Brad McMillon and I nudged my van up the last rugged mile of dirt road ending our 8 hour drive from Ouray. We were now at the mouth of Sawtooth Canyon and just below iconic Notch Peak which rises, Sphinx like, out of the empty desert in Western Utah. The granite domes next to our campsite our home to a few one to six pitch climbs with potential for many more.
Our goal was the Book of Saturday, a 12 pitch 5.11- R route on the 1,500 ft. north face of Notch Peak. We had time that afternoon to carry our gear up to the base of the climb. At first glance it didn't look too far.
Two tough hours and 2,500 vertical feet later we were at the base of the route.
Coming back down to camp we were thankful for the via ferrata that had been put in to make the upper part of the approach possible.
We left camp the next day at 7:00 and were at the base of the climb at 9:00. Brad uncoiling the brand new and very stiff 6mm static rope we would use for the 10 double rope raps needed for the descent.
We combined the first two pitches which provided the technical crux with "comparatively" good rock and pro. The SPICE was still to come.
The next few pitches were a little run out and every hold had to be tested but progress was fast and the pucker factor minimal.
A little break at mid height just after a pineapple sized piece of limestone wizzed by inches from my face.
Pitches 6 to 10 had some somewhat serious climbing up to 10c with interesting run outs using dubious holds. Even the 5.8 and 5.9 pitches needed a cautious approach.
The penultimate pitch, only rated 5.10b, proved to be the most "interesting" part of the climb. The description sucked and so did the pro. Brad used an additional 45 minutes trying to locate the two bolts protecting the upper half of the pitch. They proved to be off to the right and around the corner- NOT what our topo indicated.
I led the last pitch and we topped out at 4:30.
Brad found the summit register which indicated that we were the 54th party to do the route, 4 a year just about what I would expect.
I had the only camera so this is the only photo of yours truly.
The raps went well and we arrived back in camp just as the sun was setting on a perfect early september day. If you want solitude, spice and beauty- this is the climb for you. If you want perfect rock and good pro....hmmmm...there are plenty of other climbs out there.