Trip Report
Dancing with the Devil
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Tuesday August 7, 2018 8:31am
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Myles Moser
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About the Author
Myles Moser is a climber from Lone Pine, Ca. |
Comments
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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a very short, and concise TR indeed!
Thanks for taking me places I'd love to go!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Wow, so who’s going to be the first person to do this climb and then ski the couloir?
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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THAT is quite a line. Cheers, sir.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Weird limestone? Dolomite?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Yes, quite a line. Razor sharp.
Made me think of these words: "I watched a snail crawl along the edge of a straight razor. This is my dream; this is my nightmare. Crawling, slithering, along the edge of a straight razor, and surviving."
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aldude posed my question.
My other is how did this go unclaimed?
Was the direct start out of the question?
Proud, as is all yer werk!
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Wild rock. The "lightning" bolt dike across the face is interesting.
That's a lot of thin pins.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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helluva nice line, mm
who led, you or the devil?
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Jim Clipper
climber
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3rd photo from pitch 10? I thought 5 looked aerie, but if it's 10, I think I'd be seeing the falcons launching much lower, IF I ever got there.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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real-deal alpine thin-pin free newroute bump. this is the good shit as Kiké loved to say
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Titanium pins?
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Aug 11, 2018 - 03:55pm PT
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WWII pitons from the tenth mountain division. It was very Intense up there. The direct start was a no go. More choss than we wanted to deal with! It took us 2 days over two different trips. Rock was excellent, to mediocre to great to terrible to horrible to horrific to horrendous! Beautiful location. A climb everyone has seen.
I've wanted to climb it for at least ten years. It was killer Epic Adventure .. Find the pins and stay on route! Hard hats a must!
I'll try to upload more photos
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Aug 11, 2018 - 04:04pm PT
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Your route description is like TR Haiku.
That rock looks downright unreliable. Nice job!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Aug 11, 2018 - 04:09pm PT
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Wow! Yes, more photos please.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Aug 11, 2018 - 04:46pm PT
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Yeah...soft iron and leave them fixed. We used them on the White Fang*
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Aug 11, 2018 - 06:01pm PT
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The softies were the only ones that were reliable. A couple of times I placed a few pins straight into the stone. No crack...just pound as hard as I could. We had these old czech ice pitons that we cut and ground that could hammer right into the soft rock.
White fang sounds really cool Aldude
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Aug 11, 2018 - 06:00pm PT
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Now that's some good lookin' rock!
Bad Hombres!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Aug 11, 2018 - 06:05pm PT
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Aug 11, 2018 - 06:26pm PT
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Looks cool Myles! The rock resembles part of the same band of marble as the Fang...no real cracks...more like seams and folds. Chrome moly pins would just shatter the limestone. Bolt free?
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Aug 11, 2018 - 07:21pm PT
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Oh god no. We did one pin one bolt at each anchor. A few of the pitches required bolts but the majority of the climb pins were a far safer option. The softies were exploding the wall constantly. The few arrows we drove were so long that we excepted them as good
Over all very hollow and crazy setting
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Aug 11, 2018 - 10:20pm PT
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Very cool. Congratulations!
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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Aug 11, 2018 - 10:27pm PT
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Strong work gentleman.
Would give anything for a tape of the MM color commentary on that one.
Berg heil
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 11, 2018 - 10:53pm PT
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aldude asked, but I didn't see the answer. What kind of rock is that? The bright pale suf.
"Beautiful Line" doesn't do it justice.
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Wildincognito
climber
Eastside
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Aug 11, 2018 - 11:24pm PT
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who led, you or the devil?
Great name- one hell of a lead!
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Myles Moser
climber
Lone Pine, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Aug 12, 2018 - 08:03am PT
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"Lower half is pretty much all marble. Upper ridge has a mix of hornfels and quartzite thrown in and the really shitty stuff on the last pitch was mostly schist I think. "
This is what Richies conclusion was... our local geologist
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Amy Ness
climber
ND
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Aug 14, 2018 - 05:50pm PT
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sprayers gonna spray
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 15, 2018 - 10:50am PT
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^
watsup wid that?
So . . .as much as the description of the rock quality & consistency is familiar . . .
can't find THAT in New Jersey
(h*ly sh8! there is a "Thumbs Up" Like icon at the top of the margin?!)
Oh! Mrs Moser,(Amy Ness)
glad you followed that up;
or I mighta'/woulda spray'd on your parade, I missed the sarcasm.
hey, well I dont face plant,
but as I didn't say it
theres something wrong with your man, in gallons not cups.
Its good, a long cool drink
Thanks (theres only 1 like, snikker, )I kid, Thattherezz badaz'D
is this in the same zone?
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Amy Ness
climber
ND
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Aug 14, 2018 - 06:22pm PT
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He’s my husband...I’m allows to tease him:)
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Aug 14, 2018 - 06:47pm PT
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Is this that white thing up by Mt. Morrison?
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Wildincognito
climber
Eastside
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Aug 15, 2018 - 01:00am PT
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A.N.
Aug 14, 2018 - 05:50pm PT
sprayers gonna spray
wish you were (t)here
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Lennox
climber
in the land of the blind
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Aug 15, 2018 - 08:27am PT
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Is this that white thing up by Mt. Morrison?
No, that is the White Fang that aldude is talking about.
This route is on Checkered Demon which sits between Mt. Humphreys and Emerson.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Aug 15, 2018 - 08:28am PT
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It’s the white thing by checked demon
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limpingcrab
Gym climber
Minkler, CA
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Aug 15, 2018 - 09:10am PT
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Marble scares me, you guys are nuts.
Sweet lookin' line!
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