Trip Report
Champagne at 14,000 ft on Middle Palisade! - My last CA 14er
Tuesday September 27, 2016 11:15am
On 9-11-16 I finished my last California 14,000+ ft. mountain – Middle Palisade after a 14 year quest at age 62. Why did it take so long? largely due to long work hours in a high pressure Silicon Valley job – regret not going “dirt-bag’ 40 years ago. Lesson to all of you younger readers, start hiking/climbing earlier and don’t work so hard.

This summit was 2 weeks after summiting North Palisade and Polemonium in the same day with legendary guide Kurt Wedberg. That trip report is coming soon. This time no guide but our group had solid technical leaders Casey Flowe and his friend Jason.

3 years ago I had planned a Middle Pal. Summit trip with co-workers. Two days before we planned to depart, my son Matthew (26) died tragically in a small plane crash on 8-13-13 while working for PG&E and the group proceeded without me in his honor. My son was an avid slack-liner, boulderer and climber. While they didn’t summit, they made a valiant attempt.

2 years ago with James Kenworthy and Mark Melville we again attempted Middle Palisade. This time we hiked up to the edge of the Middle Palisade glacier near the bergschrund to find the Class 3 Secor Route. There was no evident class 3 route anywhere near where it was reported. Seems the Glacier has receded so much due to global warming that that route no longer is evident or class 3. During the search for the route, James Kenworthy actually ventured behind the bergschrund and under the glacier. We lost contact with him for 15 – 20 minutes and feared for the worst but he reappeared after an extensive route search.

James under the Glacier on prior attempt.
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Under MIddle Palisade Glacier - looking for the Secor Route
Under MIddle Palisade Glacier - looking for the Secor Route
Credit: mpmoody
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I gathered beta from several fellow hikers (including Julian Valdez and Sarah Daou Titan) that the red rocks route was the best option and recruited good friends Eric Peterson, Alex Rogers and Casey Flowe to join me. Casey invited Hillary and Jason from Fresno as well and we had a large team of 6 attempting to climb a steep chute notorious for rock fall.

We started off on the South Fork Big Pine Trail (4th time for me) on Saturday 9-10-16 at 9:07am after eating at Jack’s and driving from Bishop.

Trailhead – 7800 ft started at 9:07am
Willow Lake – 9600 ft
Brainerd Lake – 10,250 ft reached at 12:18pm
Finger Lake – 10,800 ft reached at 2:00pm
Middle Palisade – 14,019 ft.

We hiked past these amazing trees near Brainerd Lake
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Trees near Brainerd Lake
Trees near Brainerd Lake
Credit: mpmoody
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And finally reached Finger Lake by early afternoon to setup camp. Here’s a panorama of Finger Lake.
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Panorama of Finger Lake
Panorama of Finger Lake
Credit: mpmoody
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Here’s Eric Peterson setting up camp.
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Eric setting up camp at Finger Lake 9-10-16
Eric setting up camp at Finger Lake 9-10-16
Credit: mpmoody
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Casey with his ‘gotta do this’ face.
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Casey with game face on at Finger Lake
Casey with game face on at Finger Lake
Credit: mpmoody
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Weather report showed approx. 1 inch of snow arriving the next afternoon (summit day) so we knew an early start was critical.

On summit day (Sunday, the 15th anniversary of 9-11), we got up at 4:00am and were on the trail at 4:40am (just as another couple left Finger Lake camp via the right side of the lake), this time we headed to the left of Finger Lake instead of the usual/recommended right side. Casey and Alex had scouted the route the day before. This route is a little steeper in general however it has water and streams most of the way, unlike the classic route and we reached the base of the moraine before the other couple.

I was the slowest in the group at age 62 and after open heart surgery the year before to repair an aortic aneurysm and replace my aortic valve (genetic issue). Thanks to Casey and Alex for taking a couple pounds off my pack, I was still feeling effects from my double summit of North Pal and Polemonium in one day only 2 weeks before.

Here we’re treated to a nice sunrise at the base of the moraine.
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Sunrise after leaving Finger lake at 4:30 on way to Middle Palisade
Sunrise after leaving Finger lake at 4:30 on way to Middle Palisade
Credit: mpmoody
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Here’s Alex bounder hopping on the rocky moraine.
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Alex hopping boulders at Middle Palisade Morraine
Alex hopping boulders at Middle Palisade Morraine
Credit: mpmoody
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The beauty of the Red Rocks route is you don’t need to touch snow (no crampons, ice axe, etc.). It’s also non-technical, unless you get off route and if you don’t have 6 members in 1 party.

Here’s a view of the red rocks route with Casey in the foreground.
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Casey with Middle Pal red bank route in background
Casey with Middle Pal red bank route in background
Credit: mpmoody
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I took a Go Pro video of the Red Rocks Route here;
[Click to View YouTube Video]

View of the Middle Palisade Glacier from the chute
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Middle Palisade Glacier
Middle Palisade Glacier
Credit: mpmoody
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The route follows the moraine between the Middle Palisade and Norman Clyde Glaciers and bends to the right up through the very visible Red Rock section. This section is very steep and very loose, thus requiring full attention especially with a group of 6. Several times, we inadvertently knocked loose small rocks and yelled ‘ROCK’ accordingly.

Jason and Hillary were in the lead going up since they were not wearing helmets. They made the minor mistake of heading right up the chute and not left. Here’s a go pro video of this steep section:

[Click to View YouTube Video]

We ended up at the ridge between Norman Clyde and Middle Pal with a few hundred feet to traverse. 6 of us roped up on the same rope with Casey leading and placing gear that we slowly traversed – Jason cleaning the gear at the end of the rope. It took us an hour approx. to make the final push to the summit, reaching it by approx. 11am.

Video of the Traverse – airy and time consuming - Whoa. Somewhat thankful we did get off route to be able to traverse this section, exposure was stunning.
[Click to View YouTube Video]


The other couple had made up the time difference by staying left up the chute and summited just before we arrived. .
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Split Mtn. from Middle Palisade
Split Mtn. from Middle Palisade
Credit: mpmoody
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Middle Palisade Glacier
Middle Palisade Glacier
Credit: mpmoody
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I signed the register, dedicating the 14er mission to my wife Barbara and children Rob, Kim and Matthew.
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Register page from Summit of Middle Palisade
Register page from Summit of Middle Palisade
Credit: mpmoody
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Casey surprised all of us with a bottle of champagne he had carried all the way from the trailhead – AWESOME

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Casey opening bottle of Champagne on Middle Palisade summit to celebra...
Casey opening bottle of Champagne on Middle Palisade summit to celebrate my last Ca. 14er
Credit: mpmoody
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although......

Champagne + Exhaustion + 14,000 feet + Steep Descent = Trouble

So we went light on the champagne as I made a short speech about my 14 year mission and life’s trials and tribulation – losing a child – and recovering from heart surgery.

We were all aware of the weather reports for snow that afternoon and spent only 20 – 30 minutes on the summit. We made a descent straight down from the summit, which was less steep than the ascent route. Within 1 hour of summiting, it started to hail and snow as we made our way down the moraine and on to Finger Lake where the weather only a few miles away was clear and sunny. I suggested spending a second night at camp, but the consensus was to hike all the way back out and drive to Big Pine and get a meal and then a hotel room in Bishop. Alex and Casey once again took a few pounds off my pack to make faster time.

We drove home the next day 9-12-16 and caught an inspiring heart shaped cloud near Tioga Pass Gas Station that morphed into 2 birds (my opinion – what do you think?).
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Strange heart shaped cloud at Tioga Pass on way home
Strange heart shaped cloud at Tioga Pass on way home
Credit: mpmoody
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Clouds near Tioga Pass -  9-12-16
Clouds near Tioga Pass - 9-12-16
Credit: mpmoody
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Here’s a chronicle of my 14er Summits (not counting all the Palisade trips and Mt. Russell trips where I didn’t summit) including my subjective assessment of overall enjoyment factor and difficulty. Note Williamson difficulty factor based on the George Creek route, and Middle Palisade thrill factor based on getting off route and doing the ridge traverse.

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Credit: mpmoody
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Mike Moody
Alamo CA
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mpmoody
About the Author
mpmoody is a mountain climber from Alamo.

Comments
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
  Sep 27, 2016 - 11:18am PT
Great TR. Love the pics. You look familiar, maybe just too many years climbing in the same spots eh? Haha.

Kurt is good people. I remember seeing a slide show of his right out of high school, haha. The dude is a force.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Sep 27, 2016 - 11:42am PT
Bravo Old Chap!

Simply Champion!
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Sep 27, 2016 - 02:32pm PT
How times have changed. I climbed Middle Pal in 1980 via the standard third class route. We actually thought it was closer to class 2.
Congratulations on getting all fourteen.
i-b-goB

Big Wall climber
Nutty
  Sep 27, 2016 - 02:34pm PT
Way to go!
labrat

Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
  Sep 27, 2016 - 02:41pm PT
Nice! Great cloud photos. I see the heart and the birds.
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Sep 27, 2016 - 02:41pm PT
Congratulations, Mike!

Awesome accomplishment and fabulous TR.

And I agree...a heart and two birds. My Native American ancestors would say you were very blessed that day.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Sep 27, 2016 - 03:00pm PT
Thank you for the beautiful report.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Sep 27, 2016 - 03:12pm PT
Very nice. Glad you were able to complete your goal and honor your son.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 27, 2016 - 03:36pm PT
Way to get er done , in spite of your challenges !
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Sep 27, 2016 - 04:32pm PT
Middle Pal is a great peak, congrats
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Sep 27, 2016 - 05:30pm PT
Good job and a great report! Thanks for the inspiration.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Sep 27, 2016 - 05:55pm PT
That is a toast to a well lived and successful completion of the climbs Well done congratulations ! The roller coaster of life throws double lefts and hard rights in sets it seems. I'm glad you see and take hart in those clouds. Pearls of wisdom too!
Get after it when you are young,


Way to persevere !

bajaandy

climber
Escondido, CA
  Sep 27, 2016 - 06:04pm PT
NICE!! Congrats on all the 14ner summits! Way to stay the course, even in the face of the worst possible adversity. Kudos to you!
zBrown

Ice climber
  Sep 27, 2016 - 08:06pm PT
Congrats . I hear ya work wise. I don't read many of these, but yours is quite enjoyable.

Those Tioga clouds look suspiciously similar to the Brainerds.

Who knows

thetennisguy

Mountain climber
Yuba City, CA
  Sep 27, 2016 - 08:11pm PT
Great climb(s)! Congratulations and really enjoyed your videos.
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
  Sep 28, 2016 - 10:58pm PT
The real heroes are those who can show us the way to a fully open heart after great loss. Thank you for the between the lines TR. Many blessings to you.
mpmoody

Mountain climber
Alamo, CA
Author's Reply  Oct 10, 2016 - 08:19pm PT
Thanks for the feedback everyone. Burchey - Lee Vining awaits.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
  Oct 11, 2016 - 05:59am PT
Well done. Thanks for taking the time to share. Man, a whole lotta choss on those peaks, eh?

BAd
Captain...or Skully

climber
Boise, ID
  Oct 11, 2016 - 06:13am PT
Right on. Love the High Mountains......TFPU!!
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
  Oct 11, 2016 - 09:03am PT
Awesome!
Go