JULY 24 completed an ascent of West Ridge of Conness. Before our trip, I was looking for info regarding the approach…couldn't find any recent info. So for those of you looking or wondering: tons of snow, but you knew that.
More specifically, the upper section of the "X-country" section (leaving the Carnegie Institute) below the waterfall/cliff section is totally snowed in.
Options include staying wide right of the cliffs and then traversing across the top of the cliffs climber's right to left. OR picking your way up the center of the waterfall/cliffy section moving from climber's right to left. This is how we descended this section. Steep and a bit committing at times, but do-able. We did not attempt to do the suggested approach on this section--climbing the weakness on the left-side of the cliffs. This section was covered in what looked to be STEEP snow. So, option three--bring ice axes and crampons!
The next section, after the cliffy section, is a monster snow field that leads up to "the Notch". The snowfield is totally sun-cupped from a few inches deep to 18" deep--firm enough to walk on in the a.m. and soft enough to launch down or glissade in the p.m. Very little post-holing. We walked up the sun-cups to gain the East Ridge to the Notch to the summit plateau.
There was snow in the down climb gully but it was passable. A small snowfield on the summit down climb, but a small section of 3rd-class rock is passable on both sides of it.
All in all, snowy but definitely do-able. We hike in our approach shoes--no crampons, no gaiters (they would not help much), no mountaineers boots. That said, we were wet the entire day. We did each carry a trekking pole--very helpful.
Weather was perfect, climb was outstanding. We were not the only people to have the idea to do it. There were at least three OTHER parties on the West Ridge and at least two on the North Ridge.