Trip Report
Desert Splits
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Tuesday April 14, 2015 7:20am
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Got away for a quicky this weekend with my buddy Joey who's made an appearance in my previous Desert Shield tr. This was my 3rd trip to the dez in 3 weeks so I was finally able to put down a little crack project I've tried before, and also check out a tower I've wanted to do for a little bit. All pics with captions and no further text necessary. Have a good one!
Photo by Joey.
Grippa
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About the Author
Grippa is a wannabe living in Salt Lake City, UT. |
Comments
Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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Apr 14, 2015 - 07:30am PT
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Beeeeautiful! Like your shout out to Powell.
Rich Jones
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 14, 2015 - 07:53am PT
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He was also an undercover spy. Interesting work for one armed guy.
Cool climbing
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Apr 14, 2015 - 09:56am PT
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That summy shot of yours is just oozing stoke and desert goodness. Thanks for sharing.
Scott
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Apr 14, 2015 - 10:00am PT
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Looks like Maverick at top.
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Apr 14, 2015 - 10:09am PT
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Used to be a spike on that summit you could use for lower/downclimb. I guess now its gone and you just downclimb? We only put one person at a time up there anyway.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Author's Reply
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Apr 14, 2015 - 11:31am PT
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ddriver it's pretty easy to just flip the line around the lookers right side of the top as seen in the photo and down climb on tr.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 14, 2015 - 12:26pm PT
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Nice! Thank you for sharing this.
John
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Apr 14, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
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Yeah buddy!
The Life Nest - a valuable addition to this game's nomenclature. Just saying it aloud to myself makes me feel good.
Only gripe about the TR: 0 stars out of 5 in the spray category, Grippa! What was the project? It ain't spray if we can't look at it on mp.com and imagine doing it ourselves, or trying at least. It sure looks hard enough.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Apr 14, 2015 - 01:22pm PT
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TFPU! Nothing like spring in the desert.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Author's Reply
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Apr 14, 2015 - 02:00pm PT
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le_bruce! as requested I'll spray...
The project was a little ditty named "Miss Kitty like it that way" 5.11+ at the Maverick buttress in longs canyon. Mav is by far an unsung glory wall 20 min outside of Moab. yet to be over run by the creek crowd which is a blessing.
Lighthouse tower was f*#king awesome. P1 sported some good old fashion head first diving into a squeeze. P2 had some of the same, and a bitching stem box into glorious 10a jugs protected with finger sized cams. P3 had the pucker factor in spades as it starts out with a 20ft leftward traverse off the belay to a bolt then a 25 ft slab with a 4x4x1" loose flake on the left, and a 3x4ft loose block on the right (choose your own adventure!) with no gear aside from the single bolt below you. It was interesting watching the line sway in the wind with the bolt out of view, and my hands pawing around for anything that wasn't loose. The P4 sports "R" mantle onto the summit block. I feel like it's not really R, but more like PG13 due to the nesting potential :)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 14, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
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Nice Greg! Them splitters look real fun. Great to hear you're out getting some bud.
C u at COR
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 14, 2015 - 02:24pm PT
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Hey, thanks. Good to see you're havin' a great spring.Third trip to the desert in three weeks...good on you!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Apr 15, 2015 - 02:47am PT
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Nice one Grippa! I'll have to check out your Desert Shield report. I remember monkey calling back and forth with you when we pushed it while you were coming down from Spaceshot.
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