PT
Go Jay! (anything on the mules?)
Dick_Lugar

Trad climber
Casper the Friendly Ghost Town!
  Jul 21, 2011 - 02:55am PT
Sweet Jaybro! Youy "one-upped" Fritz who used what, one piton on the first pitch??
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Jul 21, 2011 - 02:56am PT
D Tower rules. Thanks, Jay.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
  Jul 21, 2011 - 09:07am PT
nicely
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Jul 21, 2011 - 09:40am PT
Thanks for the TR. Hey, I just noticed that the browser tab reads "Add Customer Comment". So, that's a real good TR for free, keep up the good work.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 21, 2011 - 09:42am PT
Excellent !

Thanks for taking us along. I can't believe I still haven't been to that place.
Prod

Trad climber
  Jul 21, 2011 - 09:48am PT
Nice.
fosburg

climber
  Jul 21, 2011 - 09:55am PT
Nice Jay! How is that route as a solo? Was the one 60 meter rope sufficient? I've climbed many routes at Devil's Tower but never topped out.
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
  Jul 21, 2011 - 09:57am PT
93 ascents? Wow! Nice TR, SoloBro!

Just curious: What is the "*J. Gill" notation at the end?

Still haven't been to Mato Tipila...
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
  Jul 21, 2011 - 10:40am PT
Bitchin.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 21, 2011 - 10:49am PT
Lovely outing!

Thanks for the share! Did you bring along a babyhead just for good measure?!?
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
  Jul 21, 2011 - 10:49am PT
Nice Jay. Weissner was my first tower climb and my first multi-pitch climb ever. Was a rank beginner at the time. Climbed it with Layne Kopischka. I still remember Fritz's lone lost arrow in a horizontal crack about half way up.

Climbing on the south face in July is pretty hard core!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
  Jul 21, 2011 - 10:57am PT
Good stuff Jay!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jul 21, 2011 - 10:58am PT
Hence the early start Mike, no direct sun until the meadows. It's a ring pin and it's still there!
See you @ 4 stories.

Where Fritz had rope soles, I had Gandas

i had a 70, Kevin.

I quoted him in a photo caption, Erik.

Thanks all.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jul 21, 2011 - 11:03am PT
Daredevil's Tower is more like it!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Jul 21, 2011 - 11:15am PT
Yeah jaybro! I remember the live TR but this one has pictures and I thank you for both. Keep it up Jay.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jul 21, 2011 - 11:38am PT
thanks for the dispatch from the frontier Jaybro!
and all the subtle reminders of our increasing experience.

hope to catch up with you sometime soon!

spyork

Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
  Jul 21, 2011 - 11:51am PT
Thanks for the TR Jay. Did Gary get up there to climb with ya?

Steve
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Jul 21, 2011 - 11:53am PT
Love it. This is why we climb, for mornings like these.
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
  Jul 21, 2011 - 12:52pm PT
Refreshing TR...

Another reminder that our happiest moments climbing are done for adventure and fun (rather than competitive glory or self-vindication)
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 21, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
Thanks JayBro!
nice pics and comentary!!!!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Jul 21, 2011 - 01:29pm PT
Way to pull that 4am crux. I shiver at the thought of it. :) Thanks for sharing
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
  Jul 21, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
Good job!!! Sounds like a very nice morning... soloing must be a very free feeling.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Jul 21, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
What a nice day.

Thanks for letting us in on it.
seneca

climber
jamais, jamais pays
  Jul 21, 2011 - 02:37pm PT
OK, don't you think you've had enough fun for now?!!!
Cheers and keep sending, it warms an old guys heart.
Bob
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Mar 15, 2012 - 01:12am PT
Jaybro nice write up and I have still yet to actually lead this one. Need to soon or I am afraid it will start to not seem fun.
Floridaputz

Trad climber
Oakland Park Florida
  Mar 18, 2012 - 07:57pm PT
That's living
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Mar 18, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
I hope that you carried a babyhead, just in case.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Mar 19, 2012 - 01:12am PT
Nice work. Great adventure. Thanks man.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 19, 2012 - 02:55am PT
this is one of those ones that I would like to do when I go back.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
  Mar 19, 2012 - 03:17am PT
Great report!

Is Frank the guy who runs the B&B+guiding service just north of the Tower? If so, then I met him on the summit last year. 'twas a pleasure!

Didn't those Iowans see the climbing info sign at the parking lot about "hand wedging"? j/k Although I did wonder if that term is a regional or a historical one, since I had never heard of it before.

klk

Trad climber
cali
  Mar 19, 2012 - 03:22am PT
Missed this last year. Really happy to find it now.

Tx
Frank Sanders

Trad climber
Devils Tower. Wyoming
  Mar 19, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
Oh Jay, Don't know how I missed this post !! Just saw it for the first time, right now !!! Very cool !! It strikingly brought back some very visceral memories.....

....Extended Weissner was my first free-solo on this Tower. It was 1979, and I was living with Denise, in the trailer, out of town, by the coal mine. (Oh, Sooo "Gillette", in the 70's). Armed with those Amazing EB shoes, I'd convinced myself that the lower pitch was ALL solid hand jams, with a Pleasant stemming rest in the middle, and that the Feature Pitch was ALL solid body jams. My crux would be the step-across, into the WIDE.....All went smoothly & Surreally; believe that Fritz's Spirit was with me on the Wide. That morning, The Mind played ONLY images of fat, solid hand jams, solid off-width and strong updrafts. Towed 2 ropes with me for the raps. Somehow, even today, I imagine that I can still see That View, from the Tower Top, and feel that Totally New Perspective on Life. Rapped down & free-soloed Durrance, quite solidly & Happily. Rapped again, and only by that time had other climbers appeared. Hooked up with Todd & Smeds, I believe, and took a top-rope on Walt Bailey,....and promptly fell off.

Although several decades have passed, my brain is still Smiling.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Mar 19, 2012 - 01:36pm PT
ha Ha, good to see you here, Frank! Glad you liked it.
Oh man, that Is so Gillette, in those days. i remember sleeping in the basement of the Micro Ghetto, those same days...

I didn't feel secure on any of that, and kept dble checking and over jamming.

See you this summer!
Zander

climber
  Mar 19, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
Hey hey, Nice Jaybro,
Somehow missed this the first time around.
Cheers
Zeebro
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Mar 19, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
Thanks for the inspiration JayBro!

Nice effort.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Dec 8, 2014 - 09:58pm PT
Finally got a lead in on this beast this fall. It is super old school and therefore feels harder than most things at its grade. My rack suggestion is two sixes, 3 fives, 3 fours, and a two.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Dec 8, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
nice Tower bump
cowpoke

climber
  Dec 9, 2014 - 04:28am PT
This little report kicks ass. I'm out of the loop and not looking hard enough, but sure wish there was more of this simple inspiration being posted. Jaybro, you rock.
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Dec 9, 2014 - 06:14am PT
Well that blows your chance for a Clif Bar sponsorship
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Dec 9, 2014 - 06:18am PT
Sweetness bump. Nice stuff Jaybro!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Dec 9, 2014 - 07:16am PT
Nice Jay...missed this first time around. I've only been there twice, once in 76 with Steve Wunsch and again ten years ago with my wife. The rangers were annoying in 76 but no problem since....need to get back there!
roadkillphil

Trad climber
Colorado
  Dec 10, 2014 - 08:30am PT
Nice, Jay. Been trying to pm you some old photos but not going through and all I get is a black image when I try here. Here's one that worked, though...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Dec 11, 2014 - 06:46am PT
Woo hoo, Phil! Hmm downward view of wide world...

Or text my phone, same number we have talked on before, I think...
WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
  Jan 19, 2016 - 04:52pm PT
Thinking I haven't climbed the tower yet in 2016.

nom nom nom
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jan 19, 2016 - 05:07pm PT
No time like the present, weather allowing......

WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
  Jan 19, 2016 - 05:17pm PT
Nice pic!

I don't have a winter trip up it yet.
I'll wait for a nice high pressure system with sunny calm days and mid 40s when I do though!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Jan 19, 2016 - 11:06pm PT
Wait for temps in the 60's happens more than you think.
Go