Trip Report
Cosumnes River Moss

by Highgloss
Monday February 22, 2016 6:26pm
This is a cool route but it is really dirty at spots and a little wet. Had to down climb to get to the last rap anchor with a 70m. Probably would not repeat in spring again. Probably much more fun after a dry summer. Found a biner in the mud on the second pitch. Trout Fishing 5.11 traverse looks awesome, will return to try that route in summer.

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Pitch 1 5.7 Moss
Pitch 1 5.7 Moss
Credit: Highgloss
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Credit: Highgloss
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Credit: Highgloss
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Pitch 2 5.2 Mud
Pitch 2 5.2 Mud
Credit: Highgloss
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Credit: Highgloss
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Rappelling, 1 70m not recommended
Rappelling, 1 70m not recommended
Credit: Highgloss
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Highgloss 		About the Author
Highgloss is a trad climber from San Francisco, CA.

Comments
Tom Patterson

Trad climber
Seattle
  Feb 22, 2016 - 06:48pm PT
Thanks, highgloss. I used to live in that general area, and am surprised by the amount of moss. Is that typical for Consumnes?
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
  Feb 22, 2016 - 07:01pm PT
Nice taking advantage of the beauty around us! Thanks for sharing! I'm going to check out our river for climbs!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Feb 22, 2016 - 07:09pm PT
Dinkum crack was my first rock climbing flailathon! Than my first redpointed 5.9. After my friend made me lead it...haha
That place is a bit special for me. Thanks for sharing. :)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Feb 22, 2016 - 07:11pm PT
Cosumnes doesn't get enough props. For an otherwise rock anemic Sacramento area, it adds some nice value.
dwell

climber
Pollock Pines
  Feb 26, 2016 - 08:18am PT
I've been local and climbing at Cosumnes for 30 years during the late winter to early spring. Always loved the ease of a workout and the beauty of the place on a warm winter day.
Unfortunately the place is getting trashed: Yahoos, boom boxes, a bit of graffiti, permit free group use, and all the hard stuff with a few exceptions is growing mossy.
Hard slab smearing is mostly a lost art here. In the past plenty of brushwork was used to clean sections, but these climbers have moved on or aged.
As to the dome, is has a few good sections, but is low angle and again, low usage. Trout fishing is good, as are the Cotrell routes under the arch, but I find it best to just run laps on the best cracks. It is Yosemite quality granite after all.
Highgloss

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 22, 2016 - 07:27pm PT
Test Piece and Dinkums are totally worth the drive! Its a great place to practice aiding and natural anchors too!

I wish the gutenberger were a little cleaner, some of the stuff to the left looks like it would be decent if it were not for all the moss.
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
  Feb 23, 2016 - 01:06pm PT
In wetter years, there was always a lot of moss and lichen on the dome.
That was 0.5 of the fun was discovering what was under the variously sized chunks of moss and lichen. Many time, big smile: nubbin. Other times, sad face; nothing.
Just need to take a wire paint brush and slow yer mind down, clean as you go. Of course, now those old bolts on Grandpappy, River Daughter and Grizzly Green need replacing from the 1/4" originals.
And all those minerals crunching between your teeth as you scrub away...good for ya!
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Feb 24, 2016 - 07:58pm PT
Ok - I'm ready to climb here! Thanks for posting!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Feb 24, 2016 - 08:25pm PT
I thought it was spelled Cosumnes . . . any thoughts?
Highgloss

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Author's Reply  Feb 24, 2016 - 08:35pm PT
Im quite positive you are right!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Feb 24, 2016 - 08:40pm PT
Awesome TR! I was fortunate enough to climb at Cosumnes many times in the early 80's and it is great to see the place again through your eyes.
john hansen

climber
  Feb 24, 2016 - 09:12pm PT
My friend sent me up Dinkum for my first lead , quite spicy.

The shot above shows a right leaning crack over to the right.

One time me and John Mough went over there during a huge rain storm in 1986 or so. There is a thin crack that goes up from that slanting five seven lie back on the right.

We aided it with micro stoppers and a knife blade or two, taking turns up the thirty foot slightly overhanging wall, practicing aid.

The river was going off. Think it rained 10 inches that day.

I always wondered if that line was ever climbed again, aid or free.
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
  Feb 25, 2016 - 09:25am PT
A long time ago Holmesy and I were down there and when we came back to his old Travelall, someone had stolen the battery out of it! Geez.

I still like the place a lot. Whenever we get out there, I always go spend some time soloing around, as much as I can gimp up anymore, and just sitting there listening to the river. I met Mescalito down there once, back when I was a lot more open to those things. He lived down the canyon farther and I fancy he is still there. I sure hope so.

But, yes, I never leave anything visible in the car.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Feb 25, 2016 - 10:10am PT
A great spot! Lots of memories: My wife took at 15 foot lead fall on Dinkum, believe it or not. Scared myself soloing Unconquerable. Met a guy who made himself 2" shorter soloing the arete to the L of Unconquerable. FINALLY managed to climb 10 min. crack! Eventually, it felt easy, then it got hard again. WTF! Lots of trips from Davis, in the rain, hoping to find some dry rock, only to end up in a drizzle.
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