Trip Report
Cochise Part III, GeezerFest, 2013
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Sunday November 3, 2013 2:51pm
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It was Farland, Doug McDonald's friend who coined the phrase, while we were on yet another hike. "There's BeanFest and SushiFest, but this is more like GeezerFest."
I immediately said, "I'm gonna use that!"
I don't even know what the combined age or climbing experience was, for a camp of only ten people, it's too much math, heh heh...
We ended up with Myself, My old military pal Buggs (BLT), Doug M., Farland F., Lindi McIlwaine, Donini, Jay Smith, Jefe, Leggs, and Jeremy. What a blast!
Why does the ground have to be so damn hard there? Is the dirt harder at the Stronghold than other places?!!? I was not alone in a lack of sleep on some nights.
The "Knob" tower above our camp. BLT and I hiked/scrambled and climbed up there after we first set up camp.
 Visit on photobucket.com
The idea was simple enough. I have climbed out of two or three man camps for many years. Normally it's the simplest and most efficient way to get stuff done. But part of me has always missed the old Camp IV days. I just never missed those folks that you DIDN'T want hanging around your site!
So I decided why not have a bigger camp, but just people I wanted to hang out with? The first annual GeezerFest was being born.
There were a few of you who were invited and couldn't make it for one reason or another. Previous commitments, lackamoney, and extreme distance were common. Yes David, it's a long damn way from Seattle to Tombstone!
Looking further afield from "The Knob"
 Visit on photobucket.com
Please forgive me for excessive playing with the toys on my camera, some of you have teased me about it already. But it's my camera, and my sense of fun, so suck it up team!
The Brave Little Toaster, pitch 2, Ewephoria.
 Visit on photobucket.com
It was the trip of broken stuff. Broken chairs, malfunctioning stove, truck stereo, camera issues, etc. We had it all!!
Survival on Ewephoria.
 Visit on photobucket.com
Looking Northish from Sheepshead.
 Visit on photobucket.com
Ewephoria
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My little armored friend.
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Ewephoria
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Obligatory Moon shot.
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A picture of Donini taking a picture.
Our camp is in the trees below.
 Visit on photobucket.com
Buggs brought me some New Mexico cutlery, since I flew.
The saddle under the Knob.
 Visit on photobucket.com
Lindi above, Jeremy and Buggs below, Cochise Dome
Doug leading on Mystery Of The Desert.
Sky hole!!
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Buggs, thinking it over.
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The Knob, from camp.
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Back in a bit!
I hope a few folks will include a few of their shots too, although a couple aren't even Tacos. Actually, I hope Jay Smith will send me a few I can share, since I think he is orders of magnitude beyond me as a photographer.
I hope I have Farlands permission to prove that I followed a 5.11 pitch!
Hardest single pitch I've done in quite a while, even though I had to hang once....damn, I thought I was gonna pull through too!
survival
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About the Author
survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme. |
Comments
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Nice! More?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sorry I couldn't make it for this one Bruce -- while you were hanging out with the A-team I was wearing a suit and hanging out with a bunch of aviation finance guys. Sort of the same age profile, but not as much fun as your crowd.
Next time for sure.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Thanks Bruce, I have always wanted to climb there.
I need to make the trip to the stronghold for sure!!!!!
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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A lot of food for a climber's imagination... TFPU!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 3, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
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Thanks for the input gang.
Yes Brandon, there's lots more coming!
My problem was that I used up so much of my battery taking scenery on the first couple days that I was milking my camera by the time the actual climbing started!
Ghost, wish you would've been there too.
Should we have an age cut-off? HA! Jeremy, Jefe and Leggs were a little young.....
Group shot!!
The only difference is that Buggs and Leggs switched out as the shooter.
Donini on Whale Dome with me and BLT.
Lindi up high on Cochise Dome.
Top of Sheepshead.
Stonewoman? No, Baby Junior....
Lindi and her twin.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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I think this was a Neil Diamond song.
tuckered
I took the boyz to Furrs Cafeteria for the early bird special,
then it was back to my house and asleep by 8.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jefe looks like some sort of muppet in the second group photo!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 3, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
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Neil Diamond?!? Curse you Br'er rabbit!!
BLT and Donini on top of Whale Dome, WIND!!!
Me on Moby Dick.
Too much fun.....
What the heck is this??? (Actually I know.)
The place makes your imagination run wild, and if you have toys, WOW!
Can you see the stone man sitting there?
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perswig
climber
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Sweeeet scene, gang, pics.
The only difference is that Buggs and Leggs switched out as the shooter.
One vote for keeping Buggs the photog (hmmm, wonder why?)
What's the story with that spoon, Survival?
Dale
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
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A Neil Diamond song... hahahahhaa. Perhaps I DIDN'T leave too early that night.
:)
Great photos and TR, Survival... So happy you had a kick ass week.
It was fantastic to meet some fellow Taco heads too!
~peace
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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great pix!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Looks like fun Survival! Thanks for all the fun photos too!
Gezzerfest! I love that word. However! Apparently other great minds have also thought of it.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 3, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
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A mini dome with a bad hair day!
Survival with too much rack....as usual.
Leading on Mystery Of The Desert.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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I LOVE geezer fun...having youngins along is good for motivation....but that sure didn't seem necessary as the geezers were rock in'. Wonderful pictures, and fun with doing weird things with some of them.
Fun read and viewing.
Susan
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Great TR! I'm in Flagstaff having survived Cochise, Granite Mtn. and Sedona. Great time at the Stronghold! Tell Buggs that I ended up with his fork....I owe him.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Ewephoria - Baaaaa!
Them's some spry lookin' geezers.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 3, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
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Thanks Jim! I will inform Sir Buggs, or he will read it here.
Jim, throw some pix on here when you get a chance, and if you feel like it.
Dale the story on that spoon is it is very old NM Indian make.
The swastika was a very interesting touch. They have been used by native people in many places for a very long time, but in this case probably means that the spoon was made before WWII, since it became less popular with Natives after that.
Doug, Mystery Of The Desert. Thanks for the tip Jefe!!
Those are some badass dikes around there eh? Those things are huge!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Survival! Thanks again for posting up all those photos. I do like the "artsy" ones.
This "artsy" one is my favorite!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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So jealous! Warm(?) dry granite an estimable crowd.
tfpu.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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All them all-stars and I missed it?????
HOOORAY for the BLT!!!
HI Bugs!
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RyanD
climber
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This is radical survival. Looks like a blast with a killer crew. Thanks!
What's the season @ Cochise? Where would one fly into & rent a car??
Stone looks quality.
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skywalker
climber
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I almost went there a loooooong time ago. Actually like 20 years ago but went to Mt. Lemon(?) instead. Never heard of the place at the time; bummer. On my secret list. Looks so magical...Thanks!
S...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Wow Lindi too?!
How cool!
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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Why does Doug look like he's wearing Farland's shorts? Sounds like a nice GeezerFest and from the photos, looks like another beautiful trip has been had at Cochise. GeezerFest 2013 makes history!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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I love Cochise.
Thanks for posting,. FABULOUS pictures!
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Somebody needs to put some food on that fork Jim ended up with...
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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The good life.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 4, 2013 - 10:14am PT
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Susan, those shorts are not the worst of Farland's clothes Doug was wearing....HA HA HA hahaaa!!
Somebody needs to put some food on that fork Jim ended up with...
No sh#t eh? Good one!
Ryan, I've only been there in Oct, Nov, and January.
October was by far the best for me so far. I imagine late Feb could be pretty good too. Fly into Tucson and rent a car.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Looks like another good time at Cochise, miss that place
Thanks for the great photos and TR
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You put "WIND!!" in the caption to your shot of JD and the BLT on top of Whale Dome.
We had 5,000 mph wind when we topped out on that thing a couple of years ago. Made for an interesting rappel. As in: "Is there any chance whatsoever that our rope won't get caught on something when we pull it?"
I think that was the windiest rappel I've ever done.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 4, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
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Ghost, we had no wind until our last couple days there, and then WHOA! The wind wasn't bad until we got high on the route, and then Donini said "Let's get the hell out of here!" He was even making Patagonia jokes!
The rope got hung for he and Buggs both on the rap, one was a very light tag line. Thank the great spirit that it didn't get hung when we pulled them....
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BFK
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Great pics! TFPU. I really miss that place, I would love to drag some the OW specialists I've met while living in CA and get on Abracadaver. It'd be interesting to see how it compares to valley OW...
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Great TR Survival, looks like you guys had a perfect time. I gotta go to Cochise sometime.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 4, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
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My Mojo pile for the trip:
*The Raven represents my father, who has visited me in some really stressful places, since he passed away in 1990.
* The jump wings are the "blood wings" my dad pounded into my chest at the Air Force Academy Free fall school in 1984.
* The bracelet is a power piece that Jill found after looking for years after my first great bracelet was stolen.
I guess they worked!!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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So tell us about the climbs you did...
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 5, 2013 - 11:45am PT
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OK Jefe. I will list some routes from the whole team, rather than just what Toaster and I did.
I will add some of our Cochise Speak to it as well.
Sheepshead Area
*Ewephoria- 5 pitches- 5.8- 5.10 the way I finished it, don't ask....
(Bruce, Buggs)
*Unknown, 15 feet left of Peacemaker- 6 pitches- 5.10a/b
(Donini, Jay)
*Mystery Of The Desert- 6 pitches- 5.9
(Bruce, Doug)
*Half Of Mystery Of The Desert
(Bruce, Jeremy)
*Two 5.11 multi-pitch on the right side of Muttonhead
(Doug, Jay)
*Unknown one pitch routes at the base of Muttonhead 5.9-10b
(Donini, Buggs, Lindi, Farland)
Isle Of Ewe
*OK Corral- 5.8
(Bruce, Buggs)
*Isle Of You- 5.9 my ass....
(Bruce, Doug)
*Stonewoman- 5.10a
(Bruce, Lindi)
*Baby Junior- 5.8+
(Bruce, Lindi, Buggs)
*Baby Junior Gets Spanked- 5.6
(Lindi, Farland, Buggs)
*Unknown, right side- 5.9
(Doug, Farland, Lindi)
Rockfellow Group
*Endgame- 5 pitches- 5.10a
(Donini, Jay)
*Jimmywhakky- we only did the 1st pitch- 5.11a
(Doug, Bruce)
*Cochise Dome, Whats My Line, 4 pitches, 5.6- 3 separate parties
(Bruce, Lindi) (Jeremy, Buggs) (Doug, Farland)
Whale Dome
*Moby Dick- 5 pitches- 5.8
(Bruce, Buggs, Donini)
That's all I can think of right now. Here's a fun sunset pic to hold me over til I get my flippers on a couple of Jay Smith's....
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Looks like an awesome time was had by all.
Sorry we missed you guys at Granite Mountain, Jim. We had a couple nice days over the weekend, and even packed in a nice visit to the Granite Mountain Brewery Saturday night. Hope you enjoyed Said and Done/Reunion. One of the best link-ups there.
Greg
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 6, 2013 - 11:44am PT
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Greg, there was talk of you down there, and how Jim thought he would be linking up with you.
You and Geir's topos have been such a great help down there for many people, thanks.
Some of our trip "speak":
"Lay the Chub to it!!" (Buggs and I were teasing each other about being old and chubby)
"Sac up and Chub down!" (Doug when I told him there was a 30 ft run out on my radar)
"Ven da conditions ah right, you have to pull da triggah" (Us using Ueli speak from Annapurna)
Cap'n Pissgums is a route up at Rockfellow, and somehow Cap'n Pissgums became a team mascot:
"Cap'n Pissgums sez water's bad for you!"
"Cap'n Pissgums sez no pissing on the route!"
"Cap'n Pissgums sez you ain't gettin' younger and stronger, GET UP THERE!"
N.O.L.S. became N.O.B.S. (National Outdoor Butt-In School) after a group of them tried to move into our camp when there were already FIVE tents in place!
Donini on Whale Dome.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 7, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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Whale Dome from a distance. The drainage getting up there was so beautiful!
Cochise Dome
Rockfellow Dome
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Bump
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Wow! Amazing TR and photos.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Fantastic. Great photos
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 12, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
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Thanks again gang!
Lindi got the money shot of me!
Donini holding court with me and the BLT.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Nov 12, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
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BUMP
Steve
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 12, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
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Thanks Farland, for hitting me with a few pics of Doug and I on the 5.11. Doug, still cranking, after all these years.
Doug led, me in red. Farland sent these to my wife in DC, while we were still on the route!!
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Nov 12, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
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Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! My wife, our hound, and I are headed there after the first of the year. Can't wait!
BAd
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Nov 12, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
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Can't believe this is the first time I caught this TR. Nice work and great photos!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 20, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
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Thanks for adding a pic Blakey!
Feel free to add more if you like.
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Nov 25, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
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this stuff"s got me jones;en for a cosmic bandito reunion,,,lets talk,,,
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Nov 25, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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Sorry Mel, you gotta be able to climb outta your lounger, lead a little, and play more than three chords to be a Bandito, AND hang at Geezer-Fest....
BWA HA HA HA hahahahaaaa!!!!!!
C'mon bro, me and my cane are waitin' for ya!!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 25, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
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Wow, that is a lot of great photos! Next time you should join for Balch fest. What a fun group of people that was!
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C4/1971
Trad climber
Depends on the day...
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Climbed there in 1971 with the Tucson boys. What fun that place was....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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Dec 3, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
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Climbed there in 1971 with the Tucson boys. What fun that place was....
Do you mind sharing a story???
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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May 26, 2015 - 11:19am PT
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Shameless self bump for all you whiny "lost content" Mo Fo's.
Viva climbing!
Viva Cochise Stronghold!
Viva Geezerfest!
Viva Supertopo!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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May 26, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
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This is what it's all about innit it?
Supertopo and life.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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May 26, 2015 - 07:13pm PT
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Great stuff! First time I saw this, survival, and well, it proves once and for all you're one badass climber. But I guess us folks who sesh, already knew that.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 26, 2015 - 09:21pm PT
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Second time around: This really is THE BEST TRIP REPORT EVER
(note the unprecedented upper case!) I have to say that I like the TR even more since I tried to climbed there a in 2014. For those of you who haven't climbed in southern Arizona, the ratings are STIFF, and to see this crew who may have a year or more wear on the tires than I have, leading that sh#t from which I fled with tail between legs, I BOW DOWN! I do want as second chance, though.
Darwin
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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May 27, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
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Darwin, second chances are what life's all about. I've taken a few second chances myself.
But the ratings are still stiff the 2nd or 3rd time around. Trust me, I've done that too.
Yanqui and Fet, thanks you guys. That was a special trip for me on many levels!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Author's Reply
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May 28, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
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You have to go through a secret tunnel to get to this crag down there.
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