Trip Report
Crest Jewel, Shining Brightly
Tuesday August 1, 2017 11:35am
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Truly a gem – a 10 pitch face climb up the side of North Dome. Since Betsy and I were staying on the east side we choose to hike in from Hwy 120 at Porcupine Flats, a well signed and heavily traveled 5 mile trail to North Dome. Well, not heavily traveled before dawn. We know Crest Jewel is now typically done with a linkup with Royal Arches but perhaps not mid-summer - not us anyway.
We ate a breakfast croissant near the top of North Dome, then dropped down the gully on the unfortunate start of a 1.5 hour bushwack. The trail down is OK, but we veered off toward the dome too soon – twice. Now we know – you really drop down to what is perceived as far below the dome before you cut over. Now after that hot brutal start and with most of our water cached at the top, it was time to ration water to small sips for the climb.
The climb is awesome and morning is key as the rock just started to feel hot as we got off the top. The views are tremendous and the rock is near perfect. We did after a while realize that it is best to view the bolts as somewhere in the vicinity of the route and not necessarily right on route (or at least the route we wanted to take..) It wasn’t uncommon to step over to clip, then climb or even downclimb back to your line.
As noted elsewhere it is bolted per the grade: pretty well bolted on the 5.10 bits, kind of runout on the 5.8 sections and the relatively easy 5.6/5.7 dike pitch had but one bolt.
Lunch and three liters of water waited for us at the top and how sweet it was, then a relatively easy but mainly uphill walk out to hwy 120.
Ney Grant
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About the Author Ney is a trad climber from Pollock Pines. |
Comments
Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Oh, how I love this climb. I think the best way to climb it as you did it--hike in from Tioga Rd. I've done it seven times, which should tell you something.
Thanks!
BAd
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Love the CJ and that hot spring, good living there Ney....hope to see you two sooner than later. TM the weekend after this one?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Thx for the reminder to get back on this.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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That route looks just amazing! A route with a view
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Looks amazing....
Thanks for posting.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Thanks for the report! I have good memories of that climb on a June day about 12 years ago: a fast simul up RA, a hot wander across slabs to reach the start of CJ, a few big sliders at the end of P1-2 linkup, a lot more great climbing taking it one step at a time when I had no slab experience, getting back down to the top of Washington Column a few hours before dark, then hopelessly screwing up the NDG descent, a teeth-chattering shiver bivy somewhere to the east up high, and wandering into the Awahnee for a brunch buffet the next day in a surreal shift of reality from hot starving thirst to gluttonous sensory overload.
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L
climber
Just livin' the dream
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Beautiful!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Really nice photos, thanks!
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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. The trail down is OK, but we veered off toward the dome too soon – twice. Now we know – you really drop down to what is perceived as far below the dome before you cut over. Now after that hot brutal start
Yea, that is exactly what I did the first time back in the early 90's or so. I guess the false trails that veer off too soon are still there.
Now if, instead of coming in from 120, you climb Royal Arches first, it is a straight clean shot to the start, just saying...
Nice trip report.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Hey, Nay, (hint, you don't gn me) . . thanks for sharing.
And I tell my kids; keep your head down, nose to the grind-stone and maybe if you're luck is gud you'll end up Nay!
Granite I'd doubt there'll ever be Two
Twixt No-sun & sunrise, they stretch, and set out for thier target.
As the bone searing orb arrives on high
the heroes path breaks
, and they head off slightly higher than the best chosen route.
Still in steam haze,
they climb, and are rewarded with a gaze
That is a favorite of the choices
Of this choir -
(boiye) this was great.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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You two seem to be living the good life - thanks for sharing.
I'm the most basic, one-dimensional climber in that I love cracks above everything else to a fanatic unhealthy degree, but I don't remember missing them on the CJ. The views, position, movement, quiet - and the quality of that granite, oh my.
We had the Dome to ourselves, and toward the top I was feeing a body-and-mind high, pleasant drunken giddy feeling. Kind of crept up on me like a tide as we moved up the pitches.
A few quiet + uninterrupted hours on that clean plane of granite, w fingertips and eyes just drinking in the perfection on every breath... Definitely a route that puts you in a unique zone.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, ney... really neat share!! thanks so very much!!!
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Crest Jewel follows a series of unique but hard to see features. Photo: Chris McNamara
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