Trip Report
Costa Blanca, Spain: Penon de Ifach
Monday March 28, 2016 8:04am
Costa Blanca, Spain Holiday with Rock and Sun (RockAndSun.com)

I wanted to climb in Europe but didn't know how I would manage with my lack of foreign language skills. I found a book: Rock Climbing Europe by Stewart M Green and read that there are climbing tour agencies in England. Well that would solve the language problem so I searched the internet and found Rock and Sun (RockAndSun.com). This agency schedules climbing holidays in Spain, France, Italy, Greece, Thailand, Morocco, and Malta. Best of all the package included seven nights stay in their villa, five days climbing with a guide, and transportation from the airport and to the craigs all for a thousand dollars. I scheduled a Costa Blanca holiday in sunny Spain.
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Credit: Rockrob
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From the villa I first saw Penon de Ifach a mass of rock that calls "climb me". After a few days of technique training on sports routs the directors of Rock and Sun, Trevor Massiah and Desiree Verbeek, decided to take me to the Penon for the climb Via Valencianos with eight pitches.
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Credit: Rockrob
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Via Valencianos (5.9) is an moderate classic up a big dihedral and slab on the west side.
From the beach sidewalk we had a ten minute scrambled up a rocky slope to below the face with dihedral on the right.
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Credit: Rockrob
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Pitch one: 35 m
We climbed steep slab and easy rock to a spacious ledge
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Credit: Rockrob
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Pitch 2: 45m
After a four meter traverse left over a bushy ledge we climbed a rib and crack to belay above pitch 1. There was plenty of spots to place nuts and use natural features for protection.
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Credit: Rockrob
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Pitch 3: 15m
We climbed easy rock up to a terrace below a big dihedral. We divided the published pitch 3 into two pitched.
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Credit: Rockrob
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Pitch 3.5: 20m
This is the 5.9 pitch. On the right side we worked up the polished crack by stemming to a jug. Trevor placed slings which I confess using to french my way up.
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Credit: Rockrob
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Pitch 4: 20m
We moved left across the lower slab to a bushy belay stance.
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Pitch 5: 30m
We climbed directly up center of a great slab to the ridge line with a spectacular surprise view of the city and harbor below.
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Credit: Rockrob
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Pitch 6: 30m
We walked along the exposed ridge then climbed over a bulge with good holds. This was a fun pitch because of the variety of climbing.
Pitch 7: 20m
We climbed and scrambled to an exposed notch and belay.
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Credit: Rockrob
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Pitch 8: 30m
We crambled to the top and walked off.
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Credit: Rockrob
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I love Yosemite crows but this guy was special too.
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Most people return from a foreign trip with memories and a bottle of booze but for me it was different. I came back with more balanced and efficient climbing technique. Whereas some guided sports sessions turn into guides yelling beta, the Rock and Sun guides took a different approach. These guides instructed in principals: reading routes, subtle weight shifts, footwork, pressing with both legs, and releasing pressure on the hands. These principals are not new but after watching me climb they offered subtle movement changes to greatly improve my balance and reduce effort.

Yes, I returned with memories too.
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Credit: Rockrob
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Respectfully submitted
A Rick Robson age 71
Newark, Delaware

  Trip Report Views: 2,915
Rockrob
About the Author
Rockrob is a trad climber from Newark, DE.

Comments
couchmaster

climber
  Mar 28, 2016 - 08:09am PT


Great trip report Rob. That seems like a very decent price for a climbing vacation, and it looks awesome there!

ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
  Mar 28, 2016 - 08:29am PT
The Penon is a worthwhile outing. We did a route in '93 on it called Polvos Magicos (6b) somewhere near your route. It finishes up a very long arching left-facing dihedral. Unfortunately your photos don't capture some of the clean exposed climbing on the Penon and mine are not available.

Descent is through the tunnel carved for summit access. Lots of good limestone nearby. Mascarat just to the south is cleaner more karsted rock. We did a multi-pitch route on it that climbs above the train tunnel. Got to watch the trains rush into the wall below while we climbed.

Super area in many ways.

Thanks
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
  Mar 28, 2016 - 10:00am PT
The Penon is a great cliff, with something for everyone, well done for doing something different.

I did this with my wife a couple of years ago. It is sort of a classic..... Though the polished crack is much harder than anything else on the route and unbalances what would otherwise be an adventuresome romp through rock, vegetation and some bird muck.

We were met at the top by the usual throng of walkers, feral cats and wary (and large) seagulls.

A fantastic sunset followed on the walk down. But that's pretty common there. I'm off to Spain again in a few days, obligatory winter sun for pale Brit climbers!

Regards,

Steve

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Mar 28, 2016 - 10:14am PT
Looks like a great adventure,
I have always loved Spain ,
Did you get to climb anything else?
I'd love to see pictures from any other routes too :)
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Mar 28, 2016 - 10:23am PT

Well done, 71 and still going strong...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Mar 28, 2016 - 11:06am PT
Beautiful photos, thanks for sharing.
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Mar 31, 2016 - 02:30pm PT
#jealous

Why can't I have a big rock like that sticking out of the edge of my hometown?
labrat

Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
  Mar 31, 2016 - 02:37pm PT
Nice! Thanks for the trip report. Love Spain
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Mar 31, 2016 - 03:36pm PT
Climbed that very route m'self a few years back. Fun!

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