I met Dane in Salt Lake City and we drove right to Indian Creek where we met up with a few Canadians he had met in City of Rocks, ID named Steve and Brad. We quickly found that I was not in shape and Danes hands were never going to heal from the thrashing they received in Idaho.
The mean machine
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
We set all the gear at the base of the climb so that everyone could pull what they needed it was quite the sight.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Then Steve got on Supercrack for his first time and cruised it.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
We proceeded to climb the rest of the day away and I didn't really take to many more pictures. I needed all the strength in my arms to haul me up Generic Crack, Gorilla, Chocolate Corner and a few other random routes.
After two days in Indian we decided to head over to Moab for a few days of climbing some possible face routes and letting our baby crack hands rest. We headed right to Wall Street to attempt the Kings Hand which was above the Jaycee campground.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
The route in the guidebook lists a 4 pitch route at about 5.10 on the hardest sections. We figured it would be to bad. We arrived at the climb in the midday sun and I proceeded up the climb. It went well for about 30 feet although completely unprotected before instantly turning into exploding chalk dust. I got a little nervous taking holds from the rock so I decided to downclimb and all the footholds decided to pick that time to dust up as well. It looked so intensly easy but here I was getting really nervous. Dane decided to take a turn on it after I had finished and he figured bearfoot was the way to go for better grip. Turns out that really does help until your feet sweat then the downclimb is even worst. Dane got about 10ft higher then I did before deciding we would go do something enjoyable.
Here is Dane downclimbing unprotected bearfoot.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
And here we are preparing to leave.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Did we miss something or is this route really not that good?
We proceeded down to Wall Street and climbed some fun routes, including hand cracks which tore our hands up more but we got to meet some good people. Those people would be joining us for the next 3 days of great climbing. That next morning we decided to do the Arches tour and climb Owl Rock as a bit of a consolation to visiting the park.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Plus an obligatory summit shot with Dane giving everyone a through the lens stinkeye.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Plus something I am going to call the JB shot.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Dane on the return
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
The next day we headed to do Ancient Art for my third time but I was the only one in the group who had been on it before. There was a line due to a bit of a later start after a stop at the Red Cliffs Lodge for a restroom and coffee break. So instead of spending all our time sitting we hopped on the Cobra. Here is Huck giving it a send,
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
And some parties on Ancient Art.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Huck throwing over the top.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
I took some photos afterward of Dane on the climb but they really were just not that good.
Until he wedged himself in the second pitch of Stolen Chimney.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
And the second party followed afterward.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
The second crux of the route is on a thin face with some great exposure.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Dane says "Lets do this thing."
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
And gets after it. (Pate I do have some pano's of this later I'll be putting up.)
[imghttp://www.kelseygrayphotography.com/North-America/USA/utah2010/IMG2531-2/1043815929_5VAsE-L.jpg{{/img}}
Dane has conquered the beast.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Huck was the next to come across as Justin waited patiently.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Let me know if you have seen this before. THis crazy man Huck did a handstand on the summit and held it for a few seconds! (Some ps work needed on the rope but figured I would show it anyway.)
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
We had some parking lot shenanigans afterward while the sun set.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
THe next day we continued the whirlwind tour and headed to the North Chimney Route on Castleton Tower. I was feeling the exhaustion from not climbing after the injury and then climbing for 7 days straight and the 5.8+ first pitch was kicking my butt. Here Justin Loyka Follows.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
And gives his best "Happy to be here" face.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Dane concentrates on the 5.9 OW crux of the route.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Success brings us to the final pitch and stem as it meets with the Kor/Ingalls
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Huck follows after.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Dane sketches in the logbook.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Looking over the edge.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
The crew with lots of gear. To be honest I used most of it.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Dane takes one last look at Castleton.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
After all that climbing in cracks Danes hands had developed some open sores that just were not healing. So we decided to take a few days and climb some sport just to let it heal up a bit. We headed off to Maple Canyon in the middle of the night and headed to the cobbles. We went to the Schoolroom first and I struggled on every climb that morning. I had been sick since I showed up and it didn't seem to be relenting. Something kicked in that morning and decided to add a huge weight to my arms and legs as I struggled up everything from a 5.7 to 5.10. Justin and Dane were doing great however, here is Justin on a 5.7
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
I am just not sure I would climb this rock if it were anywhere else.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Dane cruising
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
We left the Schoolroom to find something more overhanging to really get a feel of the area and ended up in the Pipeline.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
It was beautiful in the area with the maple leaves all turning color.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
The next day we were off to Engagement Alcove to spend some time in the sun.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
After that it was off to Box Canyon for a few climbs. That night it was off to a new area as we were anxious to get back to Indian Creek. But first we had this little matter of it being someones birthday. Although we had just met Justin a week or so before in Moab as he was looking for partners we had learned it was his birthday the next day. We learned this by him announcing it over and over again. Dane and I begun to make plans. In a great store in Ephraim called Kents we picked up a cake. If you are in Maple and need food definitely go there! Super cheap eats. We drove late into the night and slept in Moab. That morning we headed to The Love Muffin and ran into our old friend Huck! So we added another person to our party once again and headed to Mexican Hat. It looked like a fun little climb and Justin was really into it. Within a few hours we were looking at the Banditos Route, a super easy 5 bolt ladder that goes to the top. Shorter then we had all expected but neat anyway. I lead off on the good bolts and occasionaly ran into a loose button head. Still I was at the top in no time.
Justin Followed
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Now that Justin was at the top Dane and I continued our plans. We had brought the cake up from the parking lot in my camera bag. Now it was time to finish drawing on it in red frosting. Dane drew a The Mexican Hat (that his girlfriend later asked if it was a nuclear bomb exploding) and then drew on Justins name.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
If you look closely at the last photo you man notice that Justin is spelled Justn. Dane wrote his name sat back and said "Oh Crap" then we both had a great laugh and it was decided it would stay as that. No fixing it now!
I went back up and Huck followed After.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Dane being the last after I hauled the cake in the bag up. Justin was still clueless.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
I then aptly distracted Justin by telling him to take photos of me on the summit so that Dane could put 24 candles in the cake.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
As I was coming back up Justin looked at Huck and said "Wheres my cake?" "Screw you guys I don't really like cake anyway." It was funny because we knew he was being totally sarcastic but would eat his own words momentarily. Dane walked up and said Happy Birthday and Justin had a huge surprise saying. "Seriously?!"
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
My Trango nut tool with a knife came in handy. I love that thing.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
We ate almost the entire thing.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
then headed back down.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
A good day on the Hat for sure.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Then it was back to Indian Creek. Goodbye Mexican Hat!
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
As we arrived back in Indian Creek we headed back to our camp ground area. I was trying to meet up with donini but the Mexican Hat had distracted us for a day longer then expected and so we arrived late. Maybe next time! As it was we hopped on some great climbs the first being No Name Crack which I felt great on. My last climb of the day was an ascent on Incredible Hand Crack. Although it was toprope I was excited to climb it without falling. Speaking of Fall.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Also during the day our friend Huck got to do his first trad lead ever. We put him on the easy but enjoyable Twin Cracks.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Which he cruised without much issue!
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Can you take bad pictures at Indian Creek?
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Now its going to get really weird. We headed to Zion for a day. Yes just one day. We had in fact planned to go and do something larger but we were running out of time fast. We had only 2 days left and were preparing for a large wall. It just wasn't feeling right and Dane had never done anything of that type before. So instead we picked back up Justin who wasn't expecting to see us again for a few days and decided to head to Red Rocks just for the heck of it in the middle of the night. Dane and I both agreed to come down and spend a few weeks in both Indian Creek and then Zion. We talked about some walls and gathered a few plans. Next time, we agreed, we would have the equipment necessary to do the wall whether it be gear or mind.
So we arrived at around 2am in Red Rocks to a completely full campground. We slept on the side of the road in a wash after a while of searching for a good spot. It seemed to work well and we were awake and gone before anyone was around to find us.
We climbed at the Black Corridor for the day in what was more like a gym then any climbing I think I have ever done. The routes are fun but the scene was insane. Not really what I left Zion for so we agreed to spend our last day on a more remote classic. That next day we opted for Triassic Sands, although the weather said it was going to be thunder and lightning mid afternoon we didn't get going until about noon. Thankfully the weather held out for us. We found some friends along the way.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Then we got to the heart of the matter.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
There was a team above us that was already coming down when we arrived and they had left a cam on the first pitch in the crux section because it walked. On my way by following Dane I cleaned it for them and tossed it down which took up some more time but they were nice guys so it was well appreciated all around.
I led the second pitch which is one of the more enjoyable 5.8's I have ever done and Dane followed.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Then he belayed Justin and we gathered for the final pitch.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
mmm rope management...
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Then it was time to go.
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
I was in bliss on the route I loved it! in fact it was one of my favorite of the trip. The next pitch was just as great!
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
We rapped and I climbed the first pitch of the bolted route to the left which was also really fun!
The view from Triassic Sands
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
Then we gathered all the gear and gave what we couldn't use to Justin and headed off to SLC the next night. I was off to Seattle and Dane was off to Portland...
Visit on kelseygrayphotography.com
More to come....
Trip Photo:
 |
 |
|
 Credit: Prezwoodz |
||
 |
 |
